crispy_wafer

Looking to go with a glazed gable here, local company to me provided a quote, prices for the gable below. All alumininium windows, including installation eye wateringly 37k, need to re-evaluate all the other windows. Getting some other quotes off plan at the moment.

Question regarding the installation order as I'm not sure. Should the Acoustic insulation be installed before routing electrics and plumbing, or after?

Ok cool, I understand the purpose of the 50mm airgap. Judging between the indicative U Values I'm not sure I'd notice the difference between 50mm and 70mm insulation on top of the PIR so I'll save the money up front, and put it towards a new tool. Putting some short precut lengths of batten in at strategic intervals (Joins and board centres) was an idea I was mulling over too. I've bought some of the gapotape to have a play with too. Watched some youtube vid, and whilst it's expensive, I think it will make the job a little easier and cleaner.

Rafter depth is at 220mm which has left me in a pickle, drawings stated 170mm to fill with 120mm PIR. I've already bought the PIR based on the drawing so intend on making use of it, but have a little more room to fill so may add some more insulation in between the rafters. Had a play with ubakus to get some idea of any improvement. I'm now thinking of putting some frametherm slab on top of the PIR as this seems best bang for buck, I think I can make use of 50mm or 70mm. Drawings state a 50mm airgap. Typically is this airgap between the insulation and the membrane, or is it between insulation and tile? Many thanks.

I'd go block+Beam, DPM, insulation, Membrane, UFH, Screed Clean up the block and beam, and grout it, sweep/Scrape it so no nasty sharp bits or lumps of gobbo left behind from the builder, when happy lay down the DPM, insulation nice and tight, tape up joints, next layer of plastic sheet then clip in the ufh. Oh and Perimeter insulation needs adding in too. and someone told me to add some expansion strips in doorways for some man made breaks in the screed. Need further advice on that as unsure.

Yeah, I'd expect something on your buildings regs drawings to be honest, but even that could be a standard figure rather than specifically tailored to your site. Dont stress give them a call Monday morning, or give building control a quick ring, they'll give you a typical number where load bearing strata may be found in your area, then once you think you are ready they'll be out to investigate and give a green light before concrete pour.

Should I fit something to close the cavity round windows when building with a full fill cavity, BC said no need, however I seen other builds with it closed off so thinking for the sakes of a few pounds it would tidy it up. Also, where the Insulation comes down the angled roof truss to meet the wall insulation. I get that this butts up to the wall cavity insulation, then we seal and try to make airtight, does anything need to go in between to two insulation boards?

Indeed, yes it does, and a cost implication too, I could have done the old get on with route and face the consequences should anyone notice, but I just wanted to go by the book as I don't need the potential hassle should anything arise, I also had an amendment to window frame colour to include and a varcon for solar panels, so I needed to be in contact with the planners anyway.

Originally after Rivius, so a slate lookalike too at a reasonable price point. I'll spend the extra and be done with it. Availability, plus the look of it, I think I wouldnt be doing the build justice if we turned a blind eye on this detail. The roofer popped round with a tile, same dimensions and style close to that as the rivius but my wife and I both agreed it was not to be. Also I think I prefer the thinner profile of slate compared to the clay or concrete alternatives. I think in hindsight the delay has done me a favour.

Roof tiles at 16/18 weeks, told my builder and he dithered... put in a materials amendment last week to change to slate (probably for the better)

Yes, this could be the answer, the fear of breaking something though is strong... I've been quoted £7890 to install a Panasonic MDC09J3E5 a quick google suggests this can be had for 2800'ish before VAT, so 5k for signing a bit of paper. Sat in the office, part of me is saying 'yeah, I could do this myself, and save a wedge that could be put to good use elsewhere in the build'. The other half says, 'you haven't got a clue, leave it to the experts, unless you want to be sat in the floor/garden surrounded by bits'.

Here's hoping they put something in place for after next March, I'm all set on ASHP, but no way will I be done in time to submit RHI.

No, I dont think so, check the insulation values, and coatings match what you need. Recticel seems to be flavour of the month round this way due to availability.

May I ask where you are getting the 150mm from at that price please?

