crispy_wafer

So, in thinking I was just about done with this lot, I thought I'd air test all the pipes it in preparation for calling the building inspector. All held pressure solidly, apart from 1 section, which just happens to be 9m of pipework under the floor, and 9m of pipework I didn't install, joint issue in the middle or joint at the rest bend have to be the causes, cant think there would be any other point. I'm mightily peeved that I cant get to the pipework to rectify, floor's been screeded, and ufh pipes are down. And even more peeved that for some reason I trusted the eejit that laid the pipework to do a solid job. Anyway, what can one do about pipework that doesn't hold pressure? We are talking about 15-20mm drop on the mano gadget over about 10 minutes. I'd tested it multiple times yesterday afternoon isolating any joints external to the build.

I'd prime the wall with something, i used some soudal airtight paint stuff to create a non dusty surface as that's what I had laying about, then a permanent flexible mastic sealant like Orcon or something and then a cut of membrane and tape it.

I've just used united civils supplies for pipes they delivered the 6m jobbies (polypipe). Landscape plastics for bends and couplings, IC's and risers

Ebay, from an MCS installer who had done calcs wrong for a customer, looking to get some money back, so, based on that I was happy to take the risk.

Great post, thanks for raising it, must admit i was looking at my velux wondering how the hell do I deal with it. I guess something like this VELUX LSB 2000 Lining including Facings | Roofing Superstore®

Think I saw chains for drain coming off the dome roof at St George’s park. England football training ground!

Just for a bit of context, a bit of CAD... Of how the pipe run was. 2 ic's in the garden, and 1 quite literally 1 pace infront of the utility room door. and my plan, the WTP will be > 7m

I've taken to putting C studs back to back - like ][ , because I had some left over, and it was easier for me to use rather than sell on. Makes it loads more rigid! I wouldn't buy more to do this though, it was just a try it and see thing.

Ground level is going to be increased another 3 bricks - ish, so I think that makes the smaller chambers right on the edge of acceptability

Nah, I see your point I think, my OCD was going into overdrive. I wanted the IC's the same distance from the wall and in line - crazy but I'm going to see it everyday, and I know it'd pee me off if they were on the p*ss

They are the 450mm ones. 1) Easier to work with from an install perspective 2) Going to be a couple of risers deep, probably 600-700mm when I've built the ground up round the build, so I felt they'd be easier to get into if I ever need to. 3) Trying to do a 'proper job', not necessarily a cheap job, so that may mean i spend a bit more and overkill it sometimes - but that's a fault of mine, and not having much previous experience/trust to call on I'd sooner go a bit further than regret it later on. I'll post up the rest of the pics tomorrow.

Added a bottle gully as a condensate drain for the ASHP, probably overkill. Will move a touch when I have worked out exact positions of the drain from the wall.

So, after making the mess, I set about running some string lines to get a feel for the new pipe runs. Mummy duck having a snack before she goes to sit on her eggs. I Installed an inspection chamber and started laying some pipework. higher powers decided that we must have some rain, and if you look closely you can see the 3 remnants of pipework that was leading under my garden to another inspection chamber. String line also in place to make sure my new ic's are inline and same distance from house.

I made a decision a while back that the pipe runs that we agreed with the builder were cack and a mistake on my part for agreeing. Issues The septic tank arrangement I found out when connecting to it was rubbish, the inlet was lower than the outlet. The pipework must back up until it finds a level, and then just self manages itself. Unfortunately the point where I needed to connect the soil pipe from the build to it was under this level - inspection chamber would be constantly full of effluent, and not really something I could live with knowing about. The builder left inspection chambers where I didnt really want them. 1, 2 steps infront of the back door was getting on my t*t's in particular... So I settled on the decision that a treatment plant will go in to deal with the waste from the new build. The placement of this necessitated some alteration of the installed pipework, so a meeting with the building inspector was arranged and new pipe runs and inspection chamber layout agreed. So following a few weeks of dry weather, I hired a .7t micro and set about digging the trenches, removing the previous pipework and generally making a mess!

Just updating as i've gone quiet on this lately, slowly accumulating parts for the install A couple of retailers have failed on the pre plumbed cylinder that I wanted, think there must have been supply chain issues, so have bought a 250l unit off ebay, as link listed in the marketplace. Costs so far. Grant 6kW Heatpump - 1280 Rubber Feet - 40 WH 250L Cylinder - 740 Primary pipework, press fit levers, press elbows, T's etc, caleffi antifreeze valves, pipe insulation, flexible pipes - 400(ish) Grant buffer/llh - 325 Grant wiring centre ep001 - 40 Grant Hot water boost kit - 70 Mag Filter - 100 Waiting for the cylinder to turn up now, so what's needed re: expansion/filling etc.

