Carrerahill

Not really, the details posted by myself above were just to show the detail, you would rotate it to suit, so for example you take the top details and have the opening wall side. The detail above requires more distance and or a more diffuse source. For a uniform light without any hot spots or dull areas I'd always use the second bounce approach, in your detail (which I have yet to see used well anywhere frankly) the wall becomes the "reflector", not good. Have a look at this - note the washing to the centre core, this was done using the detail I posted originally.

Non-Corrosive LED battens. At my workshop end I wanted higher illuminance so I went for 2 x 4500Lm LED battens equally spaced across 2 purlins, at about 3.2m at the front where there will be less activities and daylight when the door is open I have a single 6000Lm batten at the ridge at about 4.2m. Works well and total power consumption is about 110W for good usable lighting - also being LED instant full brightness so ideal for flipping the light on for 30 seconds to get something and leave, something flo's hate in the cold and reduces lamp life and output significantly.

There are several ways to create the detail shown in the image. One common method we would specify is a builders detail, whereby a cover detail is creating by framing and plasterboarding it, it get plastered and essentially a ledge with an upstand is created where an LED product sits. Tape is the contractors friend but is not always the best option, stuff from the merchants and Screwfix and B&Q is pretty poor. I usually specify ridged LED profiles which come in 200mm to 10000mm and these sit into the "builders detail". Another way to do it is using a profile that gets plastered into the ceiling or a continuous light fitting. https://www.lightnet-group.com/en/product/matric-f1-ip54-342 https://arc-led.co.uk/plaster-in/897-arc-pbuw-plasterboard-flush-mounted-aluminium-led-profile.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwps75BRAcEiwAEiACMb52xzv6lGqe6O-jfx1aSE2yr8KNYtC8CseBOq4YkqObIgcYTWF62xoCZzYQAvD_BwE

The wall that it would mount to is nearly 3.8m up so it is well out of sight, the ceiling is totally void of anything, there is no lighting, nothing on it, the whole lighting is done by a single indirect light source which lights the whole kitchen. The plasterers knew that essentially the ceiling was going to be a big reflector and as such made an impeccably good job of it. To then site an alarm on it would stink - also, first fix is in and it's on the wall! To put it on the ceiling now I'd need to run it surface - so it gets even worse. I think I may just have found one! A Kidde unit.

The regs are fine, it's the products! I am in compliance with BS5389 - but if the product says no, then I know I will be falling foul - on something like this I am sure the BCO will also know this and I don't want the question or debate. I just want to be able to comply while doing it my way so I can show him the evidence that it is conforming.

Yes, what you have read and interpreted is the same as what I have found - as you see Aico say no to heat. If they could even explain why not then I'd listen but you cannot tell me no without a logical reason. He kept telling me that heat travels down the walls and cools, I explained to him that yes this was the wall, but it was within the peak of the ceiling, I don't think he actually understood me. Do you think what I am proposing is reasonable or do you think I am being silly? The mad thing is, if the wall it was to be mounted on had a pitch to it, it would satisfy the Aico installation instructions as it would no longer be a wall. As soon as the surface becomes 100% vertical, albeit it is so high really it is the peak and no cooling can take place, or if it does only very slightly, it no longer complies.

Just so there is no dubiety, this is what I want to do.

I knew it! He kept just quoting their siteing instructions, which I stated I had already read and understood but also pointed out their siteing instructions didn't actually mention my situation and I wanted clarification, he came back with another cheeky email. Do you have an email address or details of the clearly more intelligent Aico employee you go hold of? What is your exact situation - I will go and sketch what we have here for clarity.

That I get, in my line of work I understand that fully, it is also my job to design safe and compliant solutions to achieve the hopes and dreams of others. This little boy was just cheeky and arrogant and couldn't string together a coherent email to save himself. I did have one manufacturer go away and confirm with their US design office that it could be done but their type rating wasn't approved for wall use yet and until this was official they couldn't sell it as such. They also admitted that generally they say no to wall mounting, much like lockdown, to deal with the inept and those lacking in common sense, therefore you have a strategy aimed at "playing it safe". It is done with commercially designed systems often enough, I used to work in an office next to a team of fire engineers and stupidly lost touch over the years - we often had to include wiring spec within our specification and wall mounted heat detectors were used.

Basically wall mounting a heat alarm - we have a mono-pitched ceiling, rather than put it on the sloped ceiling within the prescribed distance from the apex (I think it was 150mm), I wish to mount it on the wall at 150mm from the peak but on the wall. We all know heat rises and in the event of a fire this top "triangle" of space is going to get rather hot fairly quickly, I see no reason why the thermistor type alarm would not work just fine on the wall within the apex area. The little boy on the other end of this email just kept repeating the same rubbish and wasn't willing to use his head and do some thinking. Looking at all the guidance and interpreting BS5839 it appears acceptable to mount a heat detector on a wall if certain criteria are met, I have spoken to some people and they have concurred with my thinking. 1 of three things will happen here: 1. I mount it on the wall where I want it, BCO rejects it and I move it to the ceiling, he checks it, he signs it all off and I move it back to the wall when he goes. 2. I mount it on the ceiling, BCO is happy, he leaves, he signs off and I move it to the wall. 3. I find a product that will go on the wall, with literature or an email or a design to back it up and the BCO accepts it because there is a piece of paper removing his liability!

We ended up filling 1 general and then getting in a brick/concrete only afterwards, which we also filled!

