tonyshouse

Run a couple of miles away from d&d

Blow greasy yuk outside, use a good non return flap or actuated valve, I don’t like grease or greasy steam in my MVHR

Carpet on the stairs for me

Solid construction helps, if not rockwool batts, four layers of plasterboardvan walls all different thicknesses, double tack ceilings never had creaky floors used ringshank gun nails joists mustn't move pipes wrapped through joists,no unsupported ends of boards no air paths, no back to back sockets or light switches, no downlighers use acoustic sealants, restrict sound going over/under/round walls

And in Canada where it is regularly way below freezing

In Canada when they design heat pump systems they don’t aim for 100% heating requirement but leave a few of the coldest days each year slightly short on heat as the capital cost outweighs the benefit and some direct electric heating is used to top up on those days

One tile got deformed on the bottom edge during manufacture, should not have been used, won’t leak though

I would join the air barrier in the wall to the one in the floor on the warm side of the insulation hermetically. I like polythene as it also acts as a vapour barrier

A mate of mine in Wales did something similar using two cheap bathroom fans and 50m of duct, the air does not need to move very fast

There is not as much useful heat in the air as you think, temperature and heat are different. try it and see is my advice without making the holes

150mm plastic, outlet reduced to 65mm down pipe

If it is a party wall then the Party Wall Act applies. If he does work to the wall he needs to give you written notice. In removing the render he has breached the party wall act and is now liable. I don’t see what difference it makes whether it is a solid wall, cavity wall or a poured concrete wall.

Best idea is to get a party wall surveyor to advise. I would avoid a dispute if at all possible get a friend to talk to him and mediate if you want to go in hard issue a ‘Party Wall Act’ breach notice! He has contravened the Party Wall Act and is now liable to pay your costs and reinstate the wall.

More than you think 🙂 i cheat and for a 600deep hole I prop the post in a perfect position on a string line at the right height then fill to 150mm deep with concrete and ram then fill with arisings a further 200mmamd ram then more concrete to within 50mm of surface and ram and flaunch , makes them easier to get out again.

Veissmann boiler if you must have one

I prefer insulation to heating 🙂 no ongoing costs what are your U-values?

Limecrete floor, limewash or lime render the walls, linseed oil the floor limewash with egg whites in it for the walls. Damp should move down not up unless the water table is very high.

Both especially irksome for new build snagging but the cracking is ongoing even from doors slamming thermal movements, jumping up and down some go unnoticed being behind dry lining causing additional air infiltration

Not just the blocks, the cavity, cavity insulation,plaster, outside skin I stopped using aircrete in the 1980s as it cracks too easily

washed sand, sharp sand is often too course, screeding sand is nice, key is to use a washed sand

Yes, most likely tripping from the backs of the tiles

Try Jeld-Wen

Way more likely to be condensation this time of the year

Metal caping is a good idea, ensure all water drips and flows towards the tiled roof. It also should protect what is there and any defects won’t get worse.

I don’t like acrow at an angle