Dave Jones

what sort of price are they ? Some nice designs.

no cavity closers ? much better job to build them in as you go for airtightness later on.

will be cheaper to pile if you go over 2m. Private building control indemnity limit for us was 2m anyway which meant warranty needed an engineered solution. You will need an SE to design the footing, expect piles, steel ringbeam and no change from £30- £50k

put the level on the screen it will be miles out at the bottom surely ? photo ?

not sure about that. Has the OP actually seen a copy of the builders contract works insurance ? Do they even have any at all ? I would highly doubt it as its expensive. Get a quote for contract works for say 300k of works and you be looking at 1% minimum cost. Builder wont be doing that for free so unless they given you a copy of the policy assume it doesnt exist.

who says its a habitable room ? Attached garages for example don't count.

all BCO will want is a certificate from an approved body from the sparky proving test and passed following the pre-plaster inspection. Obviously need fans in kitchen, utilty, wc,s etc along with heat / smoke/ co2 as a minimum if needed to get signed off. Cant see not putting on a few sockects and light switches will save much to be honest.

sounds like false economy for plumb and wiring. 1st fix is fast and relatively cheap as its only cable, tube and labour. how is a sparky meant to wire a single room and leave all the wires rolled up someplace ? I'd expect to be charged more for this as its a load of hassle. Not a common sense idea.

galv nails, if you must use screws stainless steel as they will rust.

with no room stat is measured the temperature of the flow and return and modulates based on that. Assuming you have rads (undefloor works same) the TRV valve in the room with burner would click off so the other rooms would heat up and click off as normal. The woodburner having the effect of speeding it up.

12kw is massive. trying to heat buck house ?

completely agree, the market is too young to ditch normal cars for at least another 20 years. Watch the clueless commies in no 10 though still try and force it through.

more importantly if your stood on your garden taking the photo, id want all the rubble moved and 150mm of clean topsoil put back.

what is the wall/loft insulation ? maxing this out everywhere is step1. Tried blackout blinds in the day to keep out the heat ? Canopies etc for doors ? Anything passive is cheap to run 24 x 7! No ventilation at night is going to be a massive issue. Cheapest will be one of the mobile units with a through wall dryer type vent.

that would annoy me big time. If you paid to get it fitted have them back to correct it. It's a days work tops.

if your approved elevations dont change crack on and keep schtum. Impossible for them to know. You could always finish the rest get it signed off, wait 28 days then finish the loft room under permitted dev. Depends how delaying things work for you I guess.

hottest day of year for us yesterday at 32C. ASHP had been running at 15c for last 48 hours, was using around 4kwh of electric, including some DHW. Ground floor averaged 22C, bedrooms with fancoils were actually a tad cooler at 21C. The dewpoint was above our set temp at 17C and the UFH manifold did have a some condensation on it but nothing from the fancoils, the piping through them runs through pozi's which are stuffed full of rockwoll. I think the main contribution is the air tightness and level of insulation but very happy with the results. Aircon level performance is possible with just a heat pump.

may be cheaper to jsut double counter batten with 2x1 than 1.5x1.5 as your architect has suggested (they are clueless on wasting your money with pointless expensive options). graded (red, green, blue coloured) is pretty cheap although our local BCO was fine with the cheaper bog standard 2x1

looking at chopping in the runaround for an id3 as the Scalextric car market is on its arse at the moment so deals to be had. I see the VW ID platform supports vehicle to home turning the car into a massive house reserve. With 11.5kw possible via a wallbox2 car charger on single phase, the arbitrage possibilities on octopus agile would be very attractive especially come winter and more freqent negative energy costs. Anyone gone down this rabbit hole yet ?

They are supplied made to size and braced not loose lengths. You don’t need them at eaves as you want the cavity insulation to meet the loft insulation

paperwork and can safely be ignored. the bun fight only starts if a)someone gets hurt and H&S get invlilved. b)financial loss that someone other than you is expected to pay for.

that detail would keep me up at night come the autumn and leaves blowing about.

subframes.co.uk i got ours from, 150mm cav were about £18 per opening (including doors).

yeah lets close down our only steel furnace to we can just import it. That will make us really green. idiotic and dangerous nonsense. You can do whatever you want its the forcing the rest of us to assist in your delusions that is the issue. Socialist/fascist mentality that has infected the education system and youth thanks to the useless education system.

not good. 1. the pitch is far too flat for those rosemary tiles, they should be absolute minimum of 35deg pitch otherwise will let water through. 2. dont need DPC under wall plate but it wont hurt either. 3. yes should have had padstones under steel - didnt building control pick this up ? 4. you can see the batten on first row as there isnt the pitch to hide it, doesn't help they haven't used eaves tray and found the most bowed eaves tiles ever made to kick it up even more. 5. the exposed virge mess could be covered up with dry kit (should have been dry from start really). I'd be wanting that covering taking off, making a warm deck if you have the hight and covering with rubber. Come winter and driving rain will have water inside and then you are hoping on the felt which wont last. How much did you pay for the job ? £25k and i wouldnt be happy, £15k and its about right.