Carrerahill

I love that your reply is only in response to the throwaway comment about stored hot water! Not the oodles of advice and answers to your question...

Sorted. If you order it etc. let me know how you get on as I am shopping about for one too.

This will take some meter readings to get your real life costs and work out which is cheaper. Gas (assume gas boiler?) is far more efficient for heating than electric. Let's say the boiler is using a unit of gas per heating cycle at 3-4p and the immersion heater takes maybe an hour at 3kW at 12p an hour then you need to work out how often does the immersion come on i.e. would 1 hour at 3kW (36p lets say) heat you enough water for the average day? Or would it be better to blast the boiler a couple of times a day but it only costs a combined 24p? So how do you do this real life check. I would take both meter readings at say midnight tonight and again at midnight tomorrow using the gas boiler, then kill the boiler and switch to immersion and do a 24hr period meter read again - I would try and do it on a standard weekday and try and keep costs similar - so for example cooking a full roast with the oven on for 4 hours on one of the nights is going to give you a false reading. I don't know what your household is like and how many of you there are but another option is to wait until you can more or less control all the variables and try and replicate similar loads on the electric in particular each night. As for gas it's easy, you could probably do a day with only hot water and don't use gas for anything else so you know your gas consumption is only hot water. Another option is to take both readings today with gas boiler, and then take the readings again same time in 1 week and then switch to electric and then do another weeks readings - a weeks view would probably be more accurate and would account for variations in cooking habits etc. Another thing to bear in mind is that boilers like to be used, leaving a boiler off all summer can also lead to issues. I cycled my boiler last week for 10 mins just to get a flow through the system and actuate all the valves etc. We have a combi-boiler so the boiler is on demand and is in use everyday anyway but the CH circuits are not. I don't actually understand why anyone would install anything but a combi setup. The idea of stored hot water in this day and age seems madness.

Electric roller door with fob will be about £750.00 for that size.

Assuming the concrete oversite was laid properly, i.e on compacted sub base etc. then the additional weight will not be an issue, the additional weight will be nothing over that footprint. I would be looking very carefully at the existing concrete, you want to look for cracking, separation, sinking etc. if any of these exist then you should not start to add more weight without investigation works or taking precautions. So here are your options: If the oversite concrete looks undisturbed and in good condition then I would be happy to pour over site, don't let the new concrete touch the existing wall, create a expansion gap with thin (10mm) EPS or dense foam (you can buy rolls specifically for this) this will stop the new concrete potentially causing damage to the walls. I don't know what your current oversite has in terms of a DPC but if it is already sealed then you don't need to add any more, simply roughing up the old concrete surface, cleaning it, removing all dust will then give your new concrete something to bond to, alternatively you can use an agent to ensure good bonding. Then pour to required FFL. If there is no DPC (but what is stopping damp coming up into the floor area now anyway?) then I would be putting a DPC in much like you would when putting it over a new site ready for the dwarf walls to be flooded, again use a EPS or foam around the edges to minimise contact with the wall. Then pour. If the oversite concrete is showing signs of cracking, sinking etc. then I would cut out 350mm squares of the existing concrete every 1200-1500mm, and dig down till you reach compacted hardcore or if none, soil, repack properly, and pour strong piers with re-bar, your new concrete will then essentially sit on these piers, go for about a C35 and this concrete will then be self supporting on your new piers. You can do this pour all in one and I would strongly advise just getting the concrete delivered rather than mixing by yourself.

Can't you have the floor diamond polished?

2100 & 2400 are too low, in a room like that it will feel more like an attic conversion or something. I think 3000 would be your bare minimum, however I would still push for higher, even another 250mm would be good.

