Carrerahill

Unlucky, probably some know it all reporting him. I am all for a bit of DIY roadworks, as long as what is being done is done well, safely etc. I don't see why dropping some kerbs, if done well, is an issue. Given your friends trade I suspect he would have known exactly how to do it all properly and being his house he would have made sure, even more so, it was spot on. If I saw someone doing some sort of roadworks or alternations to pavements that was just going to end up in a potholed mess or dangerous I would probably speak up but not just because someone is trying to improve something that will have near enough no impact on anyone else.

Correct, we installed bollards on the pavement once to stop parking on the corner, 6 immediate neighbours all agreed to it and we also agreed to see or know nothing if ever questioned, we knew someone (friend of a neighbour) with a big white van with a yellow stripe down the side. Parked to obscure our work and wearing high vis jackets I cut a square into the pavement with a diamond disc while another neighbour broke it out and barrowed it away. Concrete bollards were set into some hardcore and Postcrete which gave it the initial hold then we back filled with a barrow of concrete with black dye in the last bit to make it look more like tar - once it all went off I drizzled roofing tar into the crack. No one ever said a thing!

Did this for a neighbour, we just did it. Took a Sthil saw to the kerb, cut into it and hammered the pieces out, ground smooth(ish) with a diamond disc. Basically it left a little ramped section, job done. Other option is just to put a piece of 2x6 against the kerb and bang it in with some 8 inch nails. No one is every going to say boo.

I would go and cut myself a pile of 5mm and 11mm ply spacers. Rip a piece to 6 inches then slice it into 1-3 inch pieces. A big pile of them will be great for sorting out all sorts. My brother had a real craftsman of a joiner working in his 1900's house a few years ago, while my brother was away for 2 weeks holiday I was to go in and check things were going OK - the first day I arrived to check I noted the guy had done a brilliant job of 12mm exterior ply lining all the wonky floors, what struck me was the massive pile of various thickness ply spacers he had cut for the next stages of the work. As I came in each day I noticed these perfect little packed out bits and all sorts using all his spacers he had cut. They were all equal size and very very neat. I did the same when I was renovating bits of our house and trying to fit square stuff into squint rooms!

Just buy a correctly rated proper power supply. I hate these kits from Ikea and the like because they sell them with inappropriate wallwart style PSU's which as you are finding are no good to hardwire in correctly. Most of these tapes are 24V - some domestic market ones are 12V - just work out the watts per meter, multiply up by your run length and that gives you the power, then get the right voltage to suit your LED's - so if you need 34.8W and 24V go find a 45W power supply or what not. I have used these guys a lot: https://www.sunpower-uk.com/product-category/led-lighting-power-supply/constant-voltage-led-drivers/ Only additional issue you have is your using RGB - you are going to need to control each channel separately to achieve the colours you want, so you will need to incorporate a little dimmer for those - you can also put each colour onto a separate power supply and use a 3G dimmer - 1 for each channel but that might get a bit clunky. I'd probably use a little LED colour scene controller or put it onto a Shelly controlled via my phone.

You get mains dimmable LED power supplies. Very common. Got a box of the 24V units in my loft.

I think have spent the better part of 2 weeks trying to get council departments to see reason and logic, however I have failed and it has left me in a highly judgmental mood! They have consulted us for advice, they don't like the advice, so decide to proceed how they think it should be done but want us to "design" it to their spec. Makes one a bit annoyed to say the least.

Yes.

I will have a go at the weekend. Thanks.

Do you think I need to score the base? Issue is, I cannot really move it to score the bottom...

I have this sandstone: What is the best way would you think to section it up into 4" blocks? My plan was to use a diamond disk to scribe round it, then just use a 4" bolster and split it off like you would split concrete block. They are to be used as a feature facing brick.

They are just ignorant. Get it spec'ed up properly and submit it, basically they are holding you back because they don't know. If they were smart, they would let you do it and learn. Typical public sector worker.

I prefer to do it one of 2 ways, proper brick back and pointed up, or use a cast insert piece. It looks like brick behind there, I would chip the render off and just redo the brick properly. It will look nicer. If a real mess pull them out and rebuild it. I don't think render ever works that well in the firebox.

