tonyshouse

A few comments, yes the brick wall will continue to pick up condensation but only in very cold weather. I would use sheet insulation packed off the bricks by 25mm with say 25mm EPS then insulate as you plan , a full layer of 50mm would work best I think. a vapour barrier is totally crucial ON THE WARM SIDE OF THE INSULATION. bit advanced but I worry about this https://readinguk.org/draughtbusters/lead-pumping/

Unwanted convection, a check valve will stop it I hope

Tiny amount of smear in threads on rad, 10 turns of PTFE Over three three tiny smears on the threads of the tail, keep PTFE nice and tight. Once done not full pressure for 48 hours why do you nee 2 bar?

Tee hinges work if bolted on

Extend the slab by 75mm then thermal break . I would use slot box in place of gutter

There is a section on the DraughtBusters website that might be of interest and helpful https://readinguk.org/draughtbusters/going-further/dot-and-dab/

My MVHR sucks air to outside and heat exchanges it heat into the fresh incoming air stream so cannot se a reason to have a uv thingy. further uv will add trace amounts of harmful ozone

http://tonyshouse.readinguk.org/mitigation-of-thermal-bridging/#more-247

NO! In the illustration it is only possible to have a maximum of 95mm over the corner of the wall plate. I have 400mm in that location ?

Go 3g - I went for the best, was expensive but proving to be an excellent choice ?

I generally advise a building physics model of the house, this has generally informed additional shading, reducing the size of dangerous west facing glazing. will tell you exact heating demand and how much overheating you will get, I used TAS and paid but a good friend ran the excellent Hot 2000 a Canadian open source programme now hot 3000 I think, will help and both my models informed no formal heating needed, max heat demand for whole house 100W in October, maximum on coldest night etc all very useful

Just do it

Don’t use tiles unless on a failsafe underliner, I like semi non slip welded vinyl coved and turned up wall behind waterproof layer = fail safe and whole floor can’t leak

I have loads of pics of snow and frost on roofs, there are lots of variables but some useful information can be gathered

Technically and this is a throwback to the 1960’s it should be vented with an air brick, I am finding that it is ok to fill with insulation to above loft insulation level and vent from there up works near 100% with internal wall chimneys, external wall ones are more risky but I haven’t seen any problems and less likely to have them than with chimney balloons of which there are lots with no reported problems

If it was mine I would take a birch out of the flue 500mm upon the loft, brick up bottom , pour eps beads in f Tom the loft up to the level of the appeture , cap and vent the top and hope it will be ok. I like lime pointing,makes all the difference or I get an old pillow and put inside two black sacks and shove it up a bit

Is it on an outside wall ?

Nice, how long is the 35mm pipe run? can you do a flow test on the installed pipe work. Basically open a tap for 90 secs, while running shove bucket under it and time to full gives flow rate , volume of bucket/time = l/s

I don’t see the softener as the limiting factor, noses, taps and elbows will all slow flow so use 22mm full bore isolators 28 or 22mm short as pos hoses or plumb in with 28mm tube what size is the mains and distribution pipe work

Twin cylinder, first or last for me, if you need more flow get two in parallel

3g deffo, Ali clad favourite

I am hoping for a couple of hundred years out of my Ali clad ones ?

1:40 min

Plaster drying out depends on ventilation to remove the moisture and temperature, so heating on windows open til no condensation on the windows in the morning when closed running your ventilation system will help a lot too

Need to be sure that plaster has dried out before painting and even then best use non vinyl ie Supermat contract emulsion suitable for new plaster. I like paint before screwing up ot before fitting electrics, there will be some touching up, sweep up and hoover well before you start , pole sander with worn out sanding sheet before and between coats