crispy_wafer

Question for the boarding guru's. Stud wall at 400 centres, likely to have backer boards attached in shower area. Can I use gfs1 for supporting edges, and mid board support instead of cutting up noggins? I could use thicker backer boards but have scrounged some gfs1 left over from metal framing that went up at work.

If any assistance, I'm using 1/2 to 1/2 shower wallplates from Warmer, with hep 1/2 to 15 transitions.

Spot on that! That's just the size I'm looking for too! In the same ballpark as the abacus ones from rubberduck. I think that would fit snuggly in a 500mm wide hole!

🤣 Yes, it's been a long long week. Thought I was climbing the ladder and making progress, about to tick off one room, only to discover this wonderous idea of a recessed cabinet. Down the snake back to square number 3!!

Thread revival @Pocster, I'm looking to fit a recessed mirror/cabinet into my small downstairs shower. Not too many results on the old google. What did you fit? Have you been happy with it, has it stood the test of time?

Thankyou, I wont entertain that idea then, I've got 1/2 f to 1/2 f wall plate adapters that I'll continue to use.

Have to admit I'm learning slowly with what can and cannot be done, but last night I was playing with 15mm brass wallplate, and a 1/2" - 15mm hep20 female socket. I found I could take the nut and olive away from the wall plate and thread the hep20 female socket on to it. Can I do this, or am I likely to cause problems for myself at a later date? Thx Marek

I'm Double checking my list of bit vs what the install guide says laying stuff out on the floor as I go... I've got to, according to the guide, put in an air vent/valve at the highest point. I've a couple of questions on this. 1) Is this needed on flow to the UFH pump and on return to the HP, or just one on the flow side? 2) Because at the moment the highest point is located in the 1st floor void and I'd rather not fit an access hatch in the ceiling, can I pipe off to a cupboard or loft space and install the air valve there? That pipe could be up to a 3m run or so, is that ok do you think? Can anyone recommend a manual valve, or could I use a drain down fitting that I can then attach a hose onto and pipe into a bucket or bowl. Thx Marek

He's probably allocated a day for the job, so whatever day rate is plus materials. I'd forget about hourly rates for tradesmen!

Wonder how it would look with drop ceiling in over the island with some led strip lighting round the edge?

Reckon if I moved into a house with either design, I could live with them quite happily!

Any gaps big enough to fit a nozzle into got the foam treatment... Then painted a load of airtight paint on as a primer, then taped over the lot. Was an easy job, but it gave me an excuse to get away from real work!

@jayc89 Don't forget about extraction, or a recirc jobbie and position if you need it.

Now that's why I advocate looking at what others have done! I love what you've done with the cooker position. You see I have windows on two walls too and pretty much discounted positioning the cooker anywhere but on a flat wall. You placed in a corner and I think that works quite well! Thanks @joe90 for posting that! I'm going to send this to the boss and send her brain into a tailspin!

Gotta hide all them biscuits for the lazy housebuilders anonymous thread somewhere 🤣

All zones are Preset according to design. Night time turns the whole system fan down if you want it to! If you boil a pan/have a shower and raise humidity levels the system boosts to bring levels back into range. Absolutely no need to change each vent on the fly. Once it's in, set, monitor, tweak, then forget about it.

We all see things differently and we all have our own ideas, which is great. Here's the layout we have settled on as reference. We didn't particularly want any wall cupboards, so have managed to get the space req'd with floor cupboards, and with two windows, cooker position was pretty much decided for us. Boring but simple, good amount of floor space, which we like. We went through our existing kitchen, listed out all the existing cupboards and just made sure there was a duplicate in the new...

@Mattg4321 Use the planner on diy kitchens Online Kitchen planner | Free design software | DIY Kitchens (diy-kitchens.com)

All my studs are set at 400 centres, right inbetween sizes, So I guess I could flip the boards horizontally then nog horizontally at every 300 that could work. My stud wall will end up looking like a chess board though!

Has anyone seen @Pocster, probably got trapped in one of them kitchen cabinets! I think, as original plan, I'll set them on a noggin then use an male/female 1/2" extension iron to the correct depth.

Nah, I don't think it would be a problem. I wonder if DIY do an internal corner unit in the style you like with a radiused door, then you could do the same on the island and put a radius on the island worktop. It would smooth out the lines, Wonder how that'd look? We went to DIY at the weekend, went in with one idea - probably the most expensive inframe shaker, came out with another Cento with the slate finish and some concrete finish ones aswell(their cheapest), and maybe a dektron worktop with a coloured grain through it... And if fashions change, so what, we'll deal with it when the time comes 🤣!

Maybe an issue with fridge/freezer being almost behind the person cooking? Where's the kettle and toaster in relation to the fridge? Will it become a pain in the arse walking round and cracking your hips on the edges... I'm no designer and having these issues, asking myself these questions as we are also finalising designs...

Will do, I tend to follow it, but that thread moves very quickly at times I may have missed the bit about depth... Sorry my poor explanation previously. I'll be using brass wall plate elbows with the hep 1/2 - 15mm plug on it.

This is the fella I've been watching on youtube... He uses couplings to set the depth, guess this is ok to do?

Thanks, I've absolutely no idea on final wall finish 🤣, I'll get the Mrs to do some browsing, then get the tile thickness of the sort of things she likes. Then I guess from there on in, I can just filter for 9mm tiles or whatever and tell her to pick something at that depth. Would you set tile adhesives at different depth's depending on tile, or is it just a standard thickness? We are not doing anything too special here. The known's at this point 20mm tile backer So I need to know: Tile Depth Tile Adhesive Depth I've ran HEP to the outlets because it was easy to thread through the studs, and assumed I was going to use a 1/2" to 1/2" wall plate elbow with a HEP 1/2" connector. Now thinking about it the angled wall plate wont project far enough through the backer board + finish. And I don't know at this point how long the thread is on the wall outlet and rainfall head as I'm waiting for them to turn up. What do the pro's do? I don't mind if I have to start again if I have to, it's only a bit of time, and all part of the experience!