JohnMo

We managed to get a few soakings, in between phases. We had an extra stage of 150mm of concrete also below the insulation and above the DPM. It took an age to dry out (concrete dew point) as I think I had a puddle trapped below the insulation. You make lots of holes in the slip membrane as you staple the UFH pipes in place. So if it rains the water makes its way down.

I would ask them for clarity of what they would like to see, at what timescale, and if you can proceed without prior approval of the photos.

Why aren't you getting the capped rate? Which looks like your night rate, but all the time.

Are you sure that this isn't just a Northern Ireland thing? Not UK wide.

I had my first set of structural engineering drawings and challenged lots. Ask why so much mesh and the reasons for it, with supporting calculations in writing (email). My wall rebar requirements almost all disappeared, apart from what looked sensible.

Joules and others do a cylinder with heat pump incorporated, that can do heating also.

My permanent one went in when no building was even there. Just put in an external box on a post where it would be in the house. Altered the post and the box as the build progressed.

I have just been to get my house insurance renewal, house is Durisol, spoke an adviser, explain ICF and Durisol, they said said yes it's a concrete wall box you tick. Thinking logically ICF is insulated formwork, to allow you to cast the house wall in concrete. The only difference with normal formwork is an ICF retains the formwork, instead of removing and using elsewhere.

That sounds the fan is hitting something. Switch it off at the mains, and take the front cover off. Have a good look inside. There will be a heat exchanger in the middle pull that out and that should give you access to the motors and fans - the heat exchanger will be a tight fit, mark which way is up and only put back in the way it came out. The fans should rotate freely and make little or no noise. If doubt film it and post someone will be able to advise. What are the two flashing orange lights?

Hallways and corridors and stairs are part of the ventilated floor space, you may not supply air directly to these areas, but they have to be included.

Why are using imperial units on building in 2022?

Use the attached will give you good starter for ten. You need your floor area in m2 for a start. Your flow into the house has to match the flow going out. Your inlets and outlets are already in place, so an easy reference for number of inlets and outlets. Inlet in dry rooms extract in wet rooms. Boost rate at 20% above normal flow. Humidity sensors are ok, but you end having to change the settings for summer and winter. So boost switch in wet rooms and kitchen are ok. Size MVHR unit at 50-100% bigger than your flow required, so unit is running almost silently. I have Titon MVHR units which seem ok.

So you are increasing the pump head, which is overcoming the set point of the flow meter. You should have a defined flow rate for each loop, why would you want to increase that? Increasing flow will reduce the delta T and increase the mean flow temp which will give an increased floor output. This cause temperature overshooting.

Our 100mm concrete with UFH pipes in it takes about 6 hours to heat up. Your heating the best part of 80mm. Individual loop flow speed is controlled by the flow meters, increasing the pump speed should have no effect. Your speed is set to cover the system flow and head requirements.

But you may want to switch that around in winter, when generation is low.

You will need to show you have complied with the following or similar.

There is a slight drop in performance for both SEER and SCoP, but nothing major on the multi split. Two modes of operation to consider, all indoor units on at once or just one at a time. An example is installed in living room and bedroom, you may only on either or room not both at the same time, so in that case a small outdoor unit would be ok. Installed in two bedrooms you would want a bigger outdoor unit to service both at the same time. Single split, you get better overall performance)SEER and SCoP) but a few small units outsides, shorter piping runs that be may be easier to route and hide. Outdoor unit sized for optimal performance in any room.

I would say shop around, as soon as COVID started people started taking the p***, and it's just gets worse.

Twice the price of the old models (8kW) why would you bother? Not a big step forward in efficiency, either.

There is also minimum load requirements, based on the possible drop distance, so may not be able to meet the load requirements connected to coping stones.

Why not look at a cylinder with heat pump built in. Needs an internal and external air supply, something like a Dimplex Edel (other makes available) Will use a 1/3 of the electric you use now. Instant water heater will use peak rate electricity so you don't want to go there.

It is big, keeping me busy. Roof overhangs most of it. Unfortunately as the sun moves west it still gets in during the summer. Structural work just about finished. Bitumen paint coating on top of the structural wood next week, if it's dry enough, then a big stack (210) of composite decking boards to install.

Why? Not in contact with soil, well ventilated, treated for external use. Top of wood will be further treated. Our 70s (sold in 2012) house had a wood balcony and 40 years later I had to repair a decking board.

I have just ordered glass balastrade, 26.5m long, that's is just under £9k that will give you a starter for ten. Photo of our planning drawing. Uprights are basically steel at top and bottom, sandwiched between wooden upright. Then lots of wood to build the structure.

I would put the cylinder on a stool, and infill the stool with insulation. Cheap and easy to do. My cylinder. Made pads/cushions out of leftover airtightness vapor control membrane and left over glass wool. Boxed in piping, heat exchanger with leftover PIR. Mine is on the floor, but the floor/ceiling has 100mm of insulation in it.