Gone West

@Simon R IIRC, a couple of years ago, you fitted loose lay LVT in your house. Can you help with whether or not you needed an expansion gap by the walls. If not what was the make of your LVT?

The grey fittings look like a Hep2O MK1 reducer that was first introduced in 1991. I used the MK1 Hep2O system in 1994, it was updated in 1998.

Try this. https://professionals.tarkett.co.uk/en_GB/collection-C000115-inspiration-loose-lay-55

I don't know the company, just picked off the search list. I agree, not worth dealing with. If it's of any help we've been looking at Tarkett Inspirations, specifically the Classic range.

I think it's so there is some flexibility in siting the pump. I fitted a WPL Diamond STP and put the pump housing in the flower bed.

https://rfs.org.uk/learning/tremendous-trees/how-can-we-group-different-types-trees/ Angiosperm means ‘hidden seed’. These trees typically have flowers, in which seeds are hidden. The part of the flower where the seeds are produced is called the ‘fruit’ of the tree, but this is not necessarily ‘fruit’ like those we eat. These trees evolved alongside insects, birds and mammals and usually use them for pollination. You can think of Angiosperms as hardwood trees, such as oak and beech.

This is one site out of a few I've seen that say you don't need a gap. Maybe it's brand dependent, I hope so as we are hoping to use it without a gap. https://www.bricoflor.co.uk/flooring/vinyl/loose-lay.html Easy Installation, Easy Maintenance, Easy Removal: Loose Lay Vinyl Planks Loose lay vinyl flooring benefits from the newest and most innovative installation technology, thus allowing you to save time and money when you choose them over other products. To be more specific, Vinyl flooring simply makes use of physics to stay in place even without glue or other adhesives. The back of every vinyl tile is covered with a special material that has a very high coefficient of friction. That way, these tiles effectively get a strong grip on the subfloor underneath, so strong in fact, that you might not even be able to tell the difference between glue-down and loose-lay planks. But the difference becomes notable later if you need to remove or replace individual tiles. While vinyl tiles and planks featuring other installation systems either leave residues behind, from glue or adhesives or require removing an entire row for just one plank, click vinyl, the loose lay variety does neither. While some effort is required to dislodge a tile or plank, it comes out clean and on its own. Moreover, due to their heavier and thicker build, loose-lay vinyl tiles and planks are guaranteed to stay in place and will not be affected by differences in moisture or temperature levels. Thus, you will not have to leave an expansion gap between the flooring and the walls.

IIRC loose lay LVT doesn't need expansion gaps.

As you say, in theory, but in reality who is going to worry about 200mm difference in a site measurement.

If I'm following you correctly, the centre line of the hedge is 1m from where the side of the house will be, and the drawing shows 1.2m. I don't understand what the problem is, as your boundary is the the centre line of the hedge which is only 200mm different from the drawing. We moved our house around 0.5m, from the drawings, to give ourselves more working space. We didn't tell anyone and there were no repercussions. I wouldn't worry about things like that.

We installed a conical shaped STP, which just sat on the top of a thick concrete paving slab. The sloping sided hole was dug out by the local farmer who placed the slab at the bottom of the hole. The STP was chained down to four angle irons which I banged into the side of the hole. It was easy to level the STP because it just sat on it's pointed base. The hole was back filled with type 1. The STP had a 450mm turret riser which was concreted in. The farmer charged £160 but this was fifteen years ago.

Would it be a good idea to have an airtightness test done. Then you can also see where the leaks are.

Western Red Cedar doesn't need any treatment to stop rot and lasts for around seventy years. It will go grey without any surface treatment, which some people like and some don't. You will find the rain washed areas go grey quicker than the weather protected areas, so can look patchy until it all evens up, which can take years.

Depends what sort of wood it is, and what if any, surface treatment you intend to use. I would use Cedral myself.

At our last place we had 1920s asbestos roof slates that were just about 100% covered in moss.

I use mostly Soudal foams, sealants and adhesives. I don't think you can beat them.

Although you don't own the hedge the boundary should be the centre line of the hedge plant trunks.

I don't want to rain on your parade, but it would take me years to fill a compost bin that is, what looks like, over 2m high and 4m diameter. That's from my just over half an acre, sounds like a plan for the National Trust. Our compost bins rot down very quickly.

Great job.

Is that measurement to the centre line of the hedge or your side of the hedge?

Yes and then no. I designed and built my own PH but it wasn't recent, it was fifteen years ago, when the regulations were less onerous and costs much less. It took us eight years, doing a lot of the work ourselves. I would do a new self build now, but it would be a turnkey build.

The fresh air is coming from the loft, same as if I had a PIV system.

"On 31 March 2003, they were banned from use on roads in the United Kingdom because of safety concerns. They were all called in and crushed, though a few survive in museums and private ownership."

I have fitted several new windows already which don't have trickle vents. I don't like the look of trickle vents, and retro fitting them seems like much more of a PITA than a small hole on the ceiling.

This is an old bungalow, so is there any reason I shouldn't have ceiling mounted humidity activated vents in the dry rooms?