PeterW

Can you do the cutting in the garage ..? Would that keep the noise down ..?

Yep thanks @Ed Davies - forgot that one but it is in the site guide about what and where

As you’re a woodworker @zoothorn then another option on the stump is to use an auger bit. Slightly slower than the chainsaw method but much safer and easier. Just get a 25mm spade or auger bit and drill 20-30 holes in the top about 4” deep. Then the process is the same - bucket of hot embers, or a pile of kindling and a blow torch and let it burn. If you drill to within a couple of inches of the edge you can knock the rest off with a sledgehammer when it’s burnt up.

Ok so @Nickfromwales and me agree on one thing.... Hep2O all the way unless it’s on show where copper rules .. But.. unless you’re having a boiler where you can’t use anything but copper for the metre nearest the appliance, Hep2O will do everything for you and it’s quick and easy. I suggest you start with the Site Guide and go to Screwfix and buy a bag of inserts, a couple of tees, a couple of elbows, a demounting set and a connector and a length of 15mm pipe and sit in the van one evening and practice ..! If you get stuck you can always shout as I’m not far down the road.

How are you planning to tape the back of a joint once it’s up against the wall ...??

Because it’s not in the spec. And a lot of these companies doing this are in it to a price - TW etc don’t double up “because it feels stiffer”, they do it to keep inside the spec which will be Xmm deflection over Ymm span. If you want less deflection than industry tolerance then you have to specify it ... It’s used by mainstream builders as it can be installed by a pair of grunts who share a brain cell on Tuesdays .. Quick and easy when you have gangs doing it all day and the tolerances are “adjusted or hidden” using the brushed in screed.

Scraper or trowel then a bit of 180 grit.

One thing that are good are the Howdens work gloves. They are decent enough that you don’t shred them in an hour, but also not too thick so your hands sweat ..! And at 49p +VAT a pair yesterday ... I have a few months worth ..!

2 for 1 on Reisser screws today and CT1 at £7 a tube for coloured stuff so wasn’t complaining. Also had a £1 saw swap so swapped the manky one out of the skip ... looking at the queue when I left, most people had the same idea ..!

Done exactly this on one recently with UFH mat and rads on a timed circuit and contactor from the time clocks.

Did you work for Bentley in a former life ...?? Why not install it as a truth panel so future generations can see how it all began ..? and then just move on to another project and call this one .... ...finished.....??

That depends on the units and the sophistication of the programmer, not the ASHP itself. For example, @readiescards and I have both installed the IVT units which are rebadged Mitsubishi heat pumps. They come with no controls at all and are pretty binary in operation in that they just dump heat like a boiler does into the circuit. There are connections on the board for the Mitsubishi controller but I’m not sure anyone has ever tried as the correct controller is around £400. Most heatpumps can be put into either an S Plan, W Plan or Y Plan config without too much hassle. They need a call for heat and a set temperature. I have configured this by setting the bottom stat on the DHW to 45c, and the stat on the UFH buffer to 35c. Hit either of these and the ASHP stops. This means in “heating” mode it may well cycle but it’s not that bad tbh. It’s a straight factor of power output tbh - that rise needs around 10.5kw of heat and it’s a 9kw ASHP so given it was 8c outside I’d expect it to be able to go flat out with no de-icing and 70 mins or so would be the target. I do need to find some cheap clip on pipe stats though - anyone got a decent source..?

You can calculate this pretty easily but from observation currently, I’ve got a 300 litre tank going from 15-45c (bottom stat is about 25% up the tank) and it’s doing that in a little over an hour.

Not required until early 90’s... Yep... and could use a backdrop and cut into the pipe at the bottom. @Danny68 is it a live drain ..? Assuming it has flow from somewhere else ..? If it’s definitely a foul drain then 6ft down is an easy job to do - connect before the manhole. Technically it should have a restrictor set on it - has it got a cast lid ..?

LTP is good but expensive. Try using the HG stuff - you can get it in Matt or Gloss - and it’s much cheaper and just as good.

Reisser from Howdens when they are on 2 for 1. Or Toolstation when they aren’t ..!

From what I understand they use less fines and more regular sized gravel in the mix so it doesn’t lock together as tightly

So @Big Jimbo is your road going to be adopted or is it your own ..? Planings or scalpings cannot be used as hardcore for an adoptable highway due to the potential for inclusion of contaminants hence why the contractor may say this. Putting a scalpings base down is pretty easy though but you need a decent roller. Double drum Bomag is ideal, it seriously compacts the lumps and if done on a warm day you will also get some tar binding. The downside is it’s not that permeable so you need to lay it with a fall as otherwise you will get puddles and it will start to break up when it gets cold.

Just remember that wide gates need big posts and deep ones too.. I would use a pair of 6ft gates and a 2ft 6” pedestrian gate and use metal posts - you’ll still need 7ft galvanized posts but they would be fine.

Is there a matching crack inside ..?? Get hold of the claim registration number for the warranty provider and start the claim now. Don’t wait to register it. They will send the surveyor - if you don’t like the answer you get then you get your own but no point in paying if you don’t have to. Have you planted any trees nearby..??

Got a picture ...?? Wunda sell their own brand so wondering why the plumber didn’t use those.

@readiescards were these supplied by Wunda..?

Its an 87.5 degree short radius bend. There red are no real 90 degree bends anyway - all are 87.5 which means when you stack a pair you end up with a natural 5 degree fall on the soil running away from the vertical face as in @willbish picture. If you want less than 5 degrees (or 1:12 which is quite steep) then cranking the bends away from the vertical plane gives you some leeway to make the angle more shallow.

Are you sure ..? The Kappa comes with an 82cm frame for a wall hung too and is only about £40 more than the cistern alone. It would make it easier to fit a pan at a later date as the outlet pipe is locked into the wall https://www.fountaindirect.co.uk/geberit-duofix-wc-frame-82cm-prewall-111-260-00-1.html

Don’t use two 90s - get a Geberit frame and they come with a 90 degree one that you can get to drop within 80mm of the frame itself. Then into a 90 and back under the floor. Just done one like this and works perfectly.