elite

Thanks - yes G3 for UVC, so going to stick immersion in buffer, wall mount the thing to give me the height for G3.

Thanks @Nickfromwales and everyone much appreciated I was planning for an immersion for backup, so will rejig things for G3. I think I can gain the height needed by wall / shelf mounting the buffer with my network cabinet below rather than above - pray for no leaks 🙏

I didn't know that - thanks It was supplied with one 🤷‍♂️ - I guess becuase it is a sealed system, but I'm happy to be corrected and delete it if possible It is a heat pump, hoping to avoid glycol and go with antifreeze valve

Just planning the plant room, and there will be a cool energy buffer tank in there. Space is a little tight, so I was wondering if the the PRV on the buffer needs full G3, (e.g. tundish, 300mm etc) or if it can just go straight into waste? I suspect it does need full G3, but hoping it doesn't Thanks

Don't see why not, IIRC the PIR is just glued with the edges taped with silver tape to protect them

I went with one of these easy enough to fit once you have the correct opening https://www.jupiterblue.co.uk/loft-hatches-c2/standard-range-c9/airtight-loft-hatch-560-x-640mm-hinged-patented-design-p221

LABC have some details on their site: https://www.labcwarranty.co.uk/technical-blog/fully-supported-single-skin-metal-roofs I'd proboably be tempted by insualted panels - e.g. something like (https://www.colourcladprofiles.com/collections/insulated-panels) - not used so not a recommendation. But I suspect this might help to reduce noise from the tin roof

Wired for me, if at all possible - the quinetic stuff looks to be decent and is clever, might be useful for stair / landing and outside lights if you forgot a cable, but a step too far for me to go wireless for everything

I'm happy with my Fusebox double decker, think that was about £150 for the bare board, but as @ProDave says the existing CUs can probably be used. Hager are certianly well regarded boards

Can be tricky to terminate an SWA into a henley, so the henleys would probably need an enclosure, which might be why they have gone straight into the board. It does beg the question why they haven't used a duplex board that handles passing the line and neutral down to the second board though

I'd avoid branches in 4mm as terminating is a pain and you want to avoid junctions Have you calculated the expected load for each circuit? I'd be surprised if most couldn't be handled on a 20 amp or 16 amp radial in 2.5mm - A 32amp 4mm circuit would be circa 7kw.

Picked up a landroid L last autumn with an offer they had on their ebay store for about £350 - I think they have a new model due out, so look for offers. I've only just deployed it, but my findings so far: Cuts well, though it does a random pattern, so obvs no stripes Wire positioning has taken some tweaking, my lawn is on a slope and although wire was placed at required distance, it struggles at the bottom of the slope where there is a 5 cm drop to the path, so I have had to take the wire back a bit which means I will need to manually tidy up this edge, the other edges all work fine The stock wheels do struggle if our soil is wet as they clog up, the only problems this seems to cause is a) increased wheel slippage b) sometimes struggles to dock - our dock is on a slight incline (against manufactures recommendations) which probably doesn't help. I've ordered some aftermarket wheels that I hope will help, and will probably rellocate the dock On the whole pretty happy with it, and much nicer to sit back with a beer watching it work than doing the graft myself

Never done a bathroom specifically for noise other than insulation on the poo pipe to reduce flush noise in the room below Most people wouldn't spec more than wall insulation - maybe you could go for thicker or double wall to get more in? From my previous life in recording studios, adding mass (plasterboard, or even mass loaded vinyl sandwiched between two layers), would be the way to go Your weak point will be the door, especially with MVHR as the gaps will allow noise to escape

Mass loaded vinyl double layer of PB thick acoustic insulation ?

Are you getting a http status code back -v flag in curl - postman in chrome will prob give you this too? - this might give a clue as to an error (prob 5** range) or not found 4** - Is it definatley device ID 2? This should begiving you a 200 if all is good Happy to cast a second pair of eyes over the german advice if you want to PM

What service are you connecting to?

Works for me - things I'd check Weird characters in api key - should've been fixed with quotes Is the URL / path you're hitting 100% correct? Try with verbose flag (-v)

Add quotes around the URL? curl -XPUT -H "Content-type: application/json" -d "{\"configured\": true}" "http://IP:PORt/api/APIKEY/sensors/ID/config"

What error are you getting? I think windows isn't a fan of the single quotes on the json - try escaping the inner ones curl -XPUT -H "Content-type: application/json" -d "{\"configured\": true}" http://IP:PORt/api/APIKEY/sensors/ID/config

I'm using Sketchup Make 2017, which was the last free windows version I think. Only thing I miss, is that they have disabled access to the 3dwarehouse for old versions. I'm sure there is probably a way around this, but not needed it yet

Worth checking what temp the immersion is set to, could be this is set lower than the temp the boiler is heating to, therefore you will be using much more water from the UVC when heated by the immersion

Tank was installed with two heaters, I believe this is quite common, the idea being that you don't have to heat the entire tank if you don't require the entire volume of water. Diverter was added later when solar PV was installed. As @SteamyTea says worth checking to see if a second element can be easily added

My tank has two elements, one at the top and one at the bottom. My diverter is set to heat the top element first, then will heat the lower one when the top one is satisfied

I think you need passive POE rather than active POE? A Passive PoE switch is, as you might think, very similar to an active PoE switch, with one notable exception. In PoE, the switch and the remote equipment actually communicate and negotiate the proper voltage and the pins to use for the transfer of electrical power. In passive PoE, no negotiation takes place between the two devices and power is simply drawn from the switch. PoE can supply devices up to 100m away, whereas Passive PoE is limited to 30m.