PeterW

It will never catch on.... And you're building a proper two storeys ..?

Worth the wait so crack on ..!! It is a 3 storey castle in lime green cladding with "Up Yours" in 3ft high letters on the roof you're building isn't it ....?

Confused ... do you own the land between your house and the main 2km away ...???

That's ordinary fitting tolerance for most DG companies ....

Ok - the only way to damage a pipe in this way is to cause the damage during installation - PEX is good to 10 bar, UFH is 1-2 at most and to get PEX to expand more than 0.5mm needs around 4 bar. Pumps are circulation pumps not pressure pumps so there is no way for a pulse to be created unless there is a fast actuating manifold valve and even then, that would be a sub second pulse only when it closes. Whilst I respect he's been doing it a while, I would hazard a guess that the recalls are due to pipe damage on install that manifests as a leak later. If you pressurise PEX to 3 bar during a pour, it will need a significant force to deform it hence why they always suggest to pressurise as you're effectively walking on a very rigid tube. Without water in it, you stand the risk of deforming something that is inherently unstable due to its shape i.e. a thin tube. I don't know of a single supplier that would warrant their product if it hadn't been pressurised at pour - who's providing the pipe ..?

You can download the software and do it yourself easier - yes it's in US measurements but it's not rocket science... loopCAD is what you need - free for 30 days

So I spoke to my brother about anti vibration mounts for stuff as he does a lot of heavy machinery that also has sensitive control systems and the advice was always couple something light to something heavy.... To reduce the harmonics, the best way is to ensure whatever you connect to can't move easily. So an anti vibration mount needs something heavy and dense such as a paving slab. This - or chunks of it - can then be stood on the joists as the concrete dampens the ability for sound to travel.

Plenty of online providers - look on the Planning Portal and they have a list of links for planning plans. Some you can even draw the lines on online and then print - cost is about £12 or so.

Yep.... and an NMA becomes £195 with no allowance for appeal or discussion ..!!!

Chainsaw gear is used - they also did a "safety video" as part of last nights episode !

Found it very interesting as a chainsaw owner ..! Did you notice the inspector was a Brit ..?? They did one in the U.K. that ended up burnt to the ground before it was finished and they had to rebuild it - £4m insurance claim..!

But cable is cheap ... so run the controls to a common location and then you can change the control method accordingly ... still like ..! And I have a PIR in the garage and it's the best thing I ever fitted ...!!

Raw sewage is an Environmental Health issue and needs reporting to the council asap... sadly don't think Environment Agency will be interested unless it's into a watercourse. How long has it been there ..?

No exception to the 12 week rule unless it's a major development IIRC... On the second one, depends if he has permission for stables or are they temporary..? If no permission and he is permanently on site (ignoring the 28 days a year rule) then its council enforcement who need to deal with it.

I think the words I'm looking for are ... I hate you ..!!!! now got something else to plan in .... and at those prices it's a no brainer..!!

Goes a long way !! 20sqm is £3 a sqm. That's not much difference to a decent tile adhesive

Break tank ensures you can't create negative pressure in the main using a pump. http://uk.grundfos.com/service-support/encyclopedia-search/break-tank.html So a 500 litre break tank is fed with normal mains pressure, then a pump draws from this via a non return setup to pressurise an accumulator that holds water for the house at a "higher" pressure. This is a simplified package version of it all http://www.anchorpumps.com/pump-type/booster-pump-sets/grundfos-home-booster-sets/grundfos-home-booster-240v/grundfos-4-5-bar-home-booster-240v

Can take up to 8 weeks to get conditions signed off - same as an application sadly...

Yep - used this one http://www.bambooflooringcompany.com/ever-build-lumberjack-650-adhesive-14kg.html (used for bamboo) and this one http://www.bambooflooringcompany.com/sika-bond-ms-wood-floor-adhesive-14kg.html (used for oak) Both work really well and you get around 20sqm per tub.

Just as an aside there is a pretty big cold bridge in that around the opening as you have battens shown in line with the frame above and below the window. Can they not be vertical inside..? No service void ..?

You can get duct joiners - ,cut and trench as much as you need and fill the ends to stop muck getting in then mark the end on the surface. When the house has gone, dig up and attach the rest and feed the MDPE in and job done.

There is a poor lad somewhere missing his GCSE Metalwork project... send it back !!

Internal glazing used to be the "secure standard" in uPVC nearly 20 years ago. All it relies on is the correct use of the profiles - most uPVC used a "Z" profile, where internally glazed needs a "T" profile normally used for mullions etc.

SBD and the PAS standards talk about "glazing manipulation" and where you cannot remove without tools etc or leaving marks on the frames.I'm just very surprised that some manufacturers don't use the glazing tapes...! You also have to be very careful with SBD and Part Q - SBD will not accept foreign standards, yet Part Q will.

Good source at reasonable price then @Nickfromwales ..?