Thanks all, I can see what's required, I was try to get an image in my mind of how it goes together when I've got to get insulation between the trusses.

I was sat here thinking that there's not much detail in my post... Anyways, it's a pretty standard rectangle, there's dormer windows pretty much opposite each other, with a pretty standard build up. Tiles, latts, felt, truss, insulation, more insulation etc.

Attic trusses went on this morning, left the joiners and the builder to it as I had to pop into work. One thing was mentioned before I left - Diagonal bracing. Looks like I'll need to deal with this as neither of them appeared to think it was their jobs... They were cracking on with the longitudinal bracing when I left. I've had a looksie at nhbc and various 2d drawings, and kind of understand what needs to be done. The drawing from the truss company was in 2d also. Anybody got a picture they can share that features diagonal bracing, I'd be most grateful, even better if you have dormers. Then I need to work out how this is going to affect the insulation detail.

Sorry missed the arrow of the photo, that's great. The terms you provided helped me find a drawing which shows what I'm looking at. Yes, it's an existing system from old bungalow to septic tank. I will be attempting to intercept the clay pipe and tap the new build drainage into it. Easier said than done I suspect.

I need to get one of these to connect up new house to existing soil drainage - already discussed with inspector. What's it called please, before I go pestering the civils co,

Just browsing a 2nd's site for insulation, I notice they sell non foil faced PIR boards... What's the use case for these? If they came up in the sizes I needed could I use these as floor insulation?

hoping prices drop back, I'm in the middle of a build. Planning on getting watertight then shutting the door for 6 months whilst I keep an eye on materials that will be needed from there on in.

Yes and no to the parge coat. Not fully decided... I need to look in more detail, if it something that I can DIY or am I gonna create a big mess then require a pro to come and sort me out. I'm confident enough to give stuff a go it's just biting the bullet and going for it. I've seen products like blowerproof and passive purple, but does this stuff actually work and provide longevity or will it just dry up and end up cracking and splitting a mastic would in a few years, i'd like to think it does work, but there be sharks out there, selling stuff to the uninitiated. Spoke to the builder about the tony tray idea, he liked the idea, however, I'm not going to end up in a world of hurt later with rotten joists by doing this am I? I guess that's where the breather membrane comes into it's own? But if something can breathe how can it keep draughts out? I guess all this has been done to death in the past - I'm a newbie and love to ask how and why...

As above It's good you've got contact with builders, get a gut feel for who you feel you can work with, and communicate with on a regular basis. Be prepared to wait though. 1) Get planning submission sorted, busy builders like at the moment seem keen to spend time with clients once planning is passed and Building regs drawings are in place, that gives the reassurance that they are not spending valuable time building up quotes when the order may no be fulfilled. Talking to my builder I'm getting an appreciation for how much time they have to spend off the tools to go out customer facing with future customers, then building up an estimate, dealing with suppliers etc etc. It's not as easy as us customers think... Especially timing everything to run as smooth as possible. Add in material shortages and merchants being run off their feet too, material price rises are also causing a concern with customers aswell. - once planning has passed, and only if you haven't already you may need to submit additional information regards window colours, brick types etc 2) Architect will have contacts for an SE, again the SE may take a little while. Another one of those jobs I thought would be wham bam thankyou. Some can be quite steady. 3) Submit building regs drawings and detail to the LA with SE report, your builder ought to be able to use these drawings for dimensions and working out qty's. All the best.

Thanks for the suggestions above, ought to mention it's a brick and block construction, airtightness isn't going to be up there with the best, but I'm striving to do the best I can. We did look at Manthorpe joist seals, but my pozi's are quite beefy at 122 by 300@400, told the manufacturer I didn't want any bounce, so these are probably overkill... The joist seals are 120. They will do special's if you ask, and was quoted about 680 for 48 from the BM, but my builder has everyone lined up on a conveyer and the joists are being installed next week, so not much time to act. My fault really for not communicating effectively and expecting stuff to be available off the shelf so to speak.

Anybody have recommendations for choice of membrane to use when employing the Tony tray method of maintaining airtightness around first floor joists. Many thanks.