JohnMo

Why buy a house when you don't know what you plan to do with it. Are you putting the cart before the horse?

Just look for an Ames taper. I paid around 3.5k for labour only, I supplied all materials. But on 192m2 bungalow, main living room vaulted 6.5m high, all other rooms had an angled ceiling approx 3 to 3.5m in most rooms down to 2.5m for some of the smaller rooms. So not the easiest job.

Our original plans were cut joists, but the joiner recommended posi-joists/rafters. Came cut to the correct length and shaped ends, no trimming on site. Longest rafter circa 9m, all manual handled in to place. I then added counter battons to give 350mm cavity. Mine was spray foamed; as I couldn't find a cellulose installer anywhere close to me.

That would one huge battery.

Front door for each bedroom, what wrong with that

I would get the land lord to fix it. The install instructions state. Check the flue draught which should read 10—20 pa, or 0.1 to 0.2 mbar. if you have a suitable flue draft, you should not get smoke in the room.

Are you using the connection to outside air?

Would you then include for a fair comparison, the enclosure ie the house shell and the insulation, the finished linings etc. - then you are back to why are heat pumps so expensive?

And back to the question - why do cost so much?

It is the same. A fridge removes heat from the air (inside a fridge) and moves the heat the to room. A heat pump removes heat from the air in its location and puts into the room.

We had intumescent paint on internal doors, it looked cr*p. Got building control out the way, rubbed it down lightly to knock of the high spots and acrylic painted over the top, looked the same as the other doors without the intumescent paint.

I would download the install instructions and see what the manufacturer says, with reference mounting and none combustible materials. Then go from there.

If your electrician doesn't know what he recommends, maybe you should be looking for a more experienced electrician.

Similar to above. Plant room, isn't right. Access to be bedroom via a plant room? Quite long duct runs from MVHR due to its location. You are doing double stud walls internally (waste of time in my opinion) but the noise will pass through the door undercut 10mm min. Not sure about the two access doors to the downstairs toilet. I would ditch the door between the bottom of the stairs and toilet. You don't seem to have a utility room? Storage space is limited, where's the hoover going and other stuff you want out of the way? Upstairs is a mess, just not right. Our house is about the same size, but with 3 bedrooms, all rooms are good size without being small or huge.

Why? Sounds like over kill. Main living space and main bedroom have a multifunctional sensor. £150 to £200 each. They can be stand alone items, we have mains wired CO2, temperature in lounge and bedroom. What benefit is there wiring it all into a central brain, bit lost with that one. MVHR, leave it as stand alone item, manual boost switch at each wet room, possibly auto humidity boost. Job done. Look at filters every sex months replace if required. A big house tends to be very over ventilated rather than under. MVHR, comparison

Just been looking at some other prices and some are plain daft. AV installation £70 to 80k Over £60k for electrical install incl lights MVHR, not sure how you design to building regs and passivhaus standards as they ask for different flow rates. Seems to kicking in around £100k for plumbing and heating. Item 067b, would advise not to full fill partition walls with insulation, as it needs an air gap to perform best, 50mm would be a better choice. Been looking but cannot find ground floor installation?

One tray per panel, is the norm. Internal blind - normal roller blind for example, fits inside window reveal. Old school. Or just close the curtains.

It's not rocket science, you are trying to overthink it. Was in the local b&q the other day their price are the same as Wickes and they had loads of stock. Just roll it out it will find its own level, plumping is great for a day or two, it will then find its own level with the help gravity.

Background, I have a gas boiler. But the assertion that heat pump don't work and he wouldn't sell to his worst enemy, is more a statement of his skill set, or lack of. A correctly designed, installed and commissioned heat pump will work and shouldn't cost any more to run than a gas boiler. The key is correctly designed, installed and commissioning. Solar PV and thermal, can work great in the shoulder months, but they cannot deliver a heating system. Example I live in NE Scotland and have 3.1kW of PV. The other day it was generating 3.01 kW at around midday, today it was generating 0.1kW at the same time, as it was very heavy cloud and pouring with rain. Generation is winter is about a 10th of that. IR rads work great in a single direction, so they warm your body that is exposed to the heater. If your back is away from the heater they will remain cold. They are 100% efficient, but that's not good compared to a well installed heat pump which could be 400% in the same weather. If I had a shed used as an office for a hour or so a day, IR would be fine. LPG, not convinced with your argument.

You really should be aiming at a really tight fit. Any gaps that remain spray foam then tape. Remember to add the perimeter boards before the fill insulation, the use a thin DPM membrane on top of the insulation. This serves two jobs, it's good to prevent screed getting below the insulation, if it does the insulation will just float. It also stops a chemical reaction between the aluminium coating on the board and the concrete within the screed.

Do you need to go through the could at all, with a Willis heater, could direct heat the water? I believe that was the original design intent. Ask it then heats top down, so you can a part hot tank or a fully hot one.

Your solicitor should be requesting all this info from the seller. The full warrant package should be available to you that includes the layout prior to modification and after. If the seller has lost them they are available from the council for a price, that the seller should provide to you the buyer free of charge. It's their obligation. Builder go bust all the time, sometimes on purpose.

Pretty much a waste of time, any soil will be full of weed seeds anyway. You are best to get top soil down raked and level, compact, re raked and level. Leave a few weeks for the weeds to grow, then kill them. Then look to do your lawn.

It all about control out with the UFH pump and mixer. UFH mixer sets the min flow temp. So can almost be ignored in cooling mode. There are several threads on here that discuss the details with drawings, but you will have to have search to find them.

You will generate loads of excess power in the summer, but you load limit that if you want, or export if allowed. In the winter when production is rubbish, you will still have your base loads covered and plenty of hot water by driving your heat pump.