In the process of making my tool wall and bench area up in my new garage! Some food for thought there (I love useable workshop and garage photos - always gives me inspiration).

How long is the run, is it in duct? Are we talking 25m here or 250m? Is the ground above the trench still just rough made up ground - i.e. no reason why you cannot re-dig it easily enough? Personally I'd probably just dig it up, lay in a 32mm and leave the 25mm next to it just in case there is a future benefit to it being there - you never know - could even be repurposed for something else.

Probably not.

Quite a few ways of doing this. I think I would initially dry fit it all and make sure the wall plate and shower arm have equal lengths of the bush threaded into them. I'd mark that then bond the bush into the wall plate so that it is sealed and solid, then I would offer up the shower arm to the bush with PTFE, at least if that side leaks it will be visible and drip into the shower. As I say, so many ways, you could also just PTFE it into both sides, or Hawk White jointing compound or basically glue it in with water and temp proof epoxy or Locktite.

I built my garage on a slope, the garage is shown as 2.3m to eaves, but at the back it is probably about 3.3m due to the slope. I knew this would be the case and said to the planning officer when she was out, that although it is shown as 2.3 you can see that it will be taller at the back, she just said just build it as 2.3 to the front door and the other sizes will be what they will be. I also told her that my extension heights would alter as I was going to change the ground levels with landscaping, she didn't seem to care.

So basically one neighbour, who has probably been there for a while and knows a decent number of people has an issue with your proposed, so they have tried to rally the troops to try and cause you some issues, in their minds they hope that they can stop it, this shows their naivety as this is often not the case. I get it, if you live in a street with cottages from the 1800's and suddenly someone builds a copper and timber clad box it might not "fit in", but then, assuming the proposed is a nice copper and timber box then why not, it is 2021. It could be worse, a housing developer could build a boring, soulless, identical to every other house cheap production house. You are probably going to build something decent looking. Could be other issues too though. I have an issue with messy selfish builders who take over the road and pavement for a year and leave spilt plaster and sand and concrete and have rubbish blowing about the place. So people can get upset when a build is going on near them.

This is how I did the walls in my living room. Offset studs and acoustic rockwool.

Ballachulish was the best slate in the world, the Welsh stuff came in second best... I'll get my coat.

Looks like a local "Tarmac Crew" did that. They clearly didn't follow the compaction 101 guide! If it was me I would hire a skip, dig that tarmac out and put in a gravel and hard paving solution and reintroduce some life about that area. I hate tarmac car bays like this.

Yes - so the negatives are all linked, then link the Sync between the modules which will pull them into sync and then run out your positives. You can actually just use the positives from one of the sensors to run all the drivers assuming you do not go over the limit of the sensor. The sensor might be limited to for example 10 ECG's (electronic control gears) because each connected gear acts like a load on the sensors signal transmitter, is might only be 20mA and if each device pulls about 1-2mA it can soon stop working. So you have your two Hytronik sensors, they generate the 1-10V signal, what does their signal actually control? Where do the 48V lamps come in to play? You can get DIN rail 1-10V mains dimmer modules usually called analogue AC interface modules, not as easily as you once could as 1-10V is not that common in lighting control anymore with DALI having taken over. There used to be one called the RAKO RAK4 but it was a 4 channel thing and about £500.00 There are lots of 1-10V low voltage and LED interfaces certainly but mains can be found too. Another option might be to use a Casambi CBU-ASD which is a wireless 1-10V and DALI interface module which you could use as your signal generator on a PIR trigger?

Eutrac is about the best, distributed by SLV and is sometimes just called SLV track, used domestically and commercial, galleries and retail etc. I have 2.8m in black you can have if you want it.

Hytronik instructions are awful, they are usually quite misleading, however, to answer your question, look closely at the diagram, it is not showing them connected directly. You cannot have the two 1-10V control outputs on the same bus, they would fight against each other and I suspect damage each other. Essentially 1-10V lighting control is just that, a 1-10V "signal" - so to all intents and purposes what you have is a controlled 1-10V power supply - so putting them both on the same bus would cause them to probably fail - you must only use the "SYNC" link between the two and you link the negative side, but don't just wire the 1-10V in parallel.