Gone West

All we needed for the driveway was 200mm but I don't see why it couldn't be thicker. It just needs to be wacked down in lots of thin layers, around 50 to 75mm. It's a lot less hard work using a mini digger when shifting 40 or 50 tons and the quicker you do it the less hire charge for the crusher. Ideally you want the maximum crushed size to be 40 to 50mm. I've seen videos of crushers being loaded manually and it's certainly possible if there's plenty of people doing it. We hired the crusher and digger with driver and we were glad we did because the conveyor belt split and had to be repaired and they were paid for doing the job so had to return the next day to finish.

We crushed our waste concrete etc and used it at 200mm compacted for our driveway and shed base.

All my portal frame I-beam corners are joined both sides with plywood plates that are glued and screwed. They are Steico I-beams.

Yes weedkiller, then level ground and rake top 15mm so turf roots can get going and lay turf and water regularly unless you get significant rain. We haven't had a decent amount of rain in months. Don't worry about a small amount of sand just rake it in with the soil.

Possibly it's a Viper's Bugloss which we have in our wild flower patch. If it is, then it could be called a weed but we call them wild flowers. If it's covered in bees then I'm probably right as they are a bee magnet.

I caught a twenty pound one once at Leybourne Lakes. Welcome to the forum by the way.

Hi, welcome to the forum. I bought a new Harveys Crown softener from Fountain Softeners a couple of years ago for around £800. It came with a five year warranty which I used last year when one of the valves packed up. They came out next day to fix it. The water is very hard in this area and I have used twin cylinder softeners for many years.

Yeah, but leaving a bit of root in the soil doesn't matter so much with nettles but with weeds like docks, couchgrass or bindweed leaving just a small bit behind will let it grow again. The worst is horsetail/marestail where the tiniest bit of root will regrow.

+1 Same elevation, as far apart as possible, mine are 4m apart.

Most of the weeds shown are annuals and you are killing them with the weedkiller but after rain the seeds still in the soil are then growing. The annuals won't grow through the turf but it's worth getting rid of any perennials like nettles.

- East Kent - 17m - £636 I laid the ducting from the pole to the house with a draw cord and UKPN pulled the cable through and connected both ends. As you can see there is a huge variation of costs depending on area and contestable and non-contestable costs.

Well done, it's time consuming but saves a lot of money. We dismantled our old bungalow and gave away all the bricks, blocks and timber. We crushed the rubbish blocks and concrete and used it on site. The biggest cost for us was asbestos removal.

Why wouldn't pistols be used instead of bevel cuts.

I used some 1200mm rings for my well before the borehole was drilled. The only problem is they have a couple of lifting holes in the side but I plugged those with concrete. I core drilled a 127mm hole for the 110mm soil pipe.

Hi Tammie, welcome to the forum. In my TF house the first floor flooring is 14mm bamboo on 22mm chipboard which is supported by metal web joists. We don't have any creaking but because it's a hard floor as opposed to carpet it's more noisy walking on it. If built quickly and in less than ideal conditions timber frame houses can settle and shrink a little which can cause creaks. Do you know how the ground floor has been constructed.

The whole of my ground floor is tiled with porcelain tiles straight onto the concrete slab using BAL flexible adhesive and expansion strips in the doorways.

I'd go for the silver-grey.

Am I correct in thinking the joists sit on a plate on the gabions where the joists are 60mm above ground and that the chipboard floor is fitted. If so I would consider leaving insulating the floor until the house is weatherproof and then possibly blowing in EPS beads if the oversite is suitable.

What is the depth of the void and what type of joists do you have. A sketch might be useful.

Is the insulation to go on top of or underneath the chipboard flooring as that would have a bearing on the type of insulation used.

Welcome and good luck with your fourth renovation project.

What type of polystyrene and worthless in what way?

I think that was the MK2 version. The first one had a flat end to the fittings and the second one had a more pointed face where the pipe is pushed in. IIRC they also reversed the position of the O ring in relation to the grip ring. The MK1 version pipe didn't have an oxygen barrier either so wasn't suitable for CH.

I first used Hep2O in the early 90s and between then and now they have changed the design many times trying to get it right.

If that happens when you have used Speedfit it must just be lack of experience. It's not a problem I've found using it. Set and match.