Thorfun

agree with @dpmiller and @Russell griffiths. we're simply copying what a lot of the major TF manufacturers do in the factory. here's the MBC example. https://www.mbctimberframe.co.uk/closed-panel-wall-options/

50mm of PIR will reduce U-values substantially without taking up an extra 50mm of room size.

Only 2h45m according to Maps! ? Yeah, I get that and I appreciate your input. It’s still on the cards for us but I will definitely do more research.

indeed and we are having a combination of normal larch and charred larch. my curiosity was more to the longevity of the charring of Larch compared to the results of the charred Spruce in the article that was posted.

I didn't read that article in detail but it is about Spruce. we're looking at Larch. I wonder how that differs? if I can find the time I'll read the article thoroughly to see if something is in there about other types of wood.

I don’t see the issue with the windows being tilt and turn. Don’t they attach to the internal frame? So shouldn’t impair the window tilting or turning. ?

did manage to find this photo though. Excuse the washing!! ?

Ours were in the kitchen/diner so we weren’t worried about blackout. Ours were a lime green colour but also came in different colours. it was a number of years ago but if I can find the old receipt I’ll see if I can find out the manufacturer. no promises though!

Cheers. We got a quote and samples from https://shousugiban.co.uk and quality seems good. But trying to find other decent sources to get quality and price alternatives.

Fair enough! Back to your original post. We had the Intu type in our last house and they worked well.

I know it might be a bit late and they’re more expensive but can you/have you thought about external blinds?

we're also planning on using this. where did you get your samples from?

Thanks and could be useful. But then raises the question as to how do you know what lap length do you need?

May I just ask how folks chose the size of slates to go for once a brand, colour and texture had been chosen? I’ve just started looking at slates and there are so many choices and sizes I don’t know where to start (I am about to read the roofing sub-forum though, so I guess I do know where to start!) ?‍♂️

That’s a very good price and I think you were lucky to get them at that price. I bought from this guy who delivered them for me. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heras-Style-Security-Mesh-Fencing-Panel-Construction-Grade-Block-feet-Clip/233836089800?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I test drove this when I was looking at the iPace. it's a nice car and very Audi, but it was just a bit plain whereas the iPace was a bit more 'exciting'. in the end I made the wrong choice although I did end up with a 3.9s 0-60 car for a lot less than either the Jag or Audi.

ironically I got rid of an iPace for a Tesla Model 3. I found the JLR software to be clunky and slow with boot times of stupid proportions, the OTA updates didn't work and so it was back and forth to the service centre for software updates and the matrix headlights I ordered didn't work from day one. despite 3 months of JLR trying to fix them they couldn't (involving many condescending conversations with their 'technicians' asking if I'd turned it on properly and then saying 'the headlights work fine' when taking it for a test drive in the day time!) I'd had enough and gave the car back for a full refund and went and got a model 3 and saved nearly £35k. now if I have a problem the remote ranger comes to my house to fix the car, the software is fast and responsive and, contrary to Jeremy's post I find the wipers work ok and if not then a quick click on the button on the stalk clears the window and they can always be set by voice command if required. Also, I had a Porsche Panamera previously and that had many false alarms when going round bends on narrow roads so to just label the Model 3 with the 'false alarm scary braking' label is a bit harsh as I find that a lot of cars have this false alarm issue. horses for courses as they say but I will never buy another JLR.

we wanted to have cantilevers in our garden room so that one corner could be completely open but it wasn't possible without great expense. so we put a pole in instead. sometimes things just have to be compromised on.

sorry to say but I think it looks like a block of flats. I agree with @the_r_sole and for something like this you would be best to get an architect involved. obviously, it would cost quite a bit of money and your budget (from the other thread) does seem woefully low but it could be an amazing property. good luck with it all.

yeah. makes sense. what's the worst that can happen?

thanks. so, I think that works for me. I can lay the sub-base and then scrape it off and store it, dig the trenches and then reapply. it is a lot of sub-base but it means that I won't have to throw anything away and all it costs me is time to scrape off and put back. I think I'm ok with that! I want to have a hardstanding for the build so this seems like my best option.

is anyone able to assist here and let me know if this is ok to do? otherwise I'll just make an assumption that it's fine and deal with the consequences at a later date! ?

yeah, ICF is a lot simpler and it was a close decision for us between the two but even though the price difference was slightly in the favour of ICF our chosen Groundworker was more comfortable with RC so we decided to go with what he knew best. but, like I say, not a lot in it and obviously you can put the ICF on the insulated slab.

with the insulated slab you don't get any cold bridges at all and no need to worry about those Marmox blocks. just seems logical to me! we're also having the same insulated slab foundations for our non-basement structures. may not be as economical as other ways (even though I've not done a price comparison) but I just like the concept of it. from the moment I saw the insulated slab it just made sense and I had to have one. ?

we're having a full basement but are going for an insulated slab underneath rather than how yourself and @Moonshine are doing it. mine is the same way that @Bitpipe did his. here's our SE drawings based on a Kore insulated slab system no point using EPS300 on the vertical for insulation though as you don't need that compressive strength. EPS100 or EPS70 should do but you'll need to get the confirmed by your structural engineer.