PeterW

Not a chance !! Basements require planning as they are an engineering activity. They also require escape windows / wells which show up on plans anyway.

Buy the proper Paslode nails and crack on - they won’t move ..!! Good news is with a SIP roof is that you can nail at 300 centres as you have no rafters to aim for with the counterbattens..! Plenty of online vendors to get the cheapest price.

Ok so the inlet and outlet are 175/225 respectively on the tank according to the MIs You now have 175 and 160 - so basically you have a tank 65mm too high at one end so it’s close on 2 degrees out of level. Water doesn’t flow up hill .... This also means you have the potential for the weir and baffles internally not to work, so you have a non working septic tank. Irrespective of who is at fault or how hard it is going to be, I would take that out and start again. Looking at the waste filter system it is connected to the outlet internally - you can’t just hack a hole in the tank and expect it all to drop to a lower level.

Ok so this may cause you an issue from the MIs Comes complete with an integrated outlet filter system for increased solids removal and soakaway protection, extending the life of the soakaway. I think you need to dig it out. Sorry.

Which model tank is it ..?

Cheapest flat white door you can get that doesn’t feel flimsy is a standard FD30 ply panel fire door. Get the chippy to knock them into the holes then take them out and lay flat and give them a sand over, two coats of decent undercoat and then two top coats using a roller. The downside is that it will look industrial and show marks etc. Have a look at the Howdens doors catalogue

But your issue as I said was the window positioning here means for the roof to be useable you need to look at how the trusses are built up. Also moving the floors down means the windows go up in relation to your floor levels that can cause problems with the windows being too high for use as means of escape. Why can you not just apply for what you want and compromise if it doesn’t look likely to get passed ..?? Moving windows downward in a principle elevation is not a non material amendment ..!!

What is the footprint of the build and maximum open span area..? You can get to 265mm floor heights at a push, but you need max 4.8m spans on the joists. No issue with them running opposite directions though. Angle of the roof will affect its relative depth - from DPC you could get 2650 / 280 / 2250 / 280 / 2250 / 540 which allows for a 350mm warm roof build up but would need to be PIR. The issue you would have is the way those windows are drawn, you would need to have skeilings in the first floor rooms and that would need very strong attic trusses as the tails would be holding the weight of the attic room.

OK so first off, that is a cover over the edge of the rubber roof - you need to take the deck board up, check the board hasn't damaged the rubber too, and take the trim off. Once you have done that, make sure the rubber roof is firmly bonded to the bricks. There are various products you can use for this, Sikaflex EBT+ is as good as the rest and you need a decent bead of it behind the top edge of the membrane so any water that gets behind the flashing cannot get through. Then refit the plastic cover. Rake out the joint and brush it clean, then a good thick bead of lead sealant or EBT+ into the gap and push the trim in. Wedge it downward and then point the gap between the wedges with more sealant and finish it flush. Leave it to dry, pull out the wedges and point the gaps. Leave it 24 hours before you try a water test !

Standard self build insurance will cover it - as would an empty building policy. Agricultural Insurance is unlikely to as you are not carrying on with using for farming etc. Try GSI or NFU.

base coat of bonding plaster up to 10mm thick. Let it dry and add another. Then skim / texture a top coat over the top.

Is that a plastic trim over the top of the rubber membrane ..? Doesn’t look like it is fitted correctly, and should have sealant not mortar over the top as it will expand and contract and let water through. In terms of following the cracks in the boards, water will just flow along these as they are slightly lower than the board itself. Need to find the point of entry first.

In future, best way is run all in 22mm and then reduce right at the taps. 3/4 to 1/2 hexagon reducers are pennies.

It’s not the pipework, it is those lever valves you’ve installed - they have very restrictive flow rates. 15mm into a bath tap for that short distance is fine but you want full bore flexi hoses for the connection.

If you can divert it to the soakaway it is better - stops anyone pouring buckets with rubbish/dirty water/chemicals down the channel. Also worth adding closed gullies to all of your downpipes

ACO or linear drains at ground level - especially where vehicles are present such as driveways and garages - can introduce hydrocarbon contamination into the rainwater tanks

How do you know those boards aren't glued to the joists below..?? That is what stops creaking, not just the boards glued together. You could fix that board join issue using a liquid glue run into the joints but if they aren't glued to the joists then there is a bigger issue to resolve.

you may struggle to get these as single units - I have..! Seem to come as sets of 3 or 5 on a single driver. I’ve found the flat panel LEDs better for dimming and they don’t flicker.

Ask him, as I haven’t heard of it unless it’s a typo..? What are the other stage payments ..?

They will be packed the same way as all bricks - open stack for lifting and heavy shrink wrapped. You won’t be getting any special wrapping or treatment. There will be broken ones in some of the packs but there will be a handful. That’s acceptable. Just check the packs look “square” and there are no obviously misformed packs. 26 packs is a lot of bricks to have on site at once - where are they being stored and are you assuming the offload will be direct to where they are being stored as that’s a 40 foot artic load. Who has the responsibility for offload ..? Don’t stack them more than 2 packs high or 2 packs deep, and make sure any on top are secure before you let him move off.

Check the MIs for the ASHP - some need it on the return not the flow for some reason .!!

No it needs a bypass valve.

Take the battens out over each other or use a double batten then get the joiner to notch out a 44x44 by 20mm on the inside edge with a table saw. Will leave you an L Angle that will cover the corner batten then butt the cladding up to it.

So you need a bypass somewhere here after the pump and before the UFH manifold. If all the zone valves shut you will get a closed circuit and no flow.

Only thing I would potentially add is a buffer and then just put the immersion(s) as a backup in the buffer tank itself.