PeterW

Depends how much you need to trim as between the ribs is fairly easy, if you have to cut a rib it’s more difficult. What is the chamber bedded on to..? Just looks like muck..? Any pea gravel or concrete ..?

So just to correct you here.. you would use a pair of 22° bends on each side (as per Drainage Design guide) with a short rocker, as a 45° is deemed restrictive for rodding purposes and can create binding if you were to use an IC as a direction change, although there is nothing to stop you using an IC as per install above in any of the regulations which the BCO can refer to, so not quite sure what you don’t understand about that..?

@Selfbuildsarah you don’t need that much space and you can “stack” things such as the expansion vessels on top of the cylinders. First off, need to know how many showers etc you have - 10l/min is a pretty decent shower and is the maximum under the G2 water efficiency regs if you’re required to achieve that anyway. With an 70/30 of hot to cold from a 300 litre tank at 52°C, you’re at around 40 mins of shower flow before you get a cold shower. Take that tank to 72°C and you’re adding around 18 mins additional flow which is actually a fair amount. 82°C and you’re over an hour at 65 mins of capacity, and this is from a 300 litre UVC with 90% usable capacity. 300 litre UVCs are pretty easy to get into surprisingly small spaces - the Telford one is 660mm diameter and that’s not far off the same footprint as an ordinary fridge freezer. Telford custom make their cylinders at no extra charge with all ports and connections where you want them too so they are easily installed. I’ve designed variable flow installations with domino tanks using multiple UVCs but that’s for buildings such as B&Bs who want flex but limited heat loss when rooms aren’t in use and the 2 variables are always capacity and temperature - all depends on the need, and proper design from the outset.

Based on..? Nothing in the Building Regs about this or in the Drainage Design manual ..?

You can technically come in on a branch and leave on the main channel if you are using the chamber to do a direction change but you need to make sure there is a decent “drop” across the chamber so you don’t have blockage issues. Not ideal, but as @Nickfromwales said it just needs straightening up and then should be fine with some concrete around the base.

got the engineer code or the main code ..? Can set that off the menu on the ricochet from memory

They are spring loaded so you won’t hear a rattle - have you got the spigot / tap connector or the attachment to suit as they only work with the same brand ones..? I run all their stuff and it works fine

Centre of the frame, bead of decent sealant on the lip of the cill only, then screw down but not so much that you distort the cill base.

Dig down 250mm and shutter the edges to the correct size with OSB then put 150mm of EPS in the middle of it up to 250mm from the edges, DPM over the lot and then pour fibre reinforced concrete - you’ve got a pretty well insulated slab along with a ring beam that is never going anywhere ..! Just remember to duct in for the power and water !

El Cheapo leisure battery is £50 Here Charge Controller is £8 Here 500w inverter is £20 Here That’s enough for a battery charger and some LED lights, bits of wire and battery clamps to connect it together and you’re done for £100.

Hwam Beethoven with the soapstone surround here and it is amazing - really heavy to put into place but the controls are very good and burns very well.

Metal much better than the plastic ones and the Hozelock stuff is expensive for what it is

Better ones out there https://www.waterirrigation.co.uk/hoses-and-accessories/tap-and-hose-connectors/water-distributors/geka-plus-four-way-tap-connector.html

that diagram is incorrect and I think has been superseded but the mag filter should be on the final cold return to the ASHP and not the far side of the buffer or it will not catch the crap how it should do. Sadly they use pretty standard drawings these days and don’t actually fully check their flows (or didn’t on one I saw, also check above) and had a 3 way valve plumbed wrongly… worth following all the pipes on the plan in all scenarios ..!

Standard core drill is about £35 a day and they have up to 250mm cores and they charge by the mm wear on the teeth normally. Pilot drill it and then cut outside in, finish from the inside and it’s a 30 min job.

agree however he’s relying on splitting the boxes and 2 isolators in the CU’s, and tbh for the £20 for a 100A metal clad isolator it is a bit of a no brainer - can also protect the split on the tails too. Personally I would rip the lot and put a double decker board in and start again …

If you’re going to do splits etc with a Henley then put a 100A isolator in as well and terminate the SWA at that - will mean you can isolate the boards and also make it a bit safer to work on

Typo in the ad..? Should be £90…. Can pick them up for half that

Cloaking board normally sits on top of the wall and is bedded on, with just the tile batten holding it in place. If you’ve got a timber structure instead , you may need some sort of timber trim up under the cloak and have the board sat on top of your edge counter batten - I’d make the edge one a 100x50 too and then carefully drill the cloak board in a few places to secure it with screws through the tile batten and then into the counter batten and the frame below. Have you added up the weight of a tile roof as they aren’t light - is the shed structure up to it ..??

40mm deep won’t stop anything - it will overflow in seconds. Fit something like this around 70-80mm from the edge of the threshold and then tile/pave the gap https://www.cotterillcivils.co.uk/products/a15-paving-slot-channel-with-aluminium-edge-1m

Buy … have a look on FarceBook marketplace and get a used Belle Minimix - even if the drum is shot a new drum isn’t too expensive and you will sell it for what you paid for it. Just remember to clean it every day and once every couple of weeks run it with a litre of brick acid and a couple of litres of water to clean up any stubborn bits.

designed by whom ..?? So at a broad calculation that you can get a maximum of 10m/sqm of floor space, you have the entire 500sqm with every piece at 100mm centres ..?? At a conservative 70W/sqm are you seriously saying your peak heat load is 35kW..??! Assuming this is correct (unlikely) then I would suggest you install a tandem pair of boilers and run a pair of zones - one for each alternate floor with basement and first paired, and ground and second paired. 28mm F/R with a decent pump would be fine but would still run a buffer on each circuit to reduce potential short cycle. Other alternative is to run a 6-700 litre thermal store and also include a preheat coil for DHW and just dump all heat into that - again, pair of boilers for redundancy. I expect the layout is actually incorrect and going to 150mm centres would reduce down to an 8 port per floor which would be ample but I would still use twin boilers etc as per above.

If it is MDPE then it needs to be in a trench between 750-1350mm deep and either : - bedded in 200mm of sand; or - ducted with an appropriate duct (ie 63mm blue duct) Warning tape is optional on private property ….

15mm copper will be connected to something else as it’s not used underground. Where does it appear ..? That’s what you need to do - carefully..!

Depends on the size..? Is it a fully flat roof needing rolls etc or just a flat roof over a window..?