PeterW

Non material amendment I expect.

I reckon you would need 3 sunamp units - could even bin the boiler however the solar thermal would possibly become redundant unless you had a smaller buffer of say 150 litres acting as a preheat for the DHW. What say you @Nickfromwales..?

Go to your local camping shop and buy a cheap foam rollmat and get the Stanley knife out ... Cut it into strips to go round the edges and panels for the front and back and glue them together with impact adhesive. You can reinforce the corners with duct tape if needed but that’s pretty much how we used to do process engineering vessel insulation albeit with nitrile rubber insulation.

Can you pass on their details as I’m sure you’re now an M&E Consultant ......

Nope - all are T&G all round so you can float short edges as you brick bond the boards so there is no 4 point joints.

Nope there is just a gap about 15mm on opposite sides of the nut and a couple of flats on the body - same as a lot of pump isolators are designed.

MPAN - Meter Point Administration Number, or basically the network identifier for your meter at your address DNO - Distribution Network Operator, or the company that provides the wires to your address Clear as mud..?

Floor stats are too unresponsive - have a read of @JSHarrisblog on this.

Sauvignon Blanc actually ...

Wagner Renewables or ask @Nickfromwales who he uses as it seems pretty reasonable what he gets.

Evohome is a rad valve isn’t it not a mixing valve..?? It will sense the air temperature and shut the manifold down which is not what you want.

There isn’t a washer from memory as it’s a pair of machined faces between the bottom of the mixer set and the isolators. If they are worried then a smear of JetBlue or other PTFE paste will suffice. They must use a reamer to sort the top edges of the pipe as it will snag the O Rings and they will leak otherwise.

Unfortunately @Nickfromwales hasn’t identified this correctly and it’s not the pump union but the isolator valve ... easily mistaken when staring over a copy of the 18th edition... ?

They are good but used to BRegs installs and 40c flow rates. If it’s the Esbe valve you have then it’s lower limit is 35c anyway on setting 1 - you can get alternative thermostatic inserts to take it lower but cheaper to buy online.

About £2k over price. You should be aiming at £1/W installed.

This is a link to the premium manifold which I think you have. Those are the isolation valves as shown on page 2. https://cdn.wundatrade.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/M07-generic-Wunda-premium-Manifold-2-5-2017.pdf The two valves fit at the bottom as shown and then they need to fit a 1” to 22mm compression into the bottom of the valves as shown on the picture for supply and return.

That’s a standard loose nut - it has a groove in the flange so that the nut can be fitted to the casting as otherwise the valve would rotate when it was tightened both ways. Stupid question but have they read the manifold instructions as it’s pretty clear how that lot goes together. And if their own place doesn’t rate Grundfos then I’d be amazed as it’s the number one pump supplier in the world - it’s the gold standard.

Clean it all up well and it may be OK.

Valve bodies are pretty standard - you like Jet Blue, I hate it but use what you know...

Multipanel also offer a sample service - they are quite nice sizes too, about an A5 of each laminate.

Watch the multipanel textured ones - can look very matt rather than shiny as in the brochures.

If you make your own you can drop it into a custom cupboard and split the chute into dark / light and also have boxes at the bottom. I can’t see how this could cost less than £100 to do as you could use a standard fire door on the top and also fit intumescent or smoke seals around the edges.

Can you not turn the standpipe into a permanent garden tap ..?? Standard 25mm MDPE doesn’t tend to stagnate that much - you can blow it through fairly easily when you connect the main house. A pair of tees won’t restrict the flow either as long as the branches come off the main run. Other option is to put put your own bundy box after the static pipe and then isolate there with an underground stop valve - just turn it on when you connect the house.

Oh and go to Curry’s and try a hide and slide - the handles are awful and crack you across the knuckles if you get them wrong..! It’s a classic aesthetic over usability issue ....

All built in ovens fit in the housings - the width is the same on any built in +/- 2mm. There should be a trim piece to cut down - looks a bit like a drawer front and it says filler on the order. What happens is you fit the oven into the bottom of the cavity then cut the trim lengthways to fit above the oven and bond it to the carcass.