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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. PeterW
    I used the Gerband one from Passive House - the 88/12 Split Release Tape Great stuff and works very well. By the way it stuck to the EPS of the lintels I doubt you would have any issues with it on ICF.
  2. PeterW
    You also need to keep walls below 2.5m too don’t you ..? I take it the plan is to maximize your PD rights..?
  3. PeterW
    11x8 is a big slab - even with a 30 degree roof and 2.4m walls you are talking a 4.7m ridge which is surely going to need planning permission ..?? That will dictate the materials and finish in reality.
  4. PeterW
    Just checked and my merchant (MKM) is quoting £54 for the 2.4x0.6 T&G and £93 for 2.4x0.9 square edged multipanel. Will probably go with this as it’s easy and free delivery too.
  5. PeterW
    So that is me and @joe90 agreeing on the way to do it and I could always use my Jedi admin powers to make you agree too @Nickfromwales..... But yes people, you staple the mat not the cable ....
  6. PeterW
    25mm is standard for a house ...
  7. PeterW
    Why do you want a 32mm connection ..?! That will be driving up the cost.
  8. PeterW
    Through the mesh, not the wires ..... Nothing in the MIs about that I can see ..?!
  9. PeterW
    As @JSHarris says it’s a bit of an odd one but they don’t have the thermal bridge you expect and if the top 6-800mm is insulated then where an ordinary slab would have a cold bridge to 0c or less at the edge, the piles are at 8c or ground temperature. 30 piles with a 30cm square section have an edge loss area of the equivalent of a square building of 81sqm. As the piles are at a warmer temperature the losses are substantially less than this.
  10. PeterW
    I use coconut oil and sand as hand cleaner...! It cleans the crud off and then ordinary hand soap and cold water gets the rest off. Hot water opens up the pores and drives the dirt inward I’ve found.
  11. PeterW
    TBH I just use self leveller everywhere and pour over the mat when it’s down and bring it just above the wires and there is a perfectly flat and easy surface to lay tiles on. I’ve also taken to staples to hold down the mat at the edges as despite a lot being self adhesive they do move a little and it means you can get them taught and flat and they don’t lift when you pour the SLC.
  12. PeterW
    You mean one of these ..?? https://www.stovespares.co.uk/aarrow-door-rope-seal-kit_ceramic-thermal-rope-seal.html 10mm isn’t it if it’s the soft black stuff.
  13. PeterW
    Errr .... purlin should only be supported at the walls ..!! Have you got a photo..?? Sounds like someone has decided to reinforce a slight bend in a purlin. If you - or SE - think it needs it then the only way is to sister it with another purlin bolted to it. I’d be inclined to bolt 8x2 front and back with M12 coach bolts every 450mm and I doubt it would go anywhere ever again ...
  14. PeterW
    I think the opposite.... the big boys are being caught our time and again now and I think the attention to detail from self builders is recognised as being a good thing. But building control is far too lax - some due to cost I expect - and whilst the standards are there, in a lot of instances they are not enforced. What is needed is a set of more reasonable and more useable building codes similar to the US system and better enforcement by building control - why shouldn’t every building on a development be inspected ..??
  15. PeterW
    Hmmm..... spares are obsolete for those and the cartridges were one piece as part of the valve. Could be a blocked inlet but more likely that the wax cap has gone in it.
  16. PeterW
    What sort is it ..? The cartridges are pretty easy to change
  17. PeterW
    PP for our build is a conversion and the architect submitted the plans for the existing - and to be retained - building with the door and window reversed in position and a window in a gable that didn’t exist ... and it was passed with no questions ..!
  18. PeterW
    If nothing going above as it’s full height to the roof then you should be able to take then lot out. Purlins will be holding the walls but just watch for joists going through the structural walls and it leaving lots of holes or joists hanging on to nothing on the other side !
  19. PeterW
    32mm strings ..?? fit it first and board after - that’s our plan as the plasterer recons he can get a better finish and we won’t have any gaps as most modern staircases are CNC made so very accurate and walls are not ...
  20. PeterW
    From memory you only need 1hr from the outside and skimmed PB is 30min anyway. You don’t need to make it all 1hr or you couldn’t have timber in it ...
  21. PeterW
    Have a look above your head and see if there are purlins in the roof - will probably be 3x10 or 4x8 timbers or steels running parallel to the ridge. Also check the rafter depth - usual giveaway that it’s a cut roof not a trussed roof is if they are over 75mm deep - and you may find at purlin level there are additional timbers joining both sides of the roof like an “A” and these stringers or collar ties hold the roof together.
  22. PeterW
    Sounds like a couple of cold dead legs - not much you can do now as the method of fixing is either to use a hot return loop or use smaller bore pipe to the taps. Not sure with how yours is set up anyway if you could use a hot return anyway as there is a flow switch in the cold feed to trigger the Heat Exchanger loop pump.
  23. PeterW
    I think the issue was that just as a product it was bare minimum and you had to use a thermaline type plasterboard in addition. The added cost and the complexity took away the benefit of the cassette roof system. In the end - and due to a number of valleys and dormers - we went with a cut roof and fibre / Kingspan as a solution
  24. PeterW
    You would need an easement from the farm to allow you to connect in case you ever sold the farm to someone else and you would then possibly need to put in a separate feed at that point.... but I would not worry about that at this point ..! Cut the 32mm, tee in a 25mm MDPE and then stick a non return valve and a meter on it ...
  25. PeterW
    Is the farm supply for the house or the entire farm ..? Would guess it’s 32mm or similar. You could run 25mm to yours with no issues as long as there is decent static pressure. And you can buy cheap meters off eBay that are WRAS approved for less than £20... Sewage to a tank is it ..?
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