Dave Jones

get a gas combi pronto!

buy a scanner and a shredder.

concrete posts give it the council sink estate feel, allways wood for me. Back to your original plan for slatted as this does look smart, I'm looking to do the same. I'm thinking of using marine ply staining the whole sheet whatever wood colour her indoors requires then ripping it down into 50mm strips. Put all the strips on edge and stain them in 1 go both sides. Wont tell the difference once its all up. Secret pin it to vertical treated roofing batten painted black (shadow gap style).

ask for copies of the supplier invoices for whats on site and pay them. Apart from the timber frame what else is done, are you able to have a tot up ? Builder probably has many jobs like yours not finished and needs cash so your likely to be easiest to tap.

disagree. Rest bends are designed for the foot of a stack. I'm sure using a 90 will be fine but still a bodge.

a length of pipe jutting out the slab is fine. The plumber will cut it to size when first fixing. There will be plenty of room for a coupler to go on it even if its direct coupled to a toilet.

how much you paying for us doing your coursework for you!

agreed. still a bodge.

you could of course just packer every pozi, goto your local metal bashing place and get legths of 100mm wide steel the same depth as your trying to pack and sit them all on that ?

They will just double them up either side, talk to them. We had a 1600 spacing where the stairs came up and they just just joist hangered all the short ones off a cross beam. Pozi's are amazing strong for puny bits of 3x2.

How are they bringing up the soil pipe through the slab/beam ? Can't see a valid reason for not using the correct part, note the leg under the rest bend to support it against the constant weight being dropped on it via the soil stack. Cheaper to bodge it and use a 90 ......

Save yourself a headache and fit it after you got a completion cert.

you have used long radius bends NOT rest bends. rest bends should be used as they have a foot under them to provide support to the stack. Y branch is fine also on a single run. lastly you must use rockers (double joins) where your pipes will be going through the wall under lintels.

because its cheaper for the developer and they sucker the customers into thinking they are getting more!

that porthole is the wrong shape!

Ah ok got ya. talk to your pozi supplier and see if they can do you a ladder arrangement. pozi either side of lintel and ladder (short pozi on joist hangers) the wide gap. Same principal used for stairs openings.

https://www.vent-axia.com/range/lo-carbon-multivent

the outside skin is not at issue the pozi sit on the internal skin so a think muck joint inside wouldnt matter.

Why have they mucked under the lintels anyway ? Every new build has these lintels and dont have wonkey floors what your brickies doing different ?

whilst not a fan of soldier cills thats some lovely brickwork, nice to see other people use modus flush sash profile windows. they look the dogs.

cant you get the brickes raise the muck bed of that row of blocks all the way round to sit flush with the lintels ?

i think you've hit the nail on the head. Every drop is dribbling down the front all over. Lead aprons above each opening would look pants. A lead skirt all the way round the roof maybe not so bad but would be like living inside a waterfall when it rains! Porch over the door maybe ? A bespoke curved gutter (lead maybe ?) would be more than replacing the wood with a non-rotting material?

Are you saying the blocks either side of the lintel are lower than the lintle? Have a photo of the problem ?

kitchen/diner = normal kitchen\diner+lounge = yuck. What's next open plan toilets !

.