PeterW

So ICF would need a minimum of the one up from your existing choice (150mm core with a 50mm u-Value insert) plus cavity of 50mm plus 100mm brick so that means you will have over 420mm of wall - if you did this with brick and block then you would be 325-350mm, timber frame is similar. What will the new roof be..?

You can create a hidden valley with lead and then lap this up behind the render board. As @Cpd says though, they can get blocked so its best to leave them where they can be cleaned. Lead soakers are another option but you will need to leave your render board higher up and won't look as crisp

If you are in London and space is a premium, then ICF seems a slightly odd choice... What is the exterior finish planned to be..? ICF will increase air tightness but in terms of thermal performance it can be matched by traditional brick and block. Timber frame with cellulose gives an equally sound absorbing structure but is much quicker in construction. What is the existing building roof, as from as far as I can see, you are removing some key outer walls which will impact on your existing roof structure. I'd expect you have to remove most of this and replace it (purely to meet increased building regs insulation values) so how are you scheduling this in to the build..?

What sealant is that and did you use the Fugi kit on it..?

@RobinG can you post up some plans or drawings as it really helps. As @Russell griffiths said, the detail posted is the Nudura US stuff and its very different in the UK. If you are looking to save costs then there are a few ways. Why have you gone the ICF route out of interest..?

Hi It should be Foundations > Slab > Walls > Roof Who is advising the other method..?

TBH if this is in the middle of nowhere and you've 9/10th committed then I would go with option 3. Even if it costs you £10k, you are free water for life, and a nice place to be as you will have not become beholden to anyone. Deep breath, smile and walk on by...

Cheap one in @Onoff favourite store... Here

Ok so just UFH and Towel rails on heating..? In that case I would put a primary blender on the tank and drop it to 48c, and run this to the towel rails and the UFH manifolds. It will be evident pretty quickly that the towel rail return is higher than a rad or UFH return so you'll just need the two zone valves for the UFH manifold and the towel rail circuit. How far are the manifolds from the TS..? @Christine Walker I think your issue is that the load valves on your set up are pulling from the top of the tank - a tapping 1/3rd down would mean that the hot water still gets a good amount of available heat. @vfrdave are you having a hot water coil in the tank, or an external plate heat exchanger...?

Fairly simple - the blending valve bridges between the hot outlet and the cold return from the heating circuit. The blended flow then runs to the UFH manifold, and can be dropped to 45c or so. This means as the heat is drawn off, you’re not dumping the whole of your TS into the floor

That makes a difference too. Is the plan for the towel rails to also have electric elements for summer ..?

My picture is not worthy, and @Russell griffiths has a white board which is the ultimate in site office accessories ..! @recoveringacademic does that make sense to you now ..??

I think @Russell griffiths And me are talking the same thing ...

I’ve either doubled up or come back 40mm, turned the next stud on edge and screwed it to the first, and then put another stud so you end up with a square “U” shape. The perpendicular then builds off this.

This is the one I have

I can’t justify one - I borrow a Festool one from a joiner for the price of a 4 Pack when I need it. I do have some neat clamps that can span a full board and act as a rail and they have multiple uses. For repetitive stuff and where you want accuracy, as your local timber merchants to cut to size or get a B&Q Trade Card and get the sheet stuff via them - works out just as cheap as trying to do it myself.

UFH and Rads can come off a single tapping but then split that and feed it into a blending valve at the store - no point pulling water at 65c to the UFH when it will blend it down to 35c at the manifold. Only issue you will face is the UFH manifold pumps fighting the rad circuit pump that will have much lower flow restriction. Have you ordered the TS yet ..?

All plugged into an extension lead ..? Could be the problem as I’ve had it happen to me.

It has a higher compressive strength but lower uValue than Thermafloor (not by much 0.022 vs 0.024) but also has no foil so would need to be protected by a DPM both sides. If you are getting it as seconds, it will probably have damaged edges etc and the glass tissue either side can be a b!&ch to cut with a saw so slit it with a very sharp Stanley knife first.

Thats incorrect. A planner can only take into consideration an objection that is against planning policy - they cannot take into consideration that someone just “doesn’t like” the proposed scheme. There are numerous cases on here where members have had objections and still had planning passed.

Ok - so if you build on the party line, or excavate footings that fall within the 45 degree rule then the garage becomes an issue however there are quick and simple ways round this. Firstly, build the garage on a raft with a thickened edge - 300mm footings will support a single brick wall and standard roof construction on decent ground. This becomes essentially a no-dig foundation so can go as near as 300mm to the party wall. The second on right to light is more complex. The law around this is vague and there are a number of legal arguments around whether a garden can be classed as “the dwelling” when referring to light or shadowing. Brady’s have a useful article on it, and the simplest way to view it is how much will the property overshadow the other. In honesty I’m surprised unless the neighbour has gone into extensive detail about their light levels in rooms that planning are interested. I would though try and resolve this with the neighbour as you’re going to have to live next to them ..!!

I doubt this is the pump as the noise goes when the valve is altered. It will be a harmonic of the flow through the valve .. other option is decrease temperature but increase flow, rooms getting hotter slower.

One last observation - move the door / wall into the master bed back into the hallway by 8-900mm. It means the door opens into an alcove in and not into someone’s face as they walk from the en-suite to the bedroom ...

I applaud you putting that in but unless you’re going to isolate it from the rest of the house, it will be anything but tranquil. Taking what @Ferdinand has said, put a separate room in the garden for this away from the house - somewhere you can take time to be. Decent garden rooms are not expensive and if you’ve got a TF company doing your house, 4 extra panels and a roof aren’t going to be much more. I’d consider how you can then use that space as a hobby room, or just as somewhere to escape to.

Questions @PaulF11 Whats the flow temperature on the UFH manifold set at..? Does the UFH manifold have actuators fitted..? Does this only happen in heating mode..? What brand UFH is it..? Manifold photo would help The fact you’re not hitting the comfort setting is one thing - that is down to flow and flow temperature alone. Reducing the flow will make that worse. What is the Ecodan output temperature set at for heating ..? I would reprogramme the controllers to begin with - are you on E7..?? Remove the smart start or whatever setting, use the stats as binary time switches. Set them on for 4-9am, set back 9-4pm then on from 4-9pm, set back 9pm-4am to start with. Then check the flow temperature on the manifold is set to 38c and run the system. From that you can start to eliminate the issues as you have a baseline to work from