Dave Jones

If its not a fire escape window make it non-opening (remove handles). Get signed off, re-attach handles.

have enough room to make a zig-zag or move the entrance ? one of the many reason some plots are cheaper than others!

agree, i made one for doing the latches out of 2 pieces of batten and an offcut of mdf. it sits tight to the floor so no measuring to get the latch routed at exactly the right height. can never have too many jigs really, from piloting for handles in kitchen to routing skirting to save time scribing (route the whole stack one after the other). A really good chippy to follow on utube is The Tall Carpenter, he has many many jigs to save himself time.

cheap 1/4" router and a jig. Can do the lot and its bang on. Trend sell the kits.

any reason for pre-hung ? howdens do a 20 quid ply door and a 5 pound handle latch pack.

bear in mind a decent shower is 12-17L/M, the female of the species tend not to take 5 minute showers i find. If everyone wants a shower each morning plan accordingly. Nothing worse than a cold shower on a cold morning!

pointless waste of time. screed takes care of it.

piling much cheaper, but if its graven hill con site all bets are off

just have wifi, all iphones and modern androids support wifi calling.

the goal is to airtight the story below obviously. If you have a parapet wall then you can lap up but have to take account of cold bridging. It's hard to get a warm roof correct.

you want the vapour barrier going down onto the internal walls not up.

looks like you have scope for build height which you are going to need. The soil pipe isnt an issue really, ok you are going to lose a little performance but no more than current. The build up needs to be: rip it all off to expose joists. OSB 12/18 mm covering. now the bit you have to get right. A decent vapour barrier (not plastic sheet) such as Alutrix, it needs to seal against all 4 walls front and back so there is zero air flow from inside the rooms into the roof. bring it ip 300mm tight around the soil pipe (there are videos showing how to do this detail. Insulate, look at kingspan thermataper to save having to use firring strips. it comes glass backed ready to bond edpm too. thermally broken mushrooms to pin it all down. covering with edpm or whatever takes your fancy. get the VCL wrong it will fill with water and black mould in no time. Have a look at steve the roofer on youtube he gets called out to so called warm roofls less than a year old with missing VCL that are black with mould and have to ripped out.

you need to cost your big unknown the foundation. Have you had a ground test done by an SE? What about a warranty ? Provision for hiring plant, telehandler etc ?? Then get the plans properly QS'd its cheap and you will have every brick, block and nail costed. Unless you are funding the build from cash the bank will want this anyway. Very lucky to get it under £2.5k m2 and thats with a lot of work and time for free coming from you.

you would have to ask them. Saving in purchasing electricity is an incidental benefit really.

lets not forget electric cars and vehicle to grid, big capacity batteries. The ability to time shift demand to only every pay cheap rate is a massive money saver. 95+% of my bill is charged at 9.52p kw/h. I'm sure there is the possibility to arbitrage this with the octopus tariff which pays you to export.

I think solar without a battery is really losing out. As for cost, I look at the system just as i would a kitchen or bathroom. Our solar+powerwall is saving/earning over £10 a day for the last few months. Not counting the FIT.

holes are nothing to worry about. cant see any evidence of how the room below is going to be air sealed from the roof makeup to prevent the transition of moisture into the insulation and becoming trapped. the same level of insulation should be applied externally to the roof light upstand.

the roof has to come off and be redone properly. It will just fill with mould as the moisture cannot get out. The proper make up should be, from inside: OSB board across joists. adhesive VCL such as alutrix lapped down all the walls. Zero penetrations for lights or cables. insulation such as kingspan thermataper to avoid having the hassle of firring strips. waterproof top, edpm etc BCO are mostly kids straight out of a college course with no real world experience and are often limited only to what they can see at the visit.

you dont want 400 centres as you will have loads of waste, you want 400 gaps to get 3 rips out of a sheet with zero waste.

use galv nails they are stronger. 90mm

use 2 standard 7n blocks flat one on top of the other.

the only objections that count are valid planning policy objections. tittle tattle, my house value has gone down, etc etc are all nonsense and wont make a jot of difference. If you have been operating for 7 years or more then sod all they can do anyway. If its your livelihood probably wise to spend a couple hundred on a planning specialist to give you piece of mind.

you have a cold roof, why bother ?

no vapour control barrier shown on the drawings, absolutely critical. Alutrix is the best. Look at kingspan thermataper insulation, you can adhere EDPM directly to it saving the cost of 1 layer of decking.

get a wider drip bead so it comes all the way down