PeterW

CT1 - Or lots of good quality silicone, not your cheapo Wilko stuff

Was all done using a full kwikstage platform built in the room, basically from wall to wall. The sides of the chimney breast were a challenge but they were extended out using side extensions on the scaffold and a double layer of boards. This was when it was being taken down.

That is actually counter intuitive - put too many screws in a plasterboard and it will fracture along the line. @wozza there are a few more ... This is the ceiling between two curved sections and a wall... And a 5.3m vaulted ceiling When it was finished it was nicknamed the chapel of St Andrew the Plasterer .. Pretty lucky that he is a perfectionist and also very reasonably priced too ..!! We had to do very little prep for paint on this - probably saved 3-4 days labour.

That is not representative who is skimming upstairs..? Ask them for a quote to do downstairs too

If you are skimming you do not need jointing or tape - the skim goes over it all

Curves can look good but they need to be built up with bonding first and then skimmed to look right. Did a big room in roof conversion a year or so back and this was the en-suite ceiling junction

That is fine - crack on

Are you sure the PP is not for the first 3 or 5 metres to be surface bound..? That is normally the requirement. It is to stop any loose surface material spreading onto the road surface outside the driveway. Tarmac or resin bound gravel would be your next cheapest

Try MPC Services in Heanor for the treatment tank. Not much you need a consultant for tbh - water flows down hill, and it need to go somewhere ... shouldn’t be difficult to DIY.

Now that is pretty..!

.... but not too deep !! 2 - 3 ft at most and use a seated trolley, also look at low ramps (8-10" high) using floor sockets to stop them moving. Mate has a really nice low lift single post lift - only goes up about 2ft 6" at most and is ideal for classics

Was suggesting a swimming pool instead of a tank - volume at that point becomes irrelevant

Cheap pond liner.

@Mandana have you considered having a swimming pool ..???

How big are the liners / apertures..? If they aren't built yet, you can always close off if you want width with block on flat but the vermiculite will be cheaper. Mixed 8:1 with cement and a sprinkle of water and loaded in as they go.

50mm between the joist and the chimney breast sounds a bit better but that is still a lot.

50mm is wrong - it’s 10mm Where has 50mm come from @epsilonGreedy..??

I've seen more in the market this week - think it is starting to move now. All the merchants are open again so it should soon unblock

Use the spare D4 glue. There is no mandatory gap either - it is an expansion gap but TBH any expansion will crush the D4. The boards are 60 day water resistant through the core.

This stuff is fine - non toxic https://www.bes.co.uk/drain-tracing-dye-200g-yellow-3591

Seriously you’re overthinking this ..!!! It’s absolutely fine, just let them get the blocks down. There is nothing wrong with that lot and it’s not going to go anywhere.

SEng is correct - the 100x150 isn’t deep enough for that span to not bend in the middle - 195mm is barely good enough but assume he’s got you bolting them together ..??

Yeh they are a spring and a piston - looks like the cap of the piston

Could be the ball off the DCV but never seen one do that tbh ..!

Is there a non-return valve anywhere in the system ..??? And my guess is the blue butterfly valve swivel ball..