JFDIY

Only reason would be if the heatmiser ones are a funny voltage? The auto balancing ones are available in 24v and 230v versions. So the question is really can you remove one of your existing and see any information relating to the voltage. Or if you have equipment and are competent open up the control centre see if there are any clues, if not turn the heating demand on to a zone and probe the wires going to that zone, start with expecting 230v AC then if no sensible output look for 50v and finally 24v which might be DC.

Think I'd turn it off for half an hour or more, if it faulted on the original 5 minute interlude it perhaps would benefit for longer

Think to 50mm stuff is for a second floor, where you're not mega fussed if some of the heat escapes downward into other heated rooms.

What is the normal practice for putting the bottom of a staircase onto an insulation/screed floor? Floor make-up is probably going to be 150mm insulation and 60mm of liquid screed with ufh pipes. No idea on staircase yet, might be softwood or all out solid oak sleeper treads and stringers if I get round to it. At this point the shape and therefore starting point of the staircase is not determined, could be a straight flight or a turn through 90 degrees at the bottom Do I * Land it on the screed and assume it's strong enough? - anyone got experience or previous on the normal practice? *build concrete blocks from sub floor to land it on, knowing if wrong it mucks up the finished floor with a discontinued surface and thermal bridge. * Put large diameter threaded bar upstands from sub-floor to use as pillars, if not needed can be chopped off and tiled over later on?

Been thinking about this, the actuators can't 'make' temperature so if you left the return thermocouple off completely then you would at best achieve zero difference between supply and return. So if you wanted to aim for less than the quoted 7 degrees delta (on systems running above 30 degrees C), then you could add insulative material on the return probe to tune the delta to a lower figure by 'hiding' the real temperature.

As above, based on recommendations on this site I bought a set to fit onto my 10year old ufh system, needed to crimp the clips that hold the thermocouples though as mine is on 14mm plastic pipe. Also had to slacken the pump connections and rotate the lower manifold forwards to crate a little extra room as they're a touch bigger than the ones originally fitted. Before I was running in excess of 15degrees difference between flow and return because I'd only ever set the flows to the suppliers minimum rates and never optimised it. Was also running a higher supply temp than I am now. Since fitting these they hold a steady 7 degrees or so. Floors seem to have more warmth. Only downside is very slightly more noise, because the flow meters (on supply side of manifold) seem able to throttle the flow fairly quietly when used, they are redundant now do wide open, but the valves on the return side of the manifold seem to create a little more noise when throttling towards lower flows. They save a lot of time commissioning and as mentioned by @Nickfromwales if heating a cold floor open full flow to start with until they see a rise in return temp then self balance, so the floor warms up quicker.

Full length timber wall plate will make fitting the joist hangers easy. I'm a devil for looking for the over engineered way, have to think like a builder, what is least effort/quickest?......

The key is the 'upto' statement, so up to 1:1 with water depending on desired colour. You can always lay the bricks in uncoloured mortar then rake the joints out and point up with coloured at the end or another day to use less.

Put it back the same way for now, it's been fine so far?

Cover the brick faces with DPM then bank soil around it, got to be cheapest way I'd think, assuming you can dig enough from the surrounding area without causing a mess.

If it's got compression fittings on the back then you can undo them and screw a compression blank onto the original nut and olive, or even fit isolator valves to the same nut etc.

You could put a scaffold clamp on the tube good and tight before casting the concrete around it.

A few years ago I was advised to apply for more than you want/need, if you get it great you can then worry how to pay for it or submit an amendment to scale it back to what you wanted to start with. If it is rejected scale it back to what you wanted. No point only asking for what you want then having to compromise from the start

Picking and choosing definatly has merits, as does a bit of DIY creativity, just made a few 100mm vertical terminal housings for about £2.50 each, mainly because it was something I couldn't get easily ( @joe90 would be proud...). While a duct radius of 150mm might be quoted by blauberg, it'd kink in the corrugations I'd think - but not collapse, I've used it and have a load of off-cuts if you want me to post you a metre?

Can't remember what I said my profession was, I needed a VAT number (used my parents farm), but to be honest I don't think you need much to get an account, I had managed to download the trade catalogue somehow before settling up the account so knew most of the prices beforehand. Just had another look the price lists are linked in the start of the attached Link

As far as I'm aware there nothing to stop you having a beanch off in semi-rigid to the one room if that makes it easier to design? I've just used blauberg components on my DIY design/install, they do a restrictor for inside the radial manifolds. Also the manifolds appear to be the same as the quiet vent ones. But about 20% cheaper than BPC once you set up a direct account, pipe is cheaper too.

I'm just looking through similar filtered vents, so far the only ones I've found are here; flush and retrofit Square and round surface mount Not sure on the ones in Lizzie's photos above are, guessing might be similar to the lower link. I'd be interested to know if others have any other options Also found some nuaire filtered vents with internal cone filter, but need quite tall space in plenum for them. Nuaire vent

Half a day stopped to get you and builder re-aligned will be better than all the heartache and future problems you think are being built in, and you never know you might actually get built what you want, rather than what someone else thinks you want.

Stop the job, have it out with builder, don't pay until satisfied, foolish to continue as you are, I'm getting stressed on your behalf. Honestly you need to take control.

Can you move the boiler flu instead?

As above, depends on value of her estate, any siblings that might contest things later on etc. I think they can chase you for 7 years after the gift at 40% of value on a sliding scale between years 3 and 7. Personally I'd want to pay something even if not market value.

Call them up and ask who they supply the product to in your area. I've had to do the same a few times with (other suppliers of ) things I've wanted to get hold of locally

You might need to talk to the supplier of your controls, but it looks do-able as a retro-fit. I've yet to get into the detail as I'm not that far on yet. See this Wundafloor video as an example

Couldn't you put a floor temp sensor in to limit the vinyl areas surface temp, then run the remainder at a higher temp to heat the room your concerned with now, seems a heck of a compromise to not be able to get into the 20c region when it's still +8c outside

I took loads out recently on joist hangers, I used a thin flat blade screwdriver and hammer between them and plate to get them moving, then a crowbar, just don't pull it all in one go, take several small bites so the nail can unwind as it comes rather than tear the wood.