JohnMo

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Will this be big enough to start it?

When I did my internal walls, I just used large scissors. I think people hate it, because it makes you itch, cough if you don't wear overalls, gloves, glasses and face mask, if you do wear the safety gear you sweet buckets in a loft.

Pretty pants for triple glazing. Let down by the aluminium frame. You can get double glazed that performs as good or better if you are using krypton gas.

Joy of Scotland, temperature may not be as good, but water meters are rare.

Any garden watering?

Used muck munchers. https://www.muck-munchers.co.uk/ Although the treatment tank had been working for a year, when the outside air was still, the air vent would allow a stench to drop down. Within a couple of days of using muck muncher starter kit, no smell. One month later no smells and have just used a monthly top up. £40 for starter and a year's supply of top ups.

Your SAP is representative of having 50m2 of solar, not really being passiv or an airtightness of 0.18. just about any house with 50m2 would be over the 100 SAP score.

You cannot just pick a flow temperature and assume it will work. Flow temp depends on heat loss, both from the house and downwards. You really need to be looking at running weather compensation to get the best CoP. See attached, the red lines are there as examples. You need to calculate your heat loss then find W per m2. From these charts you can calculate your heat for WC. Find heat loss at -20 and +20, convert them to flow temps and plot a straight line curve. You need to consider the min flow requirements of the heat pump and let that guide you on centers. Also the centre distance affects the response time of the floor.

Be careful with fixings in the end grain as the pull out resistance is low.

The structural details from our structural engineer

SAP is still based on old values for embedded carbon within electric generation, so gas wins with SAP scores. U values look fine. So where you can improve is against standard details, that remove thermal bridges, these are lintels, windows and door returns and heads. So something to investigate. All low cost attention to detail. Also airtightness, assuming you haven't given SAP an airtight target. Again doesn't need to cost a lot, needs detailing early on and watch execution. Things to watch with airtightness. Anything better than I think 5 would drive you to MEV or dMEV, better than 3 MVHR. Ventilation without going the MVHR would be better as a demand based MEV or dMEV system. So something else to look at. Other things are heating controls, certain ones will improve SAP score.

Looks good, nice usable size.

Agreed. Heating, just set up weather compensation in my house after failing last year (long story). Below 12 degrees outside heating come on its own, super low flow temps, no need to switch on off, so why would I need a home automation system for that. Although I have thermostats they are not really needed. Electric towel rads, a simple timer thermostat. Lights get switched on/off as I walk in/out the room. Ventilation system just runs in the background, so need to mess with that. Has humidity sensors which are hit or miss, so just use boost switch. Tried cameras in theory great, in reality complete pain, not liking our WiFi, so now in my do it later pile (ie never). So PIR on outside lights is about as smart as I intend to go. No home appliances, lights, heating or ventilation connected to internet. TV already comes with a really clever IR remote, why pay to replicate it on another system.

Good work. But - Not keen on your prison window. My wife would throw a wobbly if I even proposed doing that. Not that I would.

81 B, isn't that good. What are you U values, they will be in the report. How is the house constructed. With UFH you need a good, low U value, otherwise you will be paying to heat heat the earth below your house, as much as your house. There may be things you can do to increase your rating easily and relatively cheaply.

I am using a combined grille on the gable end, seems to be working well. Less stuff going through the roof. https://www.paulheatrecovery.co.uk/product-category/mvhr-ducting/terminals-external/

I bought mine of gumtree, 5x for £50, sold two for £50, installed one on bedroom and another in the lounge, one spare. Amazing what you can find

It could the margin between the flow from the boiler and thermostat setting, which is different with different coil sizes. A small capacity coil needs a bigger margin between boiler flow temp and thermostat set point, otherwise what happens, boiler heats the cylinder up to about 50-55 degrees, the shuts down on return temp being high. The boiler then stops and starts while it forces the temp up. This is basically short cycling, using loads of gas/oil. To fix increase the flow temp another 5 degs or so. The manual say ensure boiler is set to 75 deg. Telford-Cylinder-Installation-Guide.pdf

DNO when installing equipment has in the past or does pay either a one off or yearly rental to the land owner. Access to replace maintain etc, is I believe written in to the rental agreement. I think once the equipment is there, it's up to the DNO how long it remains there.

Normally the simple fixes do it.

Simple science is. If external relative humidity is 70+, and inside air temperature or building fabric temperature is the same then it will be 70+ relative humidity inside. You get mould. If the internal temperature is warmer than outside, the relative humidity drops, the likelihood of mould drops, once relative humidity is below 50% and you have suitable ventilation you don't get mould. As mentioned you need to heat the house and have suitable ventilation. Because houses near you have similar issues doesn't really mean anything. A house down from me is new, concrete tile roof is already green, where it doesn't get the sun. My internal humidity rarely goes above 45%, the issues aren't related.

The pdf I attached, states that it is a by pass valve, it's not a blending valve. It's there to give a min flow rate, so if one or more room thermostats have switched of the manifold actuators the pump still has a flow path. It would have been set during commissioning, so hope you recorded it's position before moving things about. It needs to be part open.

I very much doubt a tin skin will add any more strength than wood cladding correctly installed. There are certainly way less fixings involved in a tin skin. Who is making the claim, it will be stronger with a tin skin?

You don't have manifold mixers? Use what you have got.