JohnMo

Make sure your ground floor is well insulated, 150 to 200mm PIR. After that you need a 6/7/8 port manifold, pump and mixer, the UFH pipe, wiring centre and a set of actuators. Pricing as above I did mine £1100 most my bits came from Outsourced Energy. Treat the whole ground floor as a single zone, operated from a single thermostat, something like a wired Salus SQ610. Try to go clever with phone app control and loads of zones, you will rack up costs and they are pointless as the time to switch on and have a warm house can be 6 or so hours. Keep it simple the boiler or heat pump will be happy and so will your pocket now and in the future. If you try to split the UFH heating you will need a buffer. Do the floor at 150 to 200mm pipe centres. Download LoopCad and have a play and design yourself.

Best bit if advise ever

But you get free postage (except Highlands and Islands), if your daft enough to pay 10x the normal price.

Atag manual has all the numbers, snapshot attached

I used https://www.itstechnologies.shop

I didn't go decentralised in the end, but did install two units instead of one. A small and a large unit. The small one does the two bedrooms and two en-suites. I only have to boost the small one when we use the shower.

First reason for a cylinder was to enable PV diverter and offset DHW and possibly heating/ adding to CH. Future plan is to also add solar thermal. Thermal panel currently sat in garage waiting to be installed. The buffer when in CH mode only gets heated to about 30 to 35, so heat loss is negligible, but it hot enough to pre heat water going to combi for DHW. Reason for combi was hot water on demand, without having to store hot water and the associated heat loss. To get everything to work sounds easy, but has taken a couple of revisions to get to it function efficiently.

This arrival tells you all about the heater etc. https://buildequinox.com/news/?id=4711

As I said loads of entries ago, the heater is stop liquid refrigerant forming in the lube oil. If you could or did disable the heater, you would be buying a new compressor quite quickly. The only way to stop this load is to switch the unit off at the mains. When the unit restarts it will go through a heat up period to ensure the refrigerant is expelled from the lube oil before starting the compressor. If you are using 5kWh a day on standby, while waiting to heat DHW, you may as just switch it off and use your immersion.

Min flow rates may be important for some combi boilers, but for anything else, min flow rates don't make much difference.

Deal directly. I did my own design, as there system didn't give the 0.5 ACH required without adding a third unit, for a new build in Scotland, so became cost prohibitive.

The other similar option is Fresh-R. When I was looking, they looked better flows and price. This is the scheme they quoted for me. House is 190m2.

Approved install only for the grant. Assume they would organise the EPC

There are only single or three phase, as far as I am aware, so you are really asking for two single phase meters. Double the standing charge of a single meter. No wonder they are confused. You seem to indicate you have there 100 amp fuses, only one is being used. So did your house at some point have 3 phase, hence the three fuses?

As mentioned if going weather compensation, don't waste money on flashy thermostats, the radiator just need TRVs, UFH as single zone. Set up weather compensation so UFH runs all the time without overheating the house, flow temps will be closer to 25 than 45 degrees. Radiators are you too late to increase size to future proof, set up with a max flow temp suitable for a heat pump. Boiler sizing can be difficult with a combi, as you want a big one for DHW, but they tend to be huge in a well insulated house for heating. So may benefit from a buffer to ensure long boiler run times. We have a big combi (Atag A35ECX) with only a max heating demand of around 3kW. Have a 160L buffer with a DHW coil in it for pre heating cold water to combi DHW. The buffer is also heated by solar, so big reduction in gas consumption in the summer. The water leaving the preheat coil, if it is above 45 goes straight to the taps, below 45 goes through the boiler heated to 55 degs. We can run three showers from a combi. If you are thinking combi, the only real way to get consistent performance all year round and the ability to run multiple outlets properly is with pre heat on the cold water. Not sure where low loss headers come in on a domestic install, just use close coupled tees, £2.50 instead of £250. Or if you have a buffer that gives you hydraulic desperation. I would have a pump and thermostatic mixer on each manifold for UFH, as it easily allows you to run different flow temperatures and it also automatically give hydraulic separation from boiler pump and also acts as limit stop on flow temperature to protect the floor.

Most likely the heat will be similar to an airing cupboard. You could insulate and box in the manifold and any of the pipes. We have Louvre doors on our airing cupboard, where the UFH manifold lives. If you want Louvre doors custom made, we used these for the ones we have. Good service, doors didn't even need painting. Simply Shutters Limited. Tel: 01842 814260 Fax: 01842 814460 http://www.simplyshutters.co.uk

This is all it needs, https://www.screwfix.com/p/bottle-air-vent-15mm/34359?tc=TA5&ds_kid=92700055281954514&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwJuVBhCAARIsAOPwGASEU9pcMfS0jV7msoGiH8MQI8Z0lWWqvgrLvrNS4x4WH42gipahiZsaAiwEEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds No idea where they get the need for external venting. I would check to see what else they are putting through the external wall.

For accoustic and other insulation you want no gaps. The additional for accoustic is you don't want the insulation bridging the upper, lower surfaces. Not really seeing any issues.

We used flexible external tile adhesive from B&Q for attaching stone slips. https://www.diy.com/departments/mapei-super-flexible-grey-tile-adhesive-20kg/38144_BQ.prd?ds_rl=1272379&ds_rl=1272409&ds_rl=1272379&gclid=CjwKCAjwnZaVBhA6EiwAVVyv9IssxJV-9uIJ6KgTYlWqGQqC49F8jyGu0_3At2PzDwuMc59QgehDIhoCg3YQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&storeId=1217

Comments. En-suite, needs to be above the shower not next to the door. Master bedroom supply is in the wrong location, you want the supply air to wash across the room to the ensuite. May be better at top right corner as you suggest or by the dimension 3370. Dresser only needs a supply. Not an extract as well. Bathroom only needs one extract, the one above the bath is too close to the window, the other too close to door. May be better above the shower also. Linen room only needs a single extract.

I think the comment is true that the earth will increase in temperature, but the rate of rise and the ultimate temperature is determined by the insulation. More over the heat loss will decrease with a better u value. So he really needs to go back to school. U value is W/(m2⋅K), so to calculate heat from s given U value, m2⋅delta T⋅U value. So for a U value of 1, you will loose 1W for each m2 for every degree temperature difference between the inside of the house and the ground. So a couple of worked examples 100m2 floor area, ground 7 degrees, house 20 degrees. 100 X (20-7) X 1 =1300. Heat loss 1300W. U value 0.1 heat loss 100 X (20-7) X 0.1 = 230 Heat loss 130W. Even if you said the ground was 15 (very unlikely) U value 1 heat loss, 500W heat loss 0.1 is 50W heat loss.

Should that be 100,000 m3? My main MVHR unit flow 190m3/h. The filters should really last 12 months. They are £40 a set delivered. 190 X 24 X 365 = 1,664,600 m3/a for £40, although mine last 6 months so £80/year.

We have two Titon units, one has the filters you are referring to, the other is a pleated filter in a card frame. Will have to get some filter roll and see what I can do for the card framed filters.

Ours is on the second set in 9 months, the latest set have been installed for a couple of months. In the sticks, but a couple hundred meters to the main road and very exposed and sandy site. Filters could be our main expense from the looks of it.

I wouldn't use it. Two tectite elbows, push fits. Likely to be cheaper than kinking pipe. But may be quicker just soldering.