Dave Jones

last build went 7106 on windows outside, white inside and a black front door to key in with black dry virges. looked good. I'd recommend flush sash windows as well, more expensive than normal upvc but the profile is soo much better. https://www.eurocell.co.uk/specifiers/windows/modus-windows

im amazed you find a timber frame cheaper than block or brick. What size are we talking and timber frame price ?

even better, get them to connect onto it assuming you having got underfloor pipes in the screed.

looking at the second picture you posted can just see the lintel over what looks to be another sewer run, guessing it goes to the outlet in the middle of the room ? I'd get the builder to cut out that bit of floor inside and connect into that run and do away with that 90 hanging out the wall will look so much better.

bit late now but we had ours built of brick so no need to plaster. Went to the local reclamation yard and found some ancient flag stones 4" thick for the hearth.

did same above a gable window lintel, struct eng specified a HD catnic, the brickie wasnt happy with the defelection in it and added a pre-cast conc little to the inner skin at the back of it to stiffen it up. Cheap way to belt and braces it to stop any movement.

sodium hypochlorite. spray on with 10 quid garden sprayer and leave it overnight. hosepipe it off or let the rain do it will be like new. No scrubbing required. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sodium-Hypochlorite-14-15-Patio-Cleaner-Swimming-Pool-Chlorine-10-Litres/293530139736?epid=11037962208&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4457c27c58:g:r7cAAOSwRsJehe7e&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkvjzWOStkxwnlDuxSI1PVVu8e5rlRA4HwQngsX5udberl6rRHs%2FMOJD89a35nRa2ilDubBNc9iASqP4F72mvHidM9vQ1Z9QMtIcU0mVQP24860dJKaXYXLXtz0RIzgKnX7jBBvFfVLHlxIhGmicbtM%2BAdWsFrEoMhWY2TTrrxJzInoZPOAgHSMvWmcPU0Hi6MVTWNnbzUsgXC1FKCqyRbeeOyZ4YeGeR8M7ItR%2Fn6Jwf09Fzll8dbfe7dlOOQPCI0cT8Rm3b4astrBVCPSVF0EQoNETEtT4bX4t20JbyI00OmvyZKEcQ23YrbPTVfIY1s7q8KEyKqpENP7ezld99QZGO0xwxa0PjqLuJfLZjkQxPs6p0IDI3V5gy%2FjQ97IpDuMhSS46D9%2BlbSe2wvaEixTR0h1S2e11sRco4pvicx5KM2aEmxl9VRfD90V%2BJFNg0C2bJyFBiR%2BNY8dWwilDp42ce9FMEnu%2B0gD7a0FwV0YobiEO88i0ZKit6EpfktrHxp5YXpT03vw%2BG5FuxJbarkoAOAQOcbEMmLKIbA5bYVT9WU0cNW1gkPUqqrjWKI8u%2BGxM56%2BmVfY9nN0U6XEw%2BwIXIFA6m7IwsoZvAVtb%2BP2KzfjZNTFKa1SrBlIC6PhDBBvPZmPNfQW1DbrL9ILqIJLDsI00b%2FTuxwhahwfG26%2Bspi0RwibHrWWPEojUiBnytz431rxp1KAO8zz4IQGatonNnel0vSbCtBJ5ejGPByxL1c3t47PfA8Vl8I9%2FmDuCk6Xiu5XkJhL07ANxOk2EfDUQ%3D%3D|cksum%3A29353013973641e3d213656a429db185ab70e2c2cacc|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524

The large skip hire places normally screen rubble or if they dont tell you who they take their rubble to. I think problem with limestone sometimes it comes very dusty which has the effect of locking it all together like conc when wet and compacted.

i cleared all ours with a 3 ton digger. Really doesn't matter how big the stump is dig all way round, use the narrowest bucket to give most force to snap all the roots. Then pull it out, the object being not to lift but drag roll the stump. Leave it dirt side up to dry out for a week (or 6 months the way the weather is at the moment lol) then pull as much dirt off it as you can to save weight on the muck away. If the hole is where you will be driving then stone it up with hardcore not dirt as it will settle a lot no matter how much you track over it. I wouldn't bother a 3cx they are so much more cumbersome than a mini, more fuel, make more mess moving around, cant get into small places, expensive to fix etc etc. For a self build id hire the mini and buy a telehandler.

Noticed your sewer coming out very high through the wall, appears to be through the screed on the inside. Did the builders forget to put it in before the foundations or a late addition ? Cant see a lintel over it either looks core drilled ? Has your building control seen it, maybe they are less strict your way ? https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/5-substructure-ground-floors-drainage-and-basements/5-3-drainage-below-ground/5-3-14-protection-of-pipework/ 90 bends are a big nono for our building control, cant see from that pic if it has a rodding eye built into it for unblocking but make sure there is one as it will be impossible to force a rod up two 90 degree bends from the chamber. Will also be hard to hide that as slabbing over will bring you to more than 150mm to DPC level unless you have a vertical DPC all way round ? Keep your eye on the builders !!

Chains ? you dig them out not pull ! 3 tonner will tackle pretty much anything here you don’t need to lift stumps , drag them.

guess it if its screened to get all the sharp, wire, crap thats in recycled out of it. Never had that much luck on our builds. Great for road construction though!

thats a lot of muck away, bearing in mind bulkiing could be looking at 80 x 8 wheeler loads. Try and find a local farmer and make friends!!!!

why goto the hassle of level threshold and still have the sill on the outside ? Maybe im missing something.

if we are talking pipe bedding the recylced stuff isnt any good, if your talking french drains then no prob!

interesting.... Want to be fully prepared for the 3 days a year it gets more than 20....

tell more! Can ASHP cool the slab as well ? Say 7c ?

10mm gravel 15/ton based on an 8 wheeler 20ton load. Those bulk bags are rarely a ton 800kg

Starting our next build in Jan, It will be a traditional brick and block construction and I'd like to incorporate MVHR with cooling and heat recovery. Heating will be underfloor on both ground and first floor. Pozi joists so will have plenty room for ducting. 275 m2 of floor area to service. thanks!

it cant really see it can be a trim as it has to form part of the window frame to stop water coming in. Think torrential downpour on your paving which are sitting the same height as your internal floor. 3 or 4mm of water against the door/glass needs to be stopped somehow otherwise it will run under your internal floor.

yep which is why you need a tray. You could take the window out, brick it up and it would still leak exactly the same I would wager. the little window above maybe has one under the cill which in effect is directing water ontop the new lintle https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/6-superstructure-excluding-roofs/6-1-external-masonry-walls/6-1-17-dpcs-and-cavity-trays/

no cav tray/weepers? I bet the water is wicking through the muck at the top of the lintle into the cavity, not helped by the sill of the window above certainly feeding water into it. Guessing the builder couldnt do a tray as the little window above was in the way for getting access to the inner skin to make the cav tray.

here is one of our bifolds, the finished floor (engineered oak that sits on the slab) is dead level with the porcelain outside, this leaves a 10mm upstand on the inside as a weatherseal. NHBC wouldn't sign off a true level threshold as they leak. Apparently there is a new profile system that can give level and no leaks but too new out for us to use in time. We put a very thin linear drain in front of door and tiled right upto it. To get around breaching DPC either side of the door we used a vertical DPC so actual DPC level is 12" above FFL.

there will definitely need to be an upstand on the inside, even a small one to provide a water barrier if you are looking to to a level threshold outside. It will 100% leak otherwise.

marshall brindle https://www.wickes.co.uk/Marshalls-Driveway-Block-Paving---Brindle-200-x-100-x-50mm/p/221000