Similar here, only a single standing charge, paid 125+VAT to have the DNO put fuses in the carriers, then contacted EDF for a 3ph smart meter, they took about 4 weeks to install.

Ooh, sounds like something I could need further info on as my 3ph setup will be broadly similar. Please report any findings either way.

90mm straight coupling mvhr - Google Search Find ones that have clips inside, you may also need rubber sealing rings too, sorry these are Female fittings, but could for you?

Great stuff! I'm still collecting bit's for my install, I've spent a bit more than you though (just shy of £4000 inc VAT at the moment for the ASHP/Cylinder install) as I purchased a matching 250l pre plumbed cylinder to go with the grant hp. I cant wait to get cracking on it, however I've got many other jobs to get done first. So that's holding me back a bit. Rather gutting, but I saw a Grant 6kW, and 180l cylinder go on Ebay this week for £820.

Absolutely, either buy rails, or use a straight edge and clamps, keep it in good condition, wipe/brush or air blow it clean it after use and you will sell it for not much less than you paid for it when finished. Essential for cutting the edges true, Gapotape is OK as it allows you a few mm of leeway, I used a couple of boxes of gapotape, then went cutting onto flush and inteference fit when I ran out.

nor me!

decent length screws and washers like these (others are available) TIMco MID35 Metal Insulation Disc 35mm - Zinc (Bag of 100), Silver : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Just to add my 2p for what it's worth, I've 2*2.5 (1 ducted,1 wall mount), and 2*3.5 ducted units going into the 3 bedrooms and 1 open plan kitchen/diner area, as mentioned above, once you settle on an installer and a chosen manufacturer you can download the brochures and see the condenser unit specs/and connection limitations. This is from MHI, but shows you the capacity limitations, there is also a page which shows acceptable combinations of indoor units too. My installer is happy for me to have an 8kW condenser installed as the maximum connection capacity is 13.5kW, though he did suggest a 10kW unit may be a better fit. Reason being that my use case will probably not involve running all units at full whack all at once, if that does happen then the indoor unit capacities are downrated (even downrated, I suspect they'll be fine on all but the most extreme of days, when it may just take a little longer to heat, or cool), the condenser isn't purchased yet, so still time to change my mind on this... My use case is that this is for supplemental heating for downstairs if needed, but primarily installed for cooling during the summer, & autumn, and upstairs will be primarily used for background heating in the winter & spring when required, but cooling in the summer, autumn. We'll have an ASHP for UFH downstairs, but no heating other than towel rads in the 2 bathroom spaces upstairs.

Thankyou (love that picture), yes, it had been crossing my mind if it the margin was a bit tight for DHW. But we have a stove, and then A2A in the bedrooms.

I don't know if I'm capable or not yet! But most of it is mechanical connections right, so I'm more than capable of following a manufacturers diagram and joining pipes? The bit I'm more worried about is making it look neat and tidy so I can put pics on here... But my experience to date... Did my heat loss calcs, used jeremy spreadsheet, and the freedom one, both came up approx 5kW, had an MCS guy do a survey who provided a nice estimate, his heat loss calc, I presume he just totted down the details and sent it to his account manager at Mitsubishi, or local plumbing outlet and also came back with 5kW at -2.8. So pretty confident in those numbers I toddled off and purchased a 2 week old 6kW Grant heat pump (wrongly sized by Grant for an MCS company) £1300. Came with flexi hoses 2 controllers and some wiring boxes, cables and bits. Thought I'd buy a matching Grant pre plumbed cylinder, as that has all the gubbins attached, wiring centre etc. Think I may have to pay retail on that, so that will be me about £3500 so far. Local Plumber at 300 to connect up the cylinder and commission for 2 days. I need some rubber feet I think at about £60, About 6-8m 28mm copper, a handful of elbows, some caleffi anti freeze valves, some isolation valves, a mag filter, and expansion vessel, maybe a buffer/volumiser (still not sure, it might be overcomplicating things), Insulation for the external pipework, pipe clips and stuff. Reckon that will take me to about 4500 give or take. Then the spark for a day, I'll lay out the cabling, but I think the pre plumbed takes most of the hard work out it. After BUS grant my quotes have been around 7-8k but with a 170l cylinder, I want a 250... Question is, is a saving of 2-3 worth the hassle of DIYing it If it goes to ratsh*t i've only got myself to blame, which I'm more than comfortable with. we wont go cold, I've got A2A installed, and one of them polluting things. The cylinder has an immersion so I'll have some hot water if needed.