PeterW

Is it a pressurised system..? What is the pressure set at..?

Is there any reason it has to be block paved ..? Seems a bit of overkill as block paving is expensive when it comes to roadways ..!

Legal requirement by building control I believe to take the weight of a fire engine ..?? Had to make sure that on a commercial build we could get a full 22 tonne tender to within 50m of any point on the structure

Its in the first post hence the query about if BC had said anything.

That just saved me about £140..!!! Thanks for that one... !

BT Business are the same however I know how they've implemented the twitter filters so you send stuff to Graham Sutherland... I was really concerned when they bought EE as up to now I've not had any issues with them however BT has always been a joke - fingers crossed they keep the EE teams as they are as **usually** they do what they say they will do ..!!

Just watch the sizing as they assume a wall of 0.3 on the uValue and not the much better standards you're probably building to.

Depends where you can send it to as if it's flowing well during the rain then you will need a big soak away or it will just fill up too quickly.

BCO not said anything about that septic leach field ..??! It should be a minimum distance from a dwelling which it now obviously isn't ..! Questions ... - do you own the land it's on..? - is it septic or treatment plant..? - how much land do you have below the house i.e. If you had to move that leach field do you have the space..? If that is leachate and rainwater combined then you can't store it and use it as the pathogen count in it will be through the roof. Consider taking their pipe off to below your house but that should be a cost they cover. Rainwater tanks should be rainwater only under the regulations / standards and groundwater is classed as a different supply type.

This one and subtract 15% seems to be about right for me most times https://www.traderadiators.com/acatalog/heating-calculator.html

This week I've just spoken to my planning officer - who is covering for another who is off sick, who was covering for a vacancy - and had a very pragmatic discussion which culminated in me being asked if I had any jobs going as they had 60 cases on the go currently ...!!! and we think we are stressed just building one.....!

Aaahhhh....!!! OK I'm used to using a mix box : bucket so the ratios are 3 buckets sand, half lime, half OPC in a standard mixer. I've never actually thought of that in litres ..!

32mm MDPE..?? One of these http://www.drainagepipe.co.uk/products/mdpe-fittings/mdpe-to-universal-copper-adaptor/32mm-x-15/22mm

Currys sale has already started online ..!

Not sure if the Window one is a typo but it says mm2 Other than that is this a spreadsheet you've built or an extract out of fdSAP or something similar..?

£8 on ebay on 4mm Correx http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SITE-SAFETY-BUILDING-SIGNS-STICKERS-LARGE-SIZES-THICK-MATERIALS-CSS36-/170971956132?var=&hash=item27ceb903a4:m:mEO0kXTSICaUBj3lbSsyzVw

+1 to the eyewash recommendation These are less than £10 and worth every penny Steroplast Eyewash Pod Station https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00CRLPB6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RSwnyb68NVT0W One of these will keep the HSE happy but supplement it with a big box of plasters ! Steroplast 10 Person HSE First Aid Kit With Wall-Mountable Case https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JFRY9TC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KTwnybXS1NDMD And don't forget the accident book ...!

Search site safety sign on eBay - the all-in-one signs are £3-4 and you can get most of the ones you need from there.

I do question the logic by your architect here .... By just doing the roof make up suggested - and at this point the focus is on thermal efficiency not air tightness - you would end up with a roof value of 0.11. If you then add a 32.5mm insulated plasterboard you are at 0.1 at a future point. The key is air tightness and doing the partial fill at rafter and sealing either with a VCL or taping the joints will give you that - your other choice to get to a 0.12 would be 400mm of rock wool at ceiling height which scuppers your idea of converting at a later date.

I would add some caution to that approach as you may miss things and also you have no baseline to challenge any costs. For example if your groundwork quotes all come in quoting based on concrete at £145/150/155/cuM, what have you got to baseline against if you don't have an independent view of the costs or quantities involved ..? Having a QS after the fact is potentially extending your timelines as you may have to go back and challenge your supply chain.

Have you considered something like a service such as the one from Estimators Online ..?? They need to be "tweaked" some times as their system can be a little odd but it should give you and the lender a decent understanding of the real cost levers. Is the plan to build all 3 concurrently ..??

How about putting 100mm rockwool between the first floor and attic which will provide sound and thermal insulation and then putting 150mm of Xtratherm between the rafters of the attic and then tape and batten over. It gives you best of both, and then an attic conversion would then need to just overboard the inside with the additional 50mm of insulated PB.

I would open windows on opposing sides of the house and get a draft blowing through. To get a dehumidifier working properly you really need a source of heat too, and as most are saying you don't want MVHR on as it will just get full of crud.

I think I worked out that the difference was better spent on going from 250 to 300 litres and adding a second immersion and some logic around controlling the top third boost than adding the complexity of the online heater. If money were no object then I would go with Sunamps but with no PV to start with it's an expensive option.

Ask @PeterStarck about his insulation - he has a spray foam finish. I'm not sure where you want to insulate though ...?? Do you mean the floor between the attic and the rooms below as that will then mean the attic space has a lower uValue than the rooms below.