Nothing "professional" about CCTV wiring to be honest. A lot of trades will make you think there are secrets and special ways to try and make their trade seem more complicated and thus you pay them to do the job but not much complication about CCTV - this coming from someone who was involved in the CCTV electrical design for a major city! The most specified CCTV cable for commercial applications is still RG59 coaxial "shotgun". It is a robust cable and carries power too. Some "professionals" don't have the proper snap n'seal F connectors that crimp on and offer a waterproof connection because they won't buy the tool - decent one is £80. I bought one as I used it for my CCTV (planned) and RF distro and all my connections are now watertight and can even be pulled without coming apart. Some CCTV systems are CAT5/6 which does mean some local power most of the time but again nothing complex.

I am a consultant electrical engineer working in the construction industry, I deal with all sorts of building related issues (even non-electrical) and the thing I come across weekly is bloody electricians who think they know best. I think the issue with most of them, not all I hasten to add, but most, is that they don't have the imagination to foresee requirements such as data and signalling etc. I have a young chap who we use to do remedial work where the electrical contractor cannot be trusted to fix things properly. He will take instruction well so it works out, but he cannot understand why anyone would want lighting controls, he cannot understand why anyone would want data in every room, his reply, "I have wifi in my house, does my phone and my laptop" . I explain to him that I have a media/data server in my loft, I have lighting control, I have a network of laptops and PC's throughout the house, I have ability to have a landline phone in any and all rooms in the house (including the garage when it is done). I have 6 and 8 core cable running everywhere for wired TRV's etc. Only then he can begin to see why throwing all this extra cable in for such a small outlay is worth it. I hate and love wifi - but I would not have it in my house at all if it was not basically necessary for iPad's and things. I don't like wireless control, I like copper! I would say for your house as a bare minimum at least 2 maybe 4 at your TV area, 1 or 2 in the kitchen where you may want to temporarily plug in laptops or a phone, 1/2 in each bedroom, 1 the hall next to where tables or sideboards etc. may be located, more in offices or dens, some to the loft even if just coiled up for now, you may opt to put in NAS units or something up there. It may only be 100m of cable and 6/7 runs in your case. I would also make sure they are near power.

Hi All. I was speaking to the building control officer this morning and discussed altering the soil stack and relocating the waste stack on the back of the house so I do not need to have penetrations through my new extension roof. He agreed that I could take my main roof gutter water over the new roof (as long as I show the area and check the gutter pipe sizing tables etc.) he also agreed I could cut my soil stack low, take a 92.5° bend from above the T jct. where the WC is connected, run it along horizontally within the extension roof void and pop it out the wall rather than via the roof - that is easy and will mean just boxing out the pipe within the extension which is not a big deal. I MAY move it round the corner too but for now, that is the plan. So the next pipe to deal with is the 3 inch cast iron waste stack, as I can run gutter water over the new roof I can therefore take the waste stack down lock stock and barrel, this services the main gutter, bath and sink. Looking at the bathroom wastes and with some PB removed in the kitchen below it looks like I could run a piece of waste pipe between 2 floor joists, pickup the bath and sink and core through the wall and come out on the wall round the corner from where the waste currently exits - within about 750mm of this is the waste pipe from the kitchen, so some digging will soon reveal a pipe I can build a manhole onto and connect the new waste pipe. See sketch attached, yellow is existing, blue is proposed, NTS and just rough... I don't really want to add a 110mm stack down the side of the house, to catch a sink and a bath I think it is just excessive anyway, so I would like to use 82mm pipe, it doesn't appear that common and there are not many parts available for it but it looks like I can get all the bits I need. Plan would be, new 82mm waste pipe on the outside wall, then a T branch (if I need air admittance) or 92.5° deg bend through the wall, mortar that in, then push a stub of 82mm into that and then downsize the rest of the run with a 40mm to 82mm pushfit boss, I would also run the 40mm pipe further into the 82mm than needed so that it effectively just poured down the external pipe and reduces any likelihood of leaks from the boss in the future. How does this sound? This is simple and non invasive enough that I could do this little project almost immediately so I am not faffing about with pipes when trying to put up my timber kit. What are you guys doing for your external bath and sink wastes when not using 110mm? Most google hits show these huge ugly 110mm stacks... The other option being considered is move the soil stack round the corner (much more digging) and then tying in the toilet and the bath and sink into the one pipe, but that is another story.

