Gone West

I agree, the problem is the rules seem to be, for PD, that there is an ASHP noise limit.

Maybe it's a noise problem, with two noise generators at a property in an urban environment?

Not strictly true, there are lots of conditions though for permitted development. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/permission/common-projects/wind-turbines/planning-permission-stand-alone-wind-turbines

We only used hard water for the toilet cisterns and drinking water at a three way kitchen tap.

Ours was £200 in 2017 for a half day. If it leaks like a sieve, you'll pay for it, as they use your electricity.

Yes the PHPP requires comprehensive weather data for your locality. If the correct weather data isn't used it can have a large effect on the results. When I ran my house design through the PHPP I used four different sets of weather data to see the difference.

If it's been designed not to need a wet heating system, then you won't need one. If you build to the PH maximum allowable space heating of 15kWh/(m2/a) then you will probably need a conventional wet heating system. We lived in East Kent near the coast and I designed our PH so we didn't need a conventional wet heating system. As long as the house is designed using the PHPP with the correct weather data, the actual required internal temperature, ours was 23C, then it's feasible. We heated ours with three electric towels, one in each bathroom, 4m2 of electric UFH in the kitchen and warm air heating through the MHRV from an EASHP. The warm air heating only came on when the outside temperature was low for some time. Be careful of people who say, for example, we don't need heating, but don't tell you the bedrooms are at 14C and the living room at 18C. We had the whole house at 23C 24 hours a day.

We never used boost on our MVHR and never had condensation anywhere in the house. Assuming it has been commissioned correctly, where is the condensation forming? I would be looking at the air and wall temperatures. What sort of glazing is in that room? Ventilation is going to have to work harder in lower temperatures.

I remember my mother collecting Family Allowance from the Post Office in the 1950s. That was only available for the second child onwards whereas Child Benefit, which replaced Family Allowance, was available for the first child onwards. AIUI it's the women born in the 1950s who are losing out on State Pension.

Our timber frame worked out at 0.095 U value and we heated the house with just three electric towel rails and warm air from a 685W EASP. We kept the whole house at 23C.

It's not good. I'm not a plumber but did my own plumbing because I like stuff tidy. Nothings perfect but that could be a lot better.

We built in the garden of the existing bungalow and had a new driveway position and highways weren't worried.

They certainly do. I used these several years ago and only used Speedfit connectors.

I had our timber frame totally clad in OSB3 and covered with a membrane. I routed out the openings when the weather improved. It enabled us to work on the inside during the winter months.

Thanks, it looks good, I've bookmarked it, it's a pity only their installers can fit it. "Topseal PU is only available to Topseal Approved Contractors and not available off the shelf."

I wouldn't want to do any fibre glassing on the roof. I wonder why someone hasn't come up with a resin that uses moisture to set, like PU glue.

The GRP thickness, I was thinking 3mm sounds about right. So with an old house the angle may change along the wall, so it's sounding more complicated than using EPDM, which would be easier.

@SteamyTea Following on from the other thread, where we were discussing using GRP sheets for flat roofing. I was wondering what would be the best thickness for that application. Also, if I wanted the flat roof (say 1.5 degree slope) to be just under the level of the existing main roof how would that be done? If I were laying EPDM I would continue it up under the main roof tiles, are suitable GRP sheets flexible enough to be able to bend up a 30 degree slope under the main roof tiles?

OK, thanks, I'll do that.

What thickness sheet would you use on a roof and how flexible is it, for example for sliding up under the main roof when installing on an extension.

Butyl rubber has been around a long time and EPDM. To get around the problem of damp when installing GRP on a roof is it feasible to use GRP sheets bonded to the substrate?

I'm sorry, but that is a load of twaddle. You're seriously worried about green streaks on the roof? Oh no, our PVs have some lichen growing along the bottom edge, what am I to do, they've only been there twelve years and we're in the wet and windy South West. We're going to be building a flat roofed extension as well, there's no hope. Perhaps we'll be alright though, as technology has moved on and there are now roofing materials that allow flat roofs to be built safely.

We sold ours during the pandemic and we had several people bidding against each other for it and it sold for a lot more than the asking price. The buyers were all interested because it was a PH.

I'd be surprised. My son lives out in the sticks near Bishop Auckland and there are several large turbines only a few hundred yards away and you can hear the whooosh from the blades, but it's not too bad. Not what I would want though.

When I was modelling my last house, I ran my house design through the PHPP with a range of air infiltration values to see what the effect would be. Pressurisation Test Result (ACH) Specific Space Heating Demand (kWh/m2a) 0.2 12.1 0.4 12.3 0.6 12.5 0.8 12.7 1.0 12.9 2.0 14.0