Gone West

We also stayed in a PH B&B for a few days, back in 2009, as we wanted to experience a PH before we finally decided to build one. It is cetainly a good idea.

We have an old cast iron lamp post, by our drive, which I renovated a couple of years ago. I used LED filament bulbs, which have survived pretty well considering where they are fitted. https://www.ultraleds.co.uk/tear-drop-st64-squirrel-cage-led-filament-lamp-b22-400lm-2200k-extra-warm-white-easydim

That's what I've read, and I do hope so. I'm going to try to lime plaster the window revels in a 600mm thick stone wall. If I get on alright with that, I'll try larger areas. I find it very tricky plastering with gypsum and get on better rendering with cement.

Is he also an arborist 😉.

The roots of Leylandii will not draw water once the trees are cut down so that there is just a stump with no greenery. The reason roots draw water is feed the tree so once the surface of the stump is dry no more water will be taken up. If they were not Leylandii, but say Yew, then the tree stump would sprout new growth and the roots would continue to draw water.

If you cut them down they will die as they are Leylandii so will not sprout from the base. The problem is that it will take at least a couple of years for the soil water saturation levels to settle.

Yup, if you were using self tapping screws into metal you would drill a hole first, unless you were using Tek screws when you wouldn't have to drill a hole.

Last year I used concrete screws to fix some timber to a concrete block wall. They are very sensitive to the hole being exactly the right size.

Some use OSB others such as Steico use structural fibreboard. STEICOjoist and STEICOwall are natural products. The production basis for all our joists is timber. Made from slow grown spruce, the flanges are kiln dried and machine stress graded thereby guaranteeing a consistant quality and defined mechanical properties. The webs are made from structural fibreboard, jointed along the length with a V-groove profile, offering a very high shear capacity. Both the preparation and manufacturing processes of the flanges, the webs and the installation of durable adhesives are carried out using the latest automated assembly lines.

Product Details One-piece self-tapping concrete screw with ICC-ES Approval. For use in a variety of base materials including wood. Coated in a corrosion resistant Perma-Seal coating with an optimised thread design for low installation torque. Also incorporates a gimlet drill point for wood, no pre-drilling required.

We used Rehau Geneo profiles and had all the windows made using the same profile with triple glazed units. We had a three quarter glazed gable where the tallest pane was just over 4m.

https://www.mikewye.co.uk/product/foam-glass-bubbles/ Presumably something like that is also available in France.

A lot of NT pathways are made of hoggin. Easy to use and if it sinks a bit you can just top it up.

Timber I-beam portal frame using 15mm OSB3, 350mm Icynene with plasterboard and skim. No tapes or membranes at all. Airtightness was 0.47ACH.

I hope so, as I'm gradually going over to Dewalt 18V XR tools.

Safe, but you might run out of hot water.

Just thinking about it logically, I would turn both off and see what the effect is.

We're trying to keep up. https://www.beba-energy.co.uk/solar-panels/thanet-earth/

We didn't use decoupling mat but did use flexible tile adhesive. The concrete had been down five years before we tiled the downstairs and we didn't have UFH.

IIRC it was a rodding elbow and I drilled a hole in the centre of the rodding cover for a 50mm 45 degree bend which I bonded on somehow. It was eight years ago so the details are a bit thin I'm afraid.

In our downstairs wetroom we were tight for space and I used a short, straight WC connector into a 90 degree bend with a 50mm AAV vertically off the bend.

I think it depends on how obvious the work is, that you plan to do. Are you detached, do you have nosey near neighbours? Most people don't know the difference between Planning and Building Regs. If you think there's a good chance someone might dob you in, then be careful. If not then I doubt anything would happen.

The wind has never moved it. I've not tried hosing it because I didn't want water going in the vent slots. I have brushed it with a broom and it was ok. To a degree it is held in place by the slot in the fascia. I won't be altering it for the time being.

Nope, makes it easy to remove though. 😀

Ours are fitted like that where the 1970s cavity wall alterations were made. Apparently our uPVC soffits replaced asbestos ones as well.