In a word, yes. It won't cost you much for a drum or two - you only need to terminate if you decide to use! I have points that are not opened up, I know where the cable is and if I want to use it I simply get my padsaw out and fit a back-box and faceplate. Put in a good deal of home runs to a location you can have a patch panel and switch, ideally all your comms will run back to this same area, including TV, any controls etc. When I renovated my 1960's house I ran in CAT5E into every room, roughly 2 points per room. Ideal for printers (wifi printers are usually rubbish in my experience) and computers, media servers - (I like to limit wifi traffic in my house) I can patch phone in, I can use USB over network, I can patch in controls to things and I think it cost about £90 all in!

Found it! Well the name! Lomond RD852989 Not believed to be a Redland or a Russel, don't think it is a Marley although I have not called them yet to see if they did make it, roofing supplier thinks it was ScotCem who are now gone. At least if I can prove they are not made anymore then I can go similar in tile. I have also spoken to my architect who says use Major's and be done with it - so I am happy!

I think so. I will need to get my crowbar up there! I will go now if I can find my crowbar!

It doesn't really matter, this first lot are for my detached garage! As for the extension roof tiles it is only single story so it is a separate roof and with all the tree's and what not around the house it is actually difficult to stand in such an area as to see both roofs simultaneously as you would need to stand far enough back to see the main roof and extension roof which means you would be standing in dense hedge or tree's.

Statutory period is 8 weeks - so expect something less than that. Our council left me hanging till the 8th week and I called them to have a gentle prod. I had the head of planning dealing with me within minutes, apologising and basically saying she would put it through right away but neighbour notification had to go in first and we had to wait out the 14 day period. They agreed it in principle within about 1 day and had the planning officer out that week, we waited our 14 days and as soon as the neighbour notification period was over they called and said you're fine. JCB rolled in the following morning. So lesson learnt here: I would never let planning simply sit now, about a week after I submitted anything I would always check it has been assigned to a planning officer and I would make contact with them just so I know what is what. So really they should have it done in 5-7 I think is normal, which means they come in under the statutory period (13 weeks if it's like an office development!) - no mention for any other categories so regardless of your CatC listed status it is still just a planning app. Bear in mind the CatC stuff will just mean they adhere to a slightly stricter rule-book.

Anything else is simply laziness!

I tried. They are nailed every row and I did not have my trusty roofing crowbar to hand. I don't really want to pull a nail and remove one until absolutely necessary, so I was hoping that someone out there might recognise it.

Can anyone identify these? I have looked at about 1000 images and cannot see anything similar. I thought for a while they might be Marley Ludlow Majors or Redland 49's but I have decided these are too rounded for that, but I don't think they are Romans either. My guess on colour is brown or antique brown (basically brown!). Thanks

I have just read the install Velfac PDF (well quickly looked, i.e. within first pages the install plates are shown!). Top one is all about the plates, bottom on is general install guide. https://velfac.co.uk/domestic/technical/download-centre/10426,9679/installation-lug-v200-v200i-v200e-edge---dk https://velfac.co.uk/download_asset/23188/VELFAC Installation guide 05-2018_web.compressed.pdf

This is how it should look:

That's what it looks like to me, a good sprayed coat of paint - RAL9016 maybe? It makes me mad that some utter muppet comes along and lazily rams a screw through that nice woodwork!

