elite

It depends on the setup I usually prefer sockets, but often you will need HDMI or other connectors too

As above - I've never regretted running an extra cable, but I have regretted not running an extra cable when I've had to mount some ugly mini switch somewhere to give me an extra port ! Patchbays give you a lot of flexibility, @IanR mentioned POE, but you can also patch telephone, video, etc that you may not want to terminate in a switch. For example, the CT clamp for our solar diverter runs from the distribution board, through our patchbay, and out to the device, not going through the switch

Consider running at least two cables to each location - I would run 4 to main TV position Cable to each CCTV camera position I would wire back to a patch panel, rather than direct to the switch Consider small 19" rack and devices with rack ears to keep it neat Some switches can have very noisy fans Think about which devices require POE and make sure your switches can provide the standard of POE required Most ISPs will only "officialy" support their supplied modem/router, though you can use your own with most. I use my own and would just swap out for the ISP supplied one if they were trying to tell me a line fault was due to me running my own gear. I run Draytek router/modem, netgear switches and Ubiquiti wifi with no complaints. Would probably be tempted to go all ubiquiti if starting from scratch now

You can knock a scribe tool up from an offcut, use a compass, a washer or splash the cash https://www.amazon.co.uk/Swanky-Scribe-Set-Pencils-Carpenters/dp/B07WBZ1N24/

Is that the finished gap or will it be wider? If wider, I would scribe some trim to fit the gap and attach this to packers between the side of the wardrobe and the wall set back to the depth of the trim. Might be tricky if you are already tight against the wall

Yes I believe so, as long as your strips are dimmable of course (the vast majority - if not all - are)

RGBW2s should be good for 144W @ 12v and 288W @ 24v, so if your strips are using less than that you should be good The manual includes wiring diagrams for both RGBW and one colour strips - I believe you can run 4 single colour strips off 1 module

I run zwave on openhab, so no specific HC3 advice. 1 module per circuit Dimmer 2 for 240v (GU10) - vesternet have some useful diagrams for different configurations (e.g. 2 way switching) https://www.vesternet.com/pages/apnt-137-standard-2-way-lighting-circuit-using-fibaro-dimmer-2. I only run RGBWW strips, but I think the RGBW2 would work fine for both single colour and RGBWW

Or can you track where you are in the playlist, inject your audio for the door, then resume where the playlist was up to?

Not sure it does - think you have to press the talkover button? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274822256367?hash=item3ffcaed6ef:g:oQkAAOSwgJ5gujfD https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184875737701?hash=item2b0b73e265:g:iDgAAOSw0~pgvkoT You would also some kind of audio mixer (with inserts), which would push the price up too, but you might have this already to combine the 3 pis?

Something like Alesis 3630 - not renowned for being a brilliant compressor, but should be more than good enough for the job https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194189465188 Manual here - has section on side chain and ducking https://www.alesis.com/products/view/3630-compressor You set the amount of gain reduction you want on the main audio signal - so mute or just turn it down, this kicks in when a certain threshold is reached on the side chain input from RP3

It is commonly called "auto ducking" in the audio/DJ world - for when the DJ talks over those disco classics Usually done with an audio compressor with a sidechain input - RP3 would go into the side chain, controlling the compression on the main audio feed

Wish I had known about this about 3 years ago, scared the **** out of me as the glass shattered. Velux did come out next day with a replacement unit