Gone West

The left hand tap connector looks as though it will fit on the small threaded part of the right hand connector, if the small barbed bit is cut off. Then what do you want?

Also not a sparky, but I always use Piranhna Earth Nuts rather than the earth tags as they take up less room and are a neater solution. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Earthing_Index/Piranhna_Earth_Nuts/index.html

We installed a Diamond DMS2 in 2010 but we chained it down to horizontal angle irons. The local farmer dug out the hole and it wasn't difficult to make it smaller at the bottom than the top. We put a thick concrete slab in the bottom of the hole for it to stand on and it was easy to level it because it was conical.

That's great, sounds like you're doing well. We started our build when I was 59 and it took us 8 years. I was totally exhausted at the end!!

We've got a concrete block retaining wall, about 1.5m high, which is unrendered and has drainage holes at the base. I painted it with Durbocem three years ago and it looks the same now as when I painted it. I was thinking of rendering over the Durbocem, to tidy it up, and painting the render, again with Durbocem. https://andrewscoatings.co.uk/shop/interior-exterior-walls/damp-mould/durbocem/

I'm not sure that is correct. My PH house had a SAP rating of A95 without any renewables and that was in 2017 using SAP 2012 V9.92. This was achieved by having very low U values for the fabric of the building and good airtightness.

I can only bow to your greatness.

Neat job.

Oh no, now you've done it.

That's the stuff I use, excellent. I don't want to put a damper on it, but don't get too excited about tomorrow, things can go wrong .

I used a long nail with the point cut off.

I had one once where you could twist the spring a quarter of a turn and then replace the peg in the base.

Have you capped the ends of all the pipes and ducts?

I didn't realise that that our fuse is 60A until OVO came to put an isolation switch in our box.

I just painted mine with Black Jack 908.

Same with most things, if they're not installed correctly, you'll have problems. I've been using Speedfit for years, since I stopped using Hep2O in the nineties.

And then fit the collett clips as in the MIs.

Yup, a good few years ago now. Each manifold had it's own isolation valve.

I don't know if these are of any help. I would have thought turning the water softener through 90 degrees so it's parallel to the outside wall would improve access to the cupboard.

You could try Freecycle and Freegle. It's what I used to dispose of nearly all my old timber framed bungalow that I dismantled.

We had Clearview Vista 80X fitted on a 4m glazed gable which did reduce heat gain, but was expensive. https://www.sun-x.co.uk/window-film/clearview-solar-film

You can get a 700mm wide electric micro excavator which can be driven through a house.

Yes it was the PHPP 2007 version I used for the initial calculations, £135 from the AECB IIRC. I later updated it to the 2010 version which had data for compact units, such as the Genvex Combi, that I installed. All old hat now, I guess.

Fifteen years ago I did my own PHPP calculations and they were accepted by DDC BC instead of 'as designed' SAP calculations.

There are lots of ideas on https://gabionsupply.com/ Pumice stone, which can be bought in bulk, can be used for a lightweight filler.