This is in my opinion incorrect for this type of window. They should fit a plate or heavy builders band to the side of the windows, i.e. the side that is hard against the wall, the plate/band sits back about an inch or two into the room, you then offer the window up and then screw the plate/band to the window aperture. This also means when it comes to removing them in the future someone doesn't need to dig out filler. Alternatively, can the glazing be removed from these or are they factory fitted and made up? On standard UPVC units you can pop the beads, remove the glass and screw the frame in with the screws then hidden when you refit the glass - likewise with opening windows, you can often screw through the frame and the screws are only visible when the window is open which is not an issue as the open frames of windows are full of latches and levers and screws anyway so another screw won't detract. Another thing, are the windows in final paint? Or is that just a primer? If that is the finished paint then I would also not be pleased at some monkey rubbing a bit of filler into the holes and trying to match the exact colour and finish which from the image looks to be a sprayed finish, possibly a polyurethane paint which will have excellent durability and a bit of Dulux brilliant white will not look the same ever. I would NOT accept this and would have the installer replace the windows (at their cost) that they have butchered. It is just a total lack of thought.

Highland Sips Ltd. Perth. James Cook I think was the owners name - good guy.

Hi all, I am currently constructing a 30° pitched garage roof (this can be seen over on the garage build). Pretty simple design, 4 trusses, purlins and rafters over the purlins, 11mm OSB over the rafters, I have started sheeting it from the ridge down to within a half sheet of the bottom of the rafters where I will hold of until I confirm the next bits and pieces such as how big I want the overhang etc. So my next stages include boxing out the lookouts for the gable end overhangs, fit fascia boards etc. cut the rafters with a straight face to my required length to get the overhang I want etc. and obviously finish sheeting it up. So here are my questions: 1. Does the roofing sheet come down and over the top of the fascia board, with the roofing membrane running down over this joint and into the gutter, the tile then overhangs over the lot of it? 2. I was going to use a eaves guard, so following on from above, it must sot over the fascia board as it drips into the gutter - should I use these or is it not needed? 3. I note on images and roof I have seen being installed locally often a rooming batten is mounted at the very bottom of the rafter which the last tile sits on, is this correct and if so what about the increased gap it creates at the bottom - is this not a possible wind blown water issue? 4. On the gable ends I have a 200mm overhang, I have not sheeted right to the edge yet as the way it has been laid out in full sheets my cut sheets will go on last, do I take these up to the edge of the rafter or do I overlap the thickness of the barge boards? 5. Does the roofing membrane return down over the barge boards and assuming I use a painted wood or PVC barge board would I simply allow the membrane to come down the face of the board slightly then it will be dressed with a dry verge, so any water that gets under the tile will run down the roof or over to the end, down onto the barge board (behind the dry verge) and down causing no damage? Now lastly I need to order all my roofing materials, roofing is probably the one trade that I have never had to do, so although it is not rocket science I appreciate there are a lot of roofing supplies out there, from vented ridge systems and all sorts, I understand it is fairly simple and from the limited details available online I have pieced it all together but I just want to check my shopping list and not end up with incorrect things or things I don't need etc. On my list so far I need to order battens (I will use vertical and horizontal), tiles, ridge tiles a dry verge system and either wood to paint for my fascias and soffits or PVC stuff, I thought eaves protectors too. Is there anything else I should be considering? Does anyone else have a garage roof shopping list they could share with me? Last of all, does anyone have decent images of their roofing construction, I am looking for photos showing the rafter ends, gable ends and how these details are all formed up. Thanks

OK the roof truss design was finalised and I built 2 gable end trusses (slightly different design to mid trusses) and 2 mid trusses which sit 750mm apart centred on the middle of the garage, this creates fairly short purlin spans for the 6x2 purlins. All feels very solid so I am happy. I have 11mm OSB sheet ready for sheeting, I believe I am meant to leave a small gap in between the sheets to allow for some air movement and so the edges, if they get wet can breath but what do I do at the ridge? I did a google image search and saw various "methods" some seem to leave a fairly large gap, where the sheet maybe only comes to within 40mm of the apex and some where it looks like they more or less bring one sheet up on one side and butt the other up from the opposite. What have you guys done? I will then staple tyvek breathable roofing membrane on and get some battens (verticals for now) to ensure the membrane stays put until I can get my tiles chosen. Anyway, here we are as of now: