Pocster

Looks good too me 👍

It’s a good answer !

Have to ask … why the ‘wall’ for the toilet ? . Removing that would make the room feel bigger .

Fair enough . I considered things like this and was concerned of water in the floor . You could get a shower cubicle in there if you preferred ? Also ( as my SE told me ) . SE’s do the real work , architects just draw pretty pictures 😁

Thanks @Thorfun for the heads up . After shower - floor wet if you wish to use the toilet 🙄

Look @Thorfun ; you must listen too me at some point ! Actuators are about 30 quid each Wiring loom box 100 quid zigbee relay 8 quid zigbee multi sensor 20 quid HA system as expensive or cheap as you want . chuck loxone in the bin - it costs more than 25 quid

No idea . With any HA there probably is a loxone plug in . Personally I go for cheap replaceable stuff . What’s good today will be shite / obsolete / unworkable tomorrow. Personal opinion of course . X10 ? , Sonos ? , Logitech squeezebox ? , msx 🤣

Zigbee dimmer 8 quid from land of the rising sun . Just saying ….

Hmmmmmm Now then ! I used a recommend installer on here to setup my manifold with uvc etc . They said no blending required as that would be for different requirements e.g ufh and radiators . That statement will cause blood to boil ! Anyway ! If you stick self regulating actuators on those valves the delta is 7 degrees I believe . I have these . Linked to a simple off the shelf control box then through z wave / zigbee switches . Controlled via HA with multi sensors in each ceiling . Contrary to what people think … SWMBO requires bathroom to be hotter than bedroom . Mistress requires her bedroom to be cooler . So whilst ‘ multi zone pointless - heat it as one ‘ - you can satisfy everyone ; and I’m not just on about the heating 😉

Yeah yeah - we will see 😎

I’ve done both methods - I think I prefer timber . Metal was ok ; as others have said every piece is dead straight . Always feels a bit rattley . Sometimes I bolt the steel to the wall and then osb it for a ( perceived ) better fixing . Timber more sturdy imho ( appreciate if you install metal all the time you might disagree ). Speed wise ; I’m slow on either ! Also with timber ; off cuts I find a use for . Metal less so . For walls ! - ceilings - metal if you can 👍 ( not a dig at @Thorfun )

Ok . Looks like the frame sits on or in whatever you want . Certainly worth a punt for 35 quid - cheers 👍

Earplugs

Guess I’d better go to a BM and look

Yeah but doesn’t the frame sit in the chamber ?

Lid in . It’s too low .

I know . But they sit ‘in’ the chamber . I want the lid to sit ‘on’ the decking . So I kind of want recessed but supported off the decking rather than the chamber extension . Probably not explaining that very well 🤣

This type of thing ? https://pipetek.co.uk/products/a15-iron-cover-frame?variant=31311628107894 Looks like it sits ‘proud ‘ ; I assume something flush was better …

Bit of an engineering project just doing the decking . The access chamber is below the finished decking level . Rather than attempt to get it mm perfect I went looking for a hatch that perhaps has a flange , I.e sits on the surrounding decking rather than in it . Couldn’t find anything … ; does it even exist ?

That’s not fair on the gold (brown) fish . It needs a fighting chance .

Must admit I was confused by this . If I do a 💩 - does it hit the gold fish ?

Yeah . I’ll fill the web space for me . Gripfill timbers in ( done that before - rock solid ) . Bit of tile backer board on face - then a few tiles . At the moment I don’t want to do it because ( in another thread ) I want to make sure stair company fix directly to the steel .

Brushed sbr on the exposed gaps . Chucked a bit in the cement mix , also added some fibres . Looks fine - no chance of slumping . Doesn’t need to be perfect . This area is where the staircase apron will fit and associated balustrade

@Thorfun you’d better not be trying to save 4 quid by using the same blade you’ve had for 15 years !

Care = false if (Care) then do_something(); else do_feck_off();