PeterW

I’ve done similar and even buried the metal framed IBCs but not for 10 cubic metres of storage. I think a pair of septic tanks would be quicker.

So the dedicated rainwater tanks will be expensive and I’m assuming you just want the 10,000 litres on standby so as cheap as possible ..? Does it have to be hooked up to anything or are they ok to drop a hose in to pump it dry..? If so - cheap as chips globe septic tank will do it. Clearwater Alpha is the type of thing you could use, change of £700 and you would need two, you could just pipe inlet to outlet to fill it and then it is done. I’d fill it from the mains then leave it alone so you’re not filtering crap out on the filler side from rainwater. Rainwater tank systems come in two flavours and you’ll need to decide if you want a pump in tank system or a separate pump. Tanks Direct do the flat type I linked to earlier but if it was me and I had space, I would just use another one of the septic tanks and put a cheap submersible pump in it as you have easy access to service the pump.

So for a small building, your 100mm concrete is fine if it’s timber framed. The issue is the insulation and as what @Russell griffiths says, it is not fully insulating the floor. I would keep the insulation for now, cast the slab 50mm lower (ie without the insulation) and then double up the sole plate with a second 50mm tanalised beam and drop the insulation inside this. It won’t be “warm” floor but it will at least insulate the whole internal floor.

Depends what the building structure is.? How wide are the edges ..?

Can't be used in the UK, has no WRAS certification and also would need a lot of dedicated pipework to make it work. And I bet its expensive...!!

Have used these guys and a really prompt / efficient service https://www.asbestosservices.com/asbestos-testing-service

Depends on the cistern in use Usual minimum is 112mm but I would suggest a 147/150mm Stud so you can also get some insulation in there too.

If it’s only storage then these will do it as they take 280kg per bracket Continuous loading https://www.metrofixings.co.uk/main/maincat/getCatitem/Light Joist Hangers LUP /1943/0/0/1

Couple of bits of scrap timber screwed and plugged to the wall, rest the pre-drilled beam on them and level. Drill through the holes with a bit with a marker tag on it, inject the resin, tap the stud in and twist it to get a good bond. Washer and nut and do the next one. Use the stronger hangers with a pre-bent top and the Locator tags then board over the top. The long ones need you to wrap them over and you can’t do that with a rim beam.

6x2 I would use resin studs at 600mm centres spaced alternate 50mm from the top and bottom of the beam and use top hung hangers. Resin is much better as @Russell griffiths says as it fills the holes. Put them in - drill 3/4 way through the blocks - and don’t be tempted to nip them up til the next day.

Clear CT1 pumped into the holes.

Turn the main tee round and send the spur off to the garage leg. Run a straight run to the house, no breaks and no restrictions. Water pressure drops when you put Tee's in the way you have at the boundary. I'd also only put a stop tap at the house where it is accessible, and not the underground ones you have shown.

Hmmm where did you find that picture as a backdrop really should use a rest bend !! 2m drop over 8m is a 1:25 slope - that isn't too unreasonable although i can't see the entry point into the treatment plant..? does it change direction to get into the tank itself as that will be your "slowest" point in the flow.

@AnonymousBosch pretty sure I told you to not walk underneath and to wear a hat !!

Yep I use them too...! £1.50 from Halfords from memory

Everyone normally uses squeezy bottles - how many boards have you got to do as I did about 80sqm with 4 bottles from memory. It isn't cheap so don't buy too much as it does go off in the bottle.

Caberdeck is P5 graded already - it is waterproof/moisture resistant so nothing else is needed.

Perimeter noggins and Z Clips..? They will still twist and move - only 2 nails in a Z Clip and you're not going to nog all the bottom chords as you fit them though.

Use a bit of 3x2 sprag nailed to the ends of the joists to keep them square and straight as they will move when you are boarding otherwise. With only a 100mm bearing end you can soon knock them out of line and a fall becomes very easy. They will also move when you drag boards over them.

Are the brickies staying on site to block in the ends as you do the joists or going back after..? Don't forget the Tony Tray...

Ignore that ..!! That’s a very mucky switch ..!! And the wire goes round it..! Need to look better next time ..!

That’s a bell transformer ..! Pull the fuse above and detach the transformer and job done.

Wall vents low down may be more preferable - I think @Jeremy Harris used something similar on his build ..? You can turn the pipe work 90 degrees and bring up through the sole plate of the stud wall and then into the vent. Back to back vents or at least in the same wall section may reduce penetrations in the walls or even consider making a stud wall 200mm thick so you can also use as a service void.

Don’t ..?? Straight run from A to B, with a 45 bend before you get to B What are you doing to keep leaves and crud out of the soak away system ..?? I’ve used these then into a P trap, then into the run with a T fitting.

Ok so 6x10 is pretty small so let’s go from there. To strip the roof retaining the tiles will be about £1500 assuming you’ve got scaffold already. New Collar trusses at 400 centres (26 of them) would be no more than £100 each. Fitting would be about £1000 all in once you factor in a new wall plate. Re-roof should be about £35/sqm inc breather membrane and battens, measured flat. £2500 So that is about £7,500 to re-roof it. Using a collar truss means you only need to use PIR in the sloping cheeks, the rest can be cheap loft roll. I wouldn’t go more than 2600mm with the collar (ie 500mm higher than now) as otherwise it will start to feel like a church and be a bugger to keep warm. 120mm PIR in the cheeks, 400mm fibre on the flat sections, vapour membrane and then board and skim. You could also “fake” the beams with an overlay on every other rafter with something like a rough sawn oak 4x2 to give you a rustic feel but that’s up to you. Floors - straight over the top (assuming it’s “flat” with 25mm of EPS75 polystyrene, DPC then 100mm of PIR. 22mm Caberdeck laid as a floating floor glued at all joints. Walls - bin the sheep’s wool as it’s appalling for uValue and is for people who can afford to lose space, you can’t. Get the builder to site build some 140mm thick stud walls, line the backs with 9mm OSB and then lift into place, leave a 25mm gap to the bricks. Fill them with 140mm Frametherm 35, Vapour barrier then board and skim. Internal walls - build them off a double sole plate of 6x2 sat on DPC on the floor so you have a solid base, shot fired steel brackets either side if you want it really solid. Will they allow you any conservation roof lights or similar ..?