PeterW

That’s crap. That will leak. As a minimum it needs cutting into the wall with a 25-30mm lip and sealing.

Not really as long as it’s flattish

Ok so I would use a series of5x100 screws at 300 centres all the way down the sole of the stud wall through the floor and into the top chord. I’d then make sure the two 15mm holes are staggered at least 300mm and on opposite sides of the flange. That will be bomb proof.

+1 to this. Put one below if you want but it will be sacrificial other way is use a 25mm layer of Jablite / EPS70 on top of the stone and blinding then do the DPM - protects and provides insulation at the same time.

That’s from 1998. I’d go with the advice above and move on

Difference between 4 core SWA and a separate 25mm earth, and 5 core SWA is about £20 over 30m - not that much to worry about other than the cost of the terminals at each end !

How are you rendering prior to windows ..??

Sloping edges need doing properly - and if that’s not done right it leaks.

That will leak. Get the scaffold moved, get the windows in and roof on then render.

Just use bay pole jacks - you drill through the cill and they rest on the brickwork below. Pretty standard detail that any FENSA manufacturer/installer will specify.

If you’re not confident then use the glass vials from Fischer and follow the instructions to the letter.

Why..?

Walnut MDF veneer is real walnut on a very stable base. Are they edging it for you too..?

This is the TS one https://www.toolstation.com/d4-wood-glue/p61864

Yep - one each corner then use a blob of silicone under each bottom corner to stop it moving

No you mount the plate to the back of the wood - recessed - and then you put a screw in the wall.

Just check the alignment of the handles. Sometimes one is too high and puts the bar at an angle which makes it stiff to operate. Match sticks in the holes and moving one handle up or down slightly makes it easier to use.

As this is a new build you may need the developers permission to do these. The garage door to window may also need planning permission. If you did these I would regularise the rest of the changes with Building control in one go.

Calcs needed for the steels from an Engineer or at least showing the calculated steel sizing Garage to Kitchen needs min 15mm fire line board on garage side. Electrical certificate on any new sockets/wiring Insulation in the floor needs to meet min regs, as does between garage and kitchen.

keyhole hook. They will fit into the back of the board and then fit flush to the wall. If you’re desperate to keep it from moving then use a couple of blobs of cheap silicone at the bottom behind the board and you can remove at a later date.

I doubt that will happen. The 2030 target requires such a shift change in not just the vehicles but the infrastructure and it’s highly unlikely it can be achieved. Charge network density for example needs to be significantly changed as there are huge rural areas that have no charge points and as these are likely to be net loss for suppliers they will want them heavily subsidized by the government. Vehicle average age in the UK is over 8 1/2 years now, and is increasing. 20% of vehicles are over 13 years old. That means that even stopping selling IC personal vehicles in 2030, it would be 2045 or later by the time they are tailing off (assuming owners don’t keep them longer..!)

It’s a shame they don’t actually enforce solar panels on the roof of all new buildings too, and then offset some of the electrical usage.

Welcome ! Ask away, you’ll get plenty of answers !

Why not use veneered MDF and then edge with real wood ..?

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