elite

As above, you need mass your best option is probably MLV PB sandwich Is the space primarily for rehearsals or recording?

Pay particular attention to detailing on doors / windows, these will be your biggest problem. Is that a french door to the left of control room? It will probably be more leaky than others. Consider making stud walls double & decoupled Check your room ratios aren't going to cause acoustic issues I suspect you'll want the room pretty "dead" at that sort of size, so incorporate absorbers / bass traps in the design early on A great resource: https://johnlsayersarchive.com/ Keep us updated on your progress

Looks like a warm roof from the exterior pic. Ventilation through the wall if possible to avoid penetrations to the roof

Presumably you want the reatining wall to be stabalised, so I would be helpful as far as possible without it negatively impacting you significantly. What were the nature of the works you undertook to dig out? Was anyone involved to assess the impact on the wall? It is good that you have photos of the wall before works were undertaken

Just on your diagram - I'd keep services in the space between the plasterboard and the insulation if at all possible, just make sure your cables are run in the correct zones. One tip, if you have at least one socket on each wall, you can run the cable horizontally around whole room, making it easier to add extra sockets in the future. 🍻

Either insulation fixings or plasterboard adhesive foam 🤷‍♂️ - make sure you tape over any fixings Work Go for as much as you can afford / space allows Good question - I'd want a mechanical fixing in there, maybe foil tape over? I'd do some research on best approach. The wall I have done this on has a stud wall in front of it, so no penetrations as fixed to ceiling and floor Work out the biggest depth you need, might be easier with fast fix boxes, but I'm never as happy with them as a proper backbox

Ventilation comment was for the room, not for the walls I was proposing a single continuous layer of PIR, then battens. So your build up from outside in would be: Existing block wall PIR, gaps and joins foamed and taped Battens Plasterboard

Continous layer of PIR with battens at 600mm in front of it giving you a service void? Need to consider ventilation, reveals need some thought too

Loftzone do a product that looks more stable than the cheap legs: https://www.loftzone.co.uk/shop-storefloor/storefloor/?attribute_kit-size=Starter+Kit+1.2m+x+2.4m Another member did an install here:

I'm just shy of 42 degrees, and if I wasn't constrained with it being a renovation and ceiling clearances etc I would have gone shallower. That said it doesn't feel wrong, just not as perfect as you would want in dream build

The outdoor units will have specs of how much space required around them. I don't think N, S, E, W will have a big impact so go with wherever it will be least annoying athestically and acousticly (e.g. don't put next to bedroom window), and factor in pipe runs. Are you having an unvented cylinder for hot water? I would go with a plant room (large cupboard) to house UVC, UFH manifold and controls

Login to your router, look for the list of connected devices and identify the NVR? Have rebooted both technomates? - I don't have them, but could be worth a shot? Verify you can reach the NVR on your local network, if you can, then look at the app/remote side of things

Is the connection to the NVR wired or wireless to the router? Can you login to the NVR? Do as @Pocster suggests to check it is on the router and to get the IP I'd be checking the following, depending if they are required by the app Port forwarding UPNP DDNS

Love a hairbrained scheme... There is an interesting series of videos for an overshot wheel here, but obviously you would need it to be undershot. The wheel did have to be rebuilt as the driveshaft snapped

Felt is cheaper, but has a shorter life expectancy. I would be considering EPDM or GRP - I have EPDM on the renovation extention (replaced leaky felt roof) and on the garden room. 5 years on with the garden room and no delamination or wrinkles, only two years on the renovation but no issues when I was up there a couple of months ago. Garden room was onto OSB (cheaper than ply), Renovation was onto existing deck (ply). The nice thing about rubber is that there are no joins (assuming a simple roof and you can get it big enough), and it can expand and contract

I think that'll be tight. If you google "bathroom planner", some retailers have a 3d planner that will give you a basic idea of sizes etc I draw up in sketchup once I have a rough idea

Why does entrance hall require 2 access points? I'd probably run at least 4 to at least each main TV point as they soon get used up and most face plates will be 4 gang Consider additional PoE camera positions, even if cameras not installed. I'd probably go Ubiquiti, UDM Dream Machine Special Edition, Pro 48 PoE switch and access points. Check your PoE requirements before committing Go for keystone patch panels, much easier to work with

When I looked at this a couple of years ago, the Hormann sectional doors LPU42 and LPU67 looked the best, or at least were one of the few that provided what looked like sensible specification which came to a 1.4 W/m2k

You shouldn't need a switch assuming you have enough ports on your router. You can configure using unifi network server (I think it's called), a cloud key or something like UDM pro. I run my router in bridge mode and have a UDM pro doing the routing, but previously I have used cloud key and the software.

Not a SIP roof, but I used UPVC fascia board on my garden room, with the EPDM kerb trims added on top

I'd start by checking the gutters and fixing, making sure there is sufficient capactiy to take the water from next door if they are unable to have their own down pipe Bathroom and kitchen need an extractors What temperature is the house kept at when unoccupied?

I'd be very surprised if it wasn't possible to "unlock" directly on the device - maybe it was easier for them to do remote access than talk the customer through it? What was the actual fault/fault code? I have a solax inverter, it does connect to the internet to email me stats, but other than that it functions fine without connectivity

I think it is meant to be vented, to prevent any build up of gas - I think there is a certain amount of leakage that is permissable and obvs you wouldn't want that to build up.

You can get heat recovery extractors. Failing that you could put a fused spur in the bathroom as long as it's outside of zones and protected by RCD - I'm not a spark, so you would need to check exact regs

Just make sure you double check how the power consumpsion compares to newer models and if you will be happy with noise levels if they have fans