PeterW

Better than it was ..! Got one of the brown junction box straight on ..?

They are switched and can cause issues with either low flow rates, or flutter when the switch detects back flow or pressure loss elsewhere in the cold system (as per issue with @newhome TS...)

This is the benefit of using a TS with an inbuilt coil - you remove the need for the PHE, flow switch and pump.

I used NoMorePly as the board and then had it skimmed but its directly onto blockwork so the board is just there as a decorative finish. The stove also has a full soapstone casing yet BRegs still treat it as though its got a normal steel skin !

@Ricco this sounds like a classic “not done like this here” scenario ..! what you describe is perfectly suited to a TS, although with that many loops I assume it’s a big house so it will need a big TS. You will need to get 3 sets of tappings on it - two low down for the UFH coils, 2 at a slightly higher point for the towel rails, and then the main DHW coil. This would probably need to be a 35Kw coil with 28mm tappings. This is bread and butter for the likes of Newark Copper Cylinders who have an interactive planner on the website. You could get away with an all in one with the header tank built in but only if it’s above the towel rads. A small header in the top of a wardrobe or airing cupboard would also work fine. How big is the floor area and what’s the heat load ..??

The thing with the pipe poking out is the old quench coil - not a lot you can do with that.

The naked TS actually has a jacket on it already - the tank is inside the outer shell that will be insulated. All the pipework should be insulated - probably put that down to them not being fully “focused” after a night on the Belhaven .....

Sounds like a half way house to pozzolano concrete which is much less reliant on OPC but needs longer to cure.

So that’s a 300mm straight into the stove, 45 degree elbow with a sweeping access, and then a 45 back up into the register plate. All within regs and perfectly reasonably assuming you keep 3 x D from that oak mantle. Just check the door and the hearth though as that may be a limiting factor.

I know what you mean about a house with no draughts and decent windows..! I was in a new build last weekend that a major house builder is classing as “eco” and I could feel the gaps around the doors and it was quite cool even with the radiators on upstairs. When I asked the sales manager what it’s energy rating was, I was told it “exceeded building regulations”.... not sure how or by how much, but it didn’t stop someone cooing over the kitchen when I was in the show home ... Anyway - enjoy the new house ..! I’m planning to visit when I get a spare hour..!

What would be more challenging is predicting it with a reclaimed product. A lot of the recycled wood effect plastic is a mix of regrind thermoset (ie non re-melting plastics) mixed with a standard thermoplastic binder such as Polypropylene or HDPE. The issue is the voids that are created in the extrusions as it’s created, as it will have some element of bubbling occur as the regrind will create air pockets. I don’t think any of them have had any sort of testing for a BBA or similar certificate as the regrind mix is a complete unknown so certifying the end product would be a challenge.

You’ve obviously never seen the price of Aerogel ....

No reason why you can’t have a pair of 45 bends before a register plate unless the chimney also has bends in it too ...??

It was temporarily connected for the purposes of testing ..!! Didn’t have chance to take a photo of the finished installation as it was late ...

Only have to move 3 DDs from memory - will PM you ...

Most blockwork products are priced per sqm as they are normally used in that format - unusual to measure linear meterage as it depends on the height you need

So.... Quick bit of jerry rigging of the controller last night after getting the 2nd fix radials completed and..... it fired up first time !!! I've left it on 65% load, and just got it chugging 27c water into the slab now for the next few days - it is a 9kw output at 7/35 so currently it is drawing around 5.2A - my fag packet calcs say that is around 1.3kW which would give a CoP of near on 4 so I'm quite happy ! This lot now needs to be cleaned up and the timers put in properly !

Just “accidentally” hit the BT cable with a JCB... then ring the the openreach emergency line ....

There is no way that worksurface is 3 x D from that flue ..??? It’s a combustible so it counts in the regs - I’d be cutting it back in line with the cabinets.

Some councils require PP for ASHP as they create “noise nuisance” so cannot be near other properties.

BSEN 12056, Part 3: Roof drainage, layout and calculations...

Depends on the roof pitch and also the tile overhang. 125mm is much better than 100 - deepflow gutters also don’t need as many downpipes

FD use your phone to generate the code but it can be attached to WiFi to create the code. Got to say they have the best systems by far and I’ve no issues using them.

Yes - the Building Regs.... If it’s structural, creates new openings for windows or doors, changes sanitary pipework, makes major wiring changes, adds a floor or converts a loft, improves or changes insulation levels in walls, or adds a new heating appliance then it’s most likely notifiable. I’ve got a link somewhere but I can’t find it on the phone ..!

Party wall agreement springs to mind here ..! If that wall is in good nick, why not get the SE to check it’s foundations and then use it as the back wall and then just build off the top of it..?? photo may help here ..!