elite

I don't think it is a cause for concern, but your towel rail will be trying to heat everythinig else on that circuit

You can get dual fuel ones, you just need to isolate from your main heating system when you're using the electric element

Another vote for genius hub here - I have this tied in to home assistant, so the sensors are also available there

I've not got any experience with Loxone, but have you looked at HomeAssistant or Openhab to tie your existing devices together

Identify weak points - probably windows and doors Add mass - double layer of plasterboard or acoustic plasterboard Renting will limit what you can do, so ultimately you might better looking to move if it is unbareable. You could possibly look at sound deadening curtains - heavier and more layers better, but obviously not as effective as adding mass

https://www.juanmtech.com/location-tracking-with-owntracks-http-mode-and-home-assistant/

An app installed on her phone that will do geofencing (https://owntracks.org/ maybe?), then turn off x seconds after she joins wifi Re mesh, I'm on unifi here and can see which AP a device is connected to, assume that is possible on ASUS?

Good to know, they do look smart 🤞 they keep support, always a worry with devices tied to external services

@pocsterHave there been any issues with Andersen going into administration and subsequent buy out by Evios?

Are they using the ROW in accordance with the deeds? I don't believe there is any limit to the number times they may excercise pass and repass, though obviously that does not allow them to abuse you and your family, or require you to not to use your property as long as you are not obstructing the ROW Have you seen the gardenlaw forum? There is a lot of useful info on there

I struggled using pir for rooms where you might sit still for long periods, the best solution I've found is checking which wireless access point our phones are connected to, though obviously this requires you to have many access points. I manage it though openhab, but I'm sure possible with others

Difficult to advise without knowing your layout, I would look to locate your network stuff in a central location - under the stairs maybe? Then look to terminate all your CAT cables there I'm not sure I'm going to bother with COAX other than at the main TV location as everyone is now streaming, but obviously it is a lot easier to run cables during construction than afterwards. If your build allows I would recommend running some kind of coduit / ducting to allow pulling new cables easier

I had ground elder and treated it over time by painting Glyphosate with a paintbrush, tedious, but it meant it only reached the target and as I also keep bees it kept it away from them I wouldn't worry too much about dogs after it has dried unless they have a habit of eating what you have sprayed

@fletcher5555 The project has be delayed by a structural wall that needed to be rebuilt or more accurately replaced with a steel. Once the steel is in place, we'll be putting various test pits in as the property has been extended over the years.

So the lower sockets are on a proper ring? Then yes, you should be good to spur one socket from each, though I would probably extend the ring Is the junction accessible? If not I would move this to spur from a socket

I've used Formula B in the past, and it did the trick. Make sure bait is protected from non target species and is placed in known rat runs. Also keep bait topped up until it is no longer being taken for a week or so. If using live traps, consider trapped rats can be fairly feisty, and have a plan for how you are going to dispose of them humanely or how you will transport them and where you will release them - needs to be quite some distance away and certain species should not be released. Depending on your location you my find someone who has a good ratter dog or wants some shooting practice

Many thanks @Olf & @Gone West I'll sound out a friendly SE and then see where it is best to go from there

Thanks @Gone West The house is not on mains gas, so the plan is for heating to be provided by ASHP, my understanding is that this runs more efficiently at lower flow temps, so would be better suited to UFH than increased sized rads? How would you tackle this? Just dig out the bare earth area and fill with concrete?

I'm in the early stages of renovating a cottage and am considering the options for the ground floor. This was previously quarry tiles mostly onto concrete, but some onto earth. In an ideal world the finished floor would be UFH, but to acheive that I would need to dig down for DPM, concrete and insulation - I can't afford to lose any height in the rooms due to low ceilings. Can anyone advise on depth I need to dig down and the prefered make up of the floor? Also, I am not sure of foundations, the more recent extension (1960s?), presumably has them, but the earlies part 1800(?) I guess might not. How do I know how deep it is safe to dig down? Thank you for any guidance!

Yes, I think most (probably all), will use your monthly allowance then charge you at their normal rates

I'm using what @Temp mentioned above - I have zero phone signal here, and now use wifi calling with three (wife does same on EE), doesn't need a base station/booster but does require a compatible handset and network - search for "wifi calling". Seems to work well for calls and texts if you have good wifi and reasonable internet

Probably sorted long ago, but hotpoint error F06 seems to relate to an issue with the door lock

If I was your neighbour I wouldn't be too happy with the look/fitting, but it is their roof. What is the damage to your roof? I would probably focus my energy there

Include cables for WIFI access points I would go for IP cameras for CCTV - so just run network cables to these For wifi, go with a mesh rather than an extender - I use the ubiquiti stuff, these run on POE, so will need a switch that can supply that to the required standard Yes Your router's LAN connection can just be connected to one of the ports on your switch In an ideal world, your BT master socket would be in the central location (node 0), if that isn't possible, I would probably aim to have your ISP router connected to the master socket with a network cable back to your switch.