Well, its nearing the time I will have a BCO poking at all my hard work so I need some fire alarms for the new bits and altered rooms etc. I was looking at Aico but I am not happy with their customer support via email as the guy was frankly rude and clearly just reading from their own guides which I had already read, understood but still didn't answer my question. Having said that, I may get them anyway as I do believe they are good. I need a heat alarm for the kitchen and some smoke detectors, first fix is in (3 core and earth for power & interlink). I just want a reliable option for fair money. I have found some sets and some products but would be keen to hear from any of you who have recently bought some. Quite a lot of them also list mains mounting plates, surely the products come with everything in the box? Simplicity is my plan here! I want 4 alarms with everything I need in 4 boxes. End of. Suggestions appreciated.

I meant to add, I used this and it is still stuck to the wall, didn't go off quicker than usual and followed the usual sort of drying pattern - 2-3 days it's dry but "soft" then hardens up after about a week.

Looks good John. I did a post on Amtico at the beginning of the year, for me it was about dispelling the myth that it is a "specialist" fit only but I would say you need to have some good abilities at working with your hands and understand the process well. We are happy with it, been down since about late March now, there are a few marks on it already but you only see them if you look across the floor with your eyes near the floor scanning across, so I can live with that and having a building site the room over doesn't help! We will be continuing it across to the next room too. My experience of Amtico previous relates to a 28 year old floor that still looks good, I think the stuff is different now though. As with anything these days, little is made as well. What I need to do is clean the Ardex adhesive off some of the joints as I never did it at the time! I am thinking a light solvent of some sort will work but I will need to investigate on a sample before I go for it!

Good. We have managed to do our entire build, demo works, garden works, extension, garage etc. so far with no skip! Everything has gone to a friends farm for a bonfire or to the recycling centre in about 50 car loads over the 3 years, also a big hole in the garden came in handy for rubble, I call it the soakaway now! The binmen were also very handy, they took full lengths of timber fascia with gutters still attached to them right into the back of the truck, all the rendering waste too (mainly bags of hard render and swept up chippings) ! Years of talking to them and being generally nice paid off! Till this point I have also recycled loads of it so I feel good about the build, metals all went to the metal pile at the centre, rubble in the rubble dump for crushing, wooden pallets turned into log stores or if untreated wood burnt or reused to send things out on pallet. This is the final cleanup really.

Will ask driver what he thinks.

Good call. I agree reference the weight and ground conditions, but that will be OK, had heavier in here and the ground is very stable. I mentioned a brick garage going into the skip and the guy didn't say anything so I assume it will be fine - I will talk to the driver tomorrow and ask him, after all he is the one who does the lifting all day long and will know what his wagon can lift and will know if he has comfortably lifted a 8 yard skip full of rubble before.

Question to someone who has demolished a garage sized building and skipped it. I have an 8 yarder coming tomorrow, idea is to demolish the old garage into it, imperial commons with some render, the area of garage that is left (some went 3 years ago for the new garage to be built) is basically a gable wall and 2 side walls - no front at all - so we are looking at about a building of around 3x3.5m and 2.3m high, with the gable probably another good 300 bricks above the 2.3 height - will it fit in this skip do you think? I know in volume it should fit but in real life will it? Also want to chuck the old kitchen and floor into it.

Madness!

Developers never seem to have this issue which is galling!

Looking at it I would be tempted, in fact, it would probably have a major collapse about... now. It looks like @Imogen could bulldoze this and start out of the ground pretty quickly. Can we see some exterior photos please. As soon as you try and do "conservation" or "listed works", people just add a few ££ to the sign as they know they have you over the barrel. The way I see it I would ask for a Building Control officer to come to site and visit you, maybe see if they would come out with a planning officer too. Don't read this next bit if you just want the advice, but here is some very recent anecdotal evidence of how things go. On Saturday I started to take up the floor in parts of my original house, now the extension is done I am moving into getting the adjacent rooms all sorted out, the old kitchen, which will be a dining room had a hell of a T&G floorboard floor, full of holes and just a mess. Opted to remove this, taking care not to damage my brand new wiring and gas and water pipes etc. it took the best part of a day to remove it all, get the wood out the house, and start to make good. This was one small room, it was a horrible days work, it was filthy, it was dangerous and it was just not nice. The point here is that your WHOLE house needs this doing. Either you do it, in which case you are exposed to the danger and filth etc. or you pay someone, who will want paid acceptably to take on your dirty work. You could rent a 14ton digger for the weekend and sort this yourself!

Lack of water/nutrition causing that.

I did this last weekend! I am a competent DIY plumber, copper and solder for me (although I did have to bite the bullet and go plastic for a bit through floor joists in the old kitchen ceiling) not including the plumbing of the new extension which was done at first fix and finished as the kitchen was installed it took me about a day and couple of hours to relocate the stop-cock - by extending the incoming water pipe to the new kitchen, removing all plumbing from the old kitchen, which also meant totally re-plumbing the bathroom above for my super perfectionist requirements (basically I didn't want stop ends anywhere, I only wanted plumbing to exist that would function). It cost not a lot, but then I have heaps of copper solder fittings and things so just needed some copper pipe and some plastic and 4 JG Speedfit unions. If you can cope with plastic for everything then I reckon I could have done it all in a half day horsing it in. I had the new kitchen totally plumbed and pressure tested back in December, but didn't go live until about early June, so all I had to do really was get the tails of the new kitchen onto the rest of the house system. I am also lucky my house has a suspended timber floor, so access underneath for plumbing is no bother. Waste was easy for me as my extension had a new waste built into it - old one just needs taking down down from the outside and it will become a patio drain. This way you can work away at your leisure and get it all installed as you go then only bring it "online" when you are ready.

I'll have a look.

https://www.soundinsulationstore.co.uk/products/standard-resilient-bar?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9b_4BRCMARIsADMUIyo5H5MmUS1DtJMhk_iR3e6j_G5tnD8wji-IHWKL6IADy9aiw9k7peAaAgovEALw_wcB