PeterW

unlikely as they sell their spares online, right the way down to the washers ... https://www.abacus-bathrooms.co.uk/#!/flushing-support-systems/spares-accessories I also seem to recall that these flush units are Siamp ones as there are a very few manufacturers of flush valves so it could be a standard part to replace.

Ok each of those toilets should take an hour to strip the flush mechanism and replace. If you can get spare seals for them then I would get a set for each and get the plumber to swap them as he goes - by the last one he should be done in 20 minutes..! Tower shower is an unknown until he gets it off really - best thing is buy a replacement that is bigger all round than the existing one then you know you won’t have an issue. That could take a day to strip and fit in reality. Last shower is just fitting to a wall and I’m sure is a like for like (standard pipe centres) so a couple of hours most. I’d say a couple of decent days at most - offer a bacon sandwich on day 1 and I reckon they will get it cracked !

No - clay isn’t suitable for gas unless it’s fullt sealed anyway. The sections have to lock into each other and you will also need the throat section anyway to close off the chimney at the base or your chimney has nothing to stand on. Go on the Dunbrik site and look at what you need. With 2 pots, one will be a dummy so make sure it’s got a weep route to let water out above the lead DPC. Both need bird cowls too so get a pair to match ... And it looks like you’ve “reclaimed” a pair of pretty new Hanson chimney pots ....!!

Short pile roller

As @JSHarris infers, there is a sweet spot for RHI... You have to hit a bare minimum to qualify for RHI, and then its at its maximum level for payment as it is supposed to supplement your heating costs to bring them in line with those of more efficient properties. In reality, you can get RHI at its maximum level, then install decent windows and loft insulation and basically take the money and run.... no-one ever checks !!

Ideally you want to stop the render above the tray, then put new render below and dress the lead over it. TBH the amount of leakage on a chimney these days with a proper weather cowl on it is negligible and trays are rare to find - cracking of flaunching is more of an issue with older chimneys too, and its rare to see trays fitted to newer ones.

Thats not strictly true - you only get a higher limit due to the vehicle being heavier, to the detriment of fuel consumption, and there is very little difference towing with 4 and 2 wheel drive and in some circumstances FWD is better

Are they not glued together too ..??

So the metering regs require them to make a physical inspection of the meter and it’s registers a minimum of once per 12 months. This is their biggest cost and smart meters don’t remove that. The “benefit” is they get more accurate readings but tbh it’s not ideal. SMETS1 was a joke in terms of standards, SMETS2 is better, and I would only really trust one or two of the meter manufacturers with the security of the data. The big issue is the metering data all goes through one big aggregator and that system is the same as it was in 1998....

They can’t insist now - it’s not in legislation so they are stuffed. Saying that, the Octopus energy deal with the potential of 0p/kWh is tempting ...!!

They look like Dunbrik liners. I’ve used them, should have some sort of vermiculite and cement around them as an insulation layer unless the ones @nod fitted are different. You have a choice with a built in liner - class 1 or class 2. Class 1 can be for anything including wood burners and solid fuel, oil and gas. Class 2 is oil and gas only. For the small difference in cost I would fit a class 1 liner and ensure it’s sealed correctly then fit a gas cowl to the pot. It means in the future it can be swapped for anything and is not limited to just gas.

I noticed that Ebico has hiked its free overnight tariff standing charge from 55p to £1.23 per day...

Likewise here - 100/150/100 brick bead and block with some rooms having an additional 25mm kingspan. Roof is 200mm fibre, 25mm kingspan internally and most is room in roof. All the glazing is 3G but have a gFactor of 0.4 so tend not to have massive solar gain. This is all standard build too, just lots of attention to detail on air tightness etc

As the internal walls are structural you will need to keep them as straight as possible otherwise you will get issues with wall plates and loading and may need to go thicker blocks just to get strong enough wall. Plastering will be a nightmare too..!!

Glass batts are fine for regular cavities but this will end up a right mess - seriously consider blown bead as it’s quick and efficient and would be ideal for this sort of job.

That shouldn’t be the only isolator. Is there a pair in an attic somewhere ..?

I would just add 2 or 3 (depending on width) egg crate foam panels behind the compressor area and be done with it. They will stop 90% of the noise transfer.

So pick the min 100mm and work from it. Some gaps will be bigger than 100mm but none will be smaller. Then get blown bead insulation installed - fills every cavity and you will have no gaps and a really decent level of insulation. The only plans you would need to change for TF would be for BRegs as planning doesn’t care what the inside looks like ...

You can use the Nulok system on a very low pitch. @recoveringacademic Is currently installing and @Paul Stevenson will be able to give you some pointers.

Could always isolate both strings, switch the connections between input 1 and input 2 to see if the fault "moves" which would indicate either a cable issue or a connection issue to the strings. Reading the MPPT figures though it would indicate the panels have output. Have you got the manual..? Crossed with JSH

What do the estate agents details say..? If it says storage then it’s more “defendable” than you saying it. If it says study/bedroom etc then it’s a problem as it’s potential misrepresentation ...

Not a hope for the MVHR heating a space - air doesn’t hold enough heat to keep that space warm. Other option is to wedge a couple of layers of EPS against the bottom of the beam and block - or glue them with low expansion foam - to insulate the bottom of the slab. The downside of that approach is that it needs access to the undercroft for 8x4 sheets of insulation.

You need a Kuni tool pouch or trousers with lots of pockets ...

Just google Level Threshold detail and there are loads of images to show how to do it.

Welcome .... I’d line the undercroft with DPM, seal the airbricks that are doing nothing to help as concrete doesn’t rot like timber and fill the whole void with EPS beads ..! Quick and simple and will give you lots of insulation ..! Don’t even consider UFH unless you’ve got 100mm of PIR below the floor or you will be wasting heat ...!