Dave Jones

The regs dont even force you to have a ramp, you can have a step. Disabled access doesnt have to be front door either, can be anywhere. Ask for the section of building regs they are quoting.

not considered spray, im not a fan of it really. ill be taping all the joints prior to plasterboarding paying extra attention to the unboarded area between pozi's to get them tight. I'll leak test before floors go down to track down any leaks.

i did look at that but unconfirmable hanging 80m2 of flooring, bathrooms etc on just a few screws through a ledgerboard. My plan is to encase the end of the pozi as much as possible so the wall insulation is as continues as possible. It really does need an engineered solution as there are literally millions of solid wall homes unsuitable for EWI that at some point will have to be modernised. Keeping an eye on simpson to come up with a thermally broken hanger.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325252579211?hash=item4bba907f8b:g:AHIAAOSwEHpfCf1~

brick rate not day rate. Massive can of worms when it inevitably goes tits up.

yes this, they overcome the majority of the frame now sitting within the insulation which makes it hard to smash a 100mm conc screw through the lot.

went for Zehnder Q350 with a Comfopost CW6 cooling unit for heat pump cooling in the summer.

initially sticking the pir to the existing plastered walls with megastick and dropping in some thermally broken fixings where needed, then megastick plasterboard over and skim as normal. https://www.phstore.co.uk/insulation-fixings/ejot-h1-eco Joist hangers for the pozi is a compromise as there isnt a thermally broken hanger on the market, I've asked simpson! Did look at ledger board but not happy its strong enough so will use masonry hangers and wrap/foam them best I can to seal the ends. The window reveals are hard work, grinding out a 150mm box all around them to make sure the insulation can be overlapped by the window frames. Wonder if you could do similar on the internal walls where the join the external to get some insulation slid in without weakening them too much ?

300mm of EPS is 0.132 much cheaper than phenolic. do the math. muck away of an extra 200mm of soil or pay extra for celtex.

new builds who owns what on the boundries has to be part of the legals pack. pretty standard stuff. May even have recourse to the warranty company. Code of practice etc etc Either way addressing legals is first step as its a legal issue.

if you dont have any insulation in the slab you will be wasting ££££ in heating .

i have pretty much an identical project on the go, 1908 house. 9" solid wall etc First on the list for us is internal wall insulation on 3 walls (4th is dropped for extension), 100mm celotex stuck and fixed including cut 150mm ish all round the windows to ensure insulation is continuous to the reveals. Ground floor similar setup but im using 300mm of EPS as its cheaper than celotex and has a better U value. The 100mm wall insulation will be lapped right down onto it to make a fully insulated box. We are also dropping all the internal walls at the same time so we can pozi joist the whole build including extension to make MVHR/plumbing/elec etc easier. Obviously couldn't do this while living there so that is a limitation if you need to stay there during the refurb.

dont bother with multiple stats upstairs. one underfloor loop (no room stats). How much insulation you putting under the floor screed ?

yes thats realistic. It's cheap for some plots and expensive for others. sanity check. Get a RICS valuation (bank will insist anyway if your borrowing) and see what end build will be worth. Then see if your math adds up.

ask the solicitor you used to buy the house what he is going to do to sort it out or you report them to the ombudsman.

and vents at the eaves ?

i'll be fitting one during our build so will see how it does, i plan on insulating the waste runs to it from all the showers.

i foamed our register plate all around the edge prior to screwing it onto the angle iron. cemented/fire rope the stove pipe where it goes through the register plate. One of those jobs have to do each year as the cement does tend to crack/flake due to the hot/cold cycle.

could always wrap the ducting in this insulated ducting, would be overkill but more is better right. https://www.screwfix.com/p/manrose-aluminium-insulated-flexible-ducting-hose-silver-10m-x-102mm/90765

looks to me like it pissed down with rain when that muck was wet. A good acid clean and see how it looks, worst case its a bit of repointing nothing major.

https://recoupwwhrs.co.uk/documents/Recoup_WWHRS-Energy_Statement_Overview-Specification_Outline.pdf

megastick is brilliant for sticking plasterboard. Ilbroook foams are expensive but very good.

seen a timber frame build levelled with window packers so you should be ok!

another reason sheds/timber frames are an expensive option. Unless the plan is in tight to get fully water tight and bricked up externally in 4-6 weeks then the speed advantage of a shed build is wasted.

those mini piling figures are tosh. Seen screw piles used before to underpin, clean and quick. https://www.abcanchors.co.uk/access-all-areas-underpinning-with-helical-piles/