crispy_wafer

haha, ive no idea, i'm still grafting away trying to build the place - plasterboarding now... Either way I'm sorted for heating and cooling, I've got ducted ac downstairs too, and with the amount of south facing glass it will certainly come in useful, upstairs and down. The main thing really is we have heating and cooling and will be comfortable.

When I started, fan coils and ashp cooling wasn’t a much travelled path in the trade, and those who I was taking advice from admitted it was doable but wouldn’t warrantee any work if we had issues with condensation drips and damp…. We had a2a at work and use it for both heat and cool, so just went with that, looking back I’ve spent twice, and should have insisted…. Upstairs I reckon will be cooling the majority of the time, we like bedrooms at 17/18 degrees and I reckon heat wise that will be achieved from air movement from downstairs. My biggest concern is bathrooms, although I put in electrics for a mat and towel rad in each I’m now thinking I could whack a fan coil rad in there and make use of the ashp at this time of the year, the extra load won’t be much as it will be on the ufh circuit. I may just run the pipe work and leave in the floor void. So if it becomes an issue later on then tails can be pressed on, and pulled through the floor.

Upstairs we have split ducted air to air in the bedrooms, bathrooms we have electric ufh, and I’m considering putting a fan coil rad in the bathrooms as a last minute decision instead of electric towel rads before I finish boarding the ceilings. It’ll cost nothing to pipe up, as I’ve got loads of 16mm pipe left from the ufh.

Register plate. Steel, disconnect flue and insert through hole. Though you can cut hole in plate and saw down the middle and slip either side of the pipe and then fashion something to cover the cut if flue pipe removal is a faff.

We had to fit swift boxes too, trouble is, the swifts that visit us every year nest in the stables…. So the one in the brickwork is redundant, just a box ticking exercise I feel. Just as well because I don’t fancy swift crap down the brickwork, and on the floor below.

With the OSB/Ply being used to close the cavity and it only being fixed to the internal leaf, would this allow any flex in the board at the window frame, or is the OSB rigid enough over the width of cavity? What would the J bead be used for?

If merchants then yeah, I do, all my build stuff is on CC, section 75 if nothing else. If it's brand new, make sure you've used it in a chip/pin somewhere first as it may decline over the phone.

When confronted with a steel that split my house into two in the floor void, I had to replan, moved the unit to the loft, built in a cupboard in one of the bedrooms and drop the pipes to the ground floor through the void at the back of said cupboard. Is there any opportunity for you to do similar?

if anything like mine, this, or res bar will need doing, just to have lovely flat surface to plasterboard. just looking back through my emails 304*75 at 400's worked out at 11.2mm deflection cost was 1585+vat for 25 joists to span 5.2m asked them to get me to 8mm and they came up with 304*122 @ 400's cost was 1980 + vat for same qty's. for 400, along with switching to attic trusses it was a no brainer, makes for piece of mind. 400 centres is a pain for soil pipe, so design in mind

I've been using these GTEC screws for fixing ply, plasterboard to metal frame (C Stud or Top hat and res bar), I picked up some crappy self drilling screws from screwfix, and butchered the plasterboard as they didn't drive into the metal very well and just spun around in the board making a mess. Siniat GTEC 32mm Drywall Screws - ADA Fastfix Ltd Pricing note, I'm paying 13 + vat for 15mm GTEC Soundbloc, and 10 + VAT for 12.5 Soundbloc, not in massive quantities. I'm taking 30 or so at a time as I dont have too much space to store, and not leaving outside now its got a bit damp...

Whilst you are doing all that good work don’t forget your perimeter insulation.

About the same for the steel fab, with a single winder. Treads at about 200 ish per, and a steel balustrade at about 1300. Wooden capping to the steel balustrade not costed yet.

@nod have you ever used any low profile matting (bal, larsen, kerrakoll), long story short I think I might have cocked up with the threshold height on my front door so I think every mm I can save will count, either that or admit to the missus I've made a mistake and live in the doghouse until I can replace the front doorset...

haha, i wish, I'm battling with a shower tray waste that came with a shower tray. These things are I think are designed just to cause lots of head scratching and multiple days worth of googling to identify the right bits just to connect a few bits together.

This sort or widget Tap Extension - 1/2" M x 1/2" F - 10222 Can be got in various lengths

Appreciate your words @Gus Potter, I'm slightly embarrassed to comment as I don't know much about this kind of thing (staircase fabrication), naively I'd get a design on paper, double check dimensions, colour etc then pay me money and fingers crossed it'll turn up ready to fit... the company I have been chatting with deal with a joinery firm to deliver whatever timber treads I want to meet spec and are regs compliant (<100mm gap), They'd also fabricate the steel balustrade too. Kind of assumed (naively) that the welds and steel and powdercoating would turn up and be good for a domestic setting? As I'd not designed this in from building design, I already have a floor buildup of 7mm screed on top of 150mm pir, above block and beam floor. UFH pipes are in the floor, but only 4 right down the middle, so a footplate could be made wide enough to straddle and if needed mechanical fixings can be made without any bother. Top of the stairs is a 1m wide double 225*47 trimmer What sort of other questions ought I be asking?

Ooh, now them I like... Love the idea that they'll do bespoke sizes too.

That’s interesting and funny you say that as I purchased some big plasterboard sized abacus elements sheets from rubber duck and they were a little coarser in surface finish.

it cant hurt, the only inconvenience is time to do. You are one step ahead of me... My jackoboard is up on the wall, but I forgot to order in the membrane paint in time, so that job is having an enforced pause for the weekend. @Thorfun I remember you used jacko, did you tape over the washers and screws outside of the wet zones with scrim tape?

google tells me that scrim is used to bridge cracks and holes, so I'd have thought not.

same, but for basins and baths, although likely to be concealed by furniture or under the bath I just used these to keep pipework orderly, then a hep to 1/2 transition into and 1/2 to 15mm press fit (as I've got a tool for this) transition out for the bath, or to a 1/2" grohe (or similar) iso valve for the basin. Probably more complicated than it needed to be, but just looks right to my eyes.

transitioning from hep to copper and bringing pipework out of the wall neatly at a guess. Well it was when I was playing at plumbing!

Nice! I think we'll be favouring steel rather than glass on the balustrade, flat plate or bar with timber capping, something like below. I've not been in contact with the fabricator this week. Just sleeping on the decisions for a week! or

used pinks last week for some metal framing stuff that my local BM's didnt have. Got a phone call 30 minutes after online order to confirm delivery date. Delivery driver rang when he was on the way. Delivery truck had one of those 3 wheel fork lifts too. All in all, one of the better companies I've used.

I have this attic truss, that while acclimatising and drying out has bowed somewhat on the bottom joist, wouldn’t be a problem, but…. It’s one that I will need to board over forming my stairwell. My stud wall was plumb to the top of the joist, but the bottom 1/3 of it now bends out by about 5mm from the wolf plate towards the newel post. The truss is doubled up, so I’d thought about taking the angle grinder with sanding disk to remove the offending timber. Or I could Pack out all the studs to make good, which will be a ball ache and least favourable route. Or would Double boarding, screwing the first and then dot and dabbing the 2nd. I don’t know, how would this be dealt with in real life? Thx Marek