crispy_wafer

Nice design, Where are you putting the kettle?

I'd go with middle

anything in the screed? ufh pipes?

Aah yes, searching control cable brings up lots of discussions on here so thanks for that, lots to read about. What size would you recommend?

Just looking at the electrical schematic for my Grant HP, as I'm trying to work out how many cables I need run out to the heatpump (All in the name of making penetrations and sealing up), I need a bit of help, could someone give a once over for me please? So excluding the electric supply. 1*3 core from Grant EP002 Interface 1*3 Core from Wiring centre 1*2 Core from Controller 1*2 core from HW Cylinder Does that seem right?

Have one, I basically just want the hidden cable to be Cat5/6 rather than some proprietary cable with big fat ends that's of no use should a competitor enter the market.

This looks like it might solve a problem... Then I can just run a cheaper ethernet cable to the endpoint.

Yeah, I have it. Previous was FTTC with a copper cable that managed about 16Mb DL on a good day. Average between 120-200Mb, and latency between 25-40ms. Son plays fortnite on his XBOX and doesnt scream about lagging now, so all is good. Bought the refurb kit in December at 50%. Have bypassed, and connected to my own LAN. I'm not in the new build yet, but am debating on running some conduit with the Starlink cable down to where my rack will be, I do need to think about what changes there will be with Starlink, hardware and how they connect in the future, as its a bit non standard, and the cable run will be completely closed up. Migrated the landline telephone service to A&A. So the Openreach cable can go in the bin for all I care now!

Loctite 55, got me out of trouble when I needed to install my dunsley stove w backboiler. Allowed a little bit of rotation on the joint for lining up.

Perfect thanks, @sharpener @Super_Paulie I'll be drilling from outside in, so I'll definitely take that tip on board.

Great idea, but another of the many things I didn't consider when starting my self build journey. I reckon I could compile a checklist for anyone new to this game.

Still on with making penetrations through my brickwork and have come to sorting the outside taps. Using something like this Made4Trade Wall Plate & Tube 15mm x 350mm | Toolstation Had it in my mind to drill hole, and sleeve with 22mm overflow pipe. Should I be insulating the pipe through the brickwork? My worry is, if I drill too big a hole to accommodate pipe insulation then there wont be sufficient brick left to screw the backplate too. Will be fitting an isolator internally, so can turn off supply and open tap up in extreme cold should I need to.

@HughF what’s the tape you used on the insulation please?

pretty sure you can get a 1" Female to 28mm compression fitting. Then a short piece of copper with your lever valves on then the flexi tails to your ASHP.

My first effort at the mecanno ceiling, made a few booboo’s along the way and it took me longer than anticipated but I got there. Haven’t fixed the mf5 into place yet, that can wait till I board it.

Would a thin flat rubber washer work? pressed into the cap?, or if all else fails a 32mm air test bung.

I'm now looking ahead to framing the ceiling in my entrance hall, I've got 3 fixed walls to attach the perimeter channel, the 4th will be hanging from a 3 ply attic truss that runs along the inner edge of the stairs. Is there a go to way to deal with this. I'm thinking I could attach 3*2 to the inner edge of the attic trusses at 600mm's and fix the channel, but that leaves me with about a 140/150mm section with no support for when I plasterboard. My google searching is not helping me much, but I guess this situation is not too unique. What's the best way to deal with this?

That's actually neat solution @HughF. A picture of where the the HP will be sat, pipes into plant room through the scribble, It will sharing space with an A2A unit hence why it's over to the left... I've seen Trunking used for A2A units pipework, something like that I think would be ideal I think to cover the pipes and brickwork entry.

Got a mix of Origin OW70 and Origin OW80 here. They are not bad, and were reasonable cost wise, unfortunately the handles supplied are a load of absolute crap. Whatever you choose please check the handles 🤣

It's coming to the time where I'm planning on ruining my lovely brickwork by coring holes for ASHP flow/return. I'm at the point where I'm trying to figure out how to make it look presentable and finished... Because I'm using 22mm+19mm walled insulation, I have a 65mm core drill for individual holes if I choose, but I've also seen pictures of installs where a 120mm hole has been cored and both insulated pipes shoved through, looks a dogs dinner though. I've got various samples of insulation, solar rated, class o, even some plastic coated stuff, but having that poking out of the wall with a bit of sealant round it doesn't strike me as the most 'finished' of methods. How should I tackle this, 1 hole or 2. Is there anything I can clad the pipework with, make it look tidy (Would say professional, but some of the google images from MCS co's are far from nice on the eye)? What would you do, or have you done, had done? Pictures would help too if you want to share. Many thanks Marek

For timber, a strong magnet to detect the nails/screws is what the oldies used to use…

You don't necessarily need to stick to the same manufacturer, look for an unmanaged L2 POE switch, this will bring your price down a bit. Plug it in and go. then connect up your ap's and configure. Unless you want to mess with segmenting. At work I mix a bit as it's easy for me to configure and install Aruba switches, and Ubiquiti AP's. Mainly because I cut my teeth on Cisco IOS, my new place uses HPE/Aruba so transition was relatively simple. For home, I've got TP Link Omada based gear as they were on offer a little while back. Cost based decision... Access points at about 100 each is about right though, some cheaper, some more expensive.

Looking for a fairly discreet setup in my lounge, colleague at work showed me his setup that he installed with motorised lift/screen etc, looks great, just what I'd like to do! A big issue I have is that I'd like a projector lift in the centre of my ceiling (symmetry), problem with me having Pozi joists, I've got a ruddy Strongback in the way with about 150mm clearance underneath. If I offset the lift to the left or right of the Strongback would I have to move the screen from centre, or do projectors have the ability to deal with being offset and correct the image? Aside from that, anyone else play with screens and projectors, what ya got in terms of screen, lift/shelf?

Just need pointing in the right direction really as I'm pondering over the best approach. MF ceiling for my open kitchen/diner Dimensions if split down are approx 4500*3800 and 3900*3600. This is borne out of now really knowing how many joins and connections an MF ceiling can really handle Is it feasible to treat this as one big area and install the MF with lots of joins in the MF7 and MF5? Or split it down into 2 rectangles by installing a couple of lengths of MF6 edge support across the middle, to try and reduce the amount of jointed Mf7 support and mf5 top hat.