crispy_wafer

Yep, same group

Quick question, regarding placement of a stud wall that joins in line with a block wall. The block walls will be wet plastered, PB on the stud wall. How far back should I set the stud wall from the block wall instinct tells me about the thickness of a piece of plasterboard? I've attached a diagram. I've been told to double the PB on bathroom walls aswell so, is that then double PB on both sides of the wall. Whilst I'm at it, I've beefed up the perpendicular stud wall to 5*2, so I can run some MVHR ducting up/down. Should be no issue running MVHR ducts in studs should there?

Timely thread, thanks for starting @SBMS , I'm waiting to see what they come out with with regard future incentives for Heat pumps, however I'm in a similar boat with a choice to make, I'm bricking it over electrickery prices, and whilst I'm doing my best to insulate, and make airtight, I ultimately don't know how good a job I've done or not until I'm living in it.

Is this a dormer roof type construction? If so then stick to your guns - the k7 kooltherm or equivalent is what you want for a proper job (the Pink stuff) or PIR minimum (white/yellow stuff), Actis Hybris wont be enough to satisfy your drawing and your SAP calcs .033 wmk vs k7 @ .018wmk (not that I know what that means... Lower the better?) Standard PIR is at .022 ish I think. @Russell griffiths has got it spot on. Gapotape is ok I bought some but in then didnt bother using all of it as I was having great results cutting the PIR to fit (Straight edge/clamps and a festool isc) Sorry edit... 360mm rafters does give a bit of wiggle room to alter from PIR to something a little easier to handle and install correctly. Playing with UBAKUS may help.

How does the plastic piping interface with the metal silencers, any issues? I'm planning on doing similar but without getting my hands on stuff it's hard to know about how interchange the plastic is with metal fittings. Could I ask what sealant you have used on the pipe joins please?

Morning all, I'm struggling to get the dimensions I want with the number of outlets required., I'm looking at a space of 330mm between joists and about 300mm from underside of floor to ceiling... Has anyone made up their own manifolds? What materials did you use to construct, how can you connect the ducts to the box... If you have documented your construction, it'd be great if you could point me in the right direction. Many thanks.

It would have been nice, but ultimately I had a budget, and the big european brands were too expensive for me, maybe if I had less glass, doors whatever, the product offerings were very nice though. In the end I settled on a nice uk manufactured ali product, which suited my budget and the mrs approval, not only that, it was one that multiple companies can offer so there was a good amount of competition to secure my business. Still waiting on fitment so this chapter like many others isnt finished yet.

Good questions, MVHR for extract, the ducts will attach to the vent from above and be insulated. To be honest, maybe I was overthinking it, and had gone down the route of thinking I needed a void, when in reality I probably don't. I can easily mange the penetrations for what is essentially just over a 5m*5m area with a bedroom and bathroom. I just need to have a look at some pictures of modern bathrooms with nice slim LED light fittings (panels/strips), Design and looks is not my bag at all.

when I said downlights, I meant LED downlights. Insulation above will be mineral wool between and over. So maybe no need for a service cavity then, just some detailing around and above any penetrations for cabling, light fittings and MVHR. I need to do some looking up on light fittings I think.

I've got a small bit of roof that spans a bedroom and small bathroom, the bedroom will have a standard light fitting, bathroom I think at this stage will have downlights of some description. I'm planning to fit a vapour barrier on the underside, then batten out for services. What sort of depth to make the void? Floor to bottom of wall plate is about 2350. For the barrier, poly sheet ok, or is there a better way, I think I'm likely to put holes in the poly sheet...

Ok, so the ridgebeam, supporting a cut roof over a high pitched ceiling. Pic below is probably better than my wording. I've got insulation between the rafters, cut to the top flange of the steel, but not over.

Just an update to this, made up some simple brackets out of 18mm ply and notched out the end. Screwed to the rafters to hold lower part of the OSB in place. Managed to get 8 boards trimmed, lifted and fitted this weekend, slow going but pleased.

Morning, I've got a steel ridge beam and two angled supports for a gable. I've got a fair pile of PIR offcuts, can I just cut them to shape and fill the steel, then insulate over before boxing in? Or would I need to leave an air gap.

It's been a few years (10), but I purchased about 200 ish laurels from beechwood, via ebay at the time, all bare rooted. No problems whatsoever. I just heeled them into the vege patch in bundles when they arrived, and transplanted them when time allowed.

I've been following a flowscreed company on facebook, they regularly post pictures of work they do, nearly all of the pictures are new build and the screed is getting pumped in with the stud wall framework already in place.

I like these idea's, simple but effective way of supporting and holding the board in place. I've got some scaffold towers set up in there at the moment so I'll see how easy it is to manhandle the OSB.

Morning all, I've been tasked with bracing out a high pitched ceiling with 11mm OSB, the highest point is about 4m (seemed like a great idea at the time...) I've read on here that a few of you have used pb lifts and swear by them, do you think it'd be feasible to use one to lift OSB. ta Marek

Sorry, just doing my usual - lack of detail. bpcventilation the mvhr guys.

sorry, my fault, I didn't give any context for use, I'm temporarily removing the bracing on the roof trusses as the spacing on the bracing is too tight between the uprights and chords So I can fit my inner layer of insulation.

Leaving this here if anyone is looking to save a few £'s at BPC

Any tried and tested recommendations for multitool blades for wizzing through nails? Loads on Amazon, which makes the choice too difficult... Dewalt fitment,

Think I'm going to lift and put some sand down, I've got a pile of soft sand leftover so that'll do, and as it was only a couple of boards I put down it's no biggie. It's all benefit of experience, which I don't have so not going to take the chance.

I've grouted the blocks to the beams, maybe I was a bit stingy over the top of the blocks in some places...

Managed to sort out the DPM, now I'm back with another Q I've trial fitted a couple of the PIR boards on the block and beam floor, I've noticed a little rocking up and down when walking over them, the beams are slightly higher than the blocks and where the board finishes mid span, there is no support. Is there a tried and tested method of resolving this as I expect this will cause an issue later on with the screed if not dealt with? It's 150mm PIR so not exactly flexible. I'd though about a sand/cement layer, maybe thin slithers of insulation board, or timber as a packer under the edge...

Well, applying heat works a treat, a quick blow over with my gas torch and it's stickier than a sticky thing and the dpm has bonded nicely. This heavy dpm is under the insulation, but was planning something over the top of the insulation too, i was told something about screed eating the insulation and stopping the insulation from floating when the screed is poured.