Onoff

I'm still undecided on the corded, Lidl auto feed screwgun available tomorrow for £30. Not much boarding left to do in the bathroom. By the time I get around to using it on the lounge / diner knock through (sounds simple, it's not) the 3-year guarantee period will be past Maybe I should just buy the Makita 18V LXT one as and when I need it.

There was me thinking the OP was a youngster!

Some good info here ref a 1/2" thick topping using SBR: http://www.kebur.co.uk/product/everbuild-sbr-bond/

I've been quite impressed using SBR instead of water to make a "resinous" mix to infill the slab where I knocked it out to get a feed to a towel rad. Did 5:1 ballast to cement. You don't need much SBR I found. It's as sticky as but finishes ok. One side of the wall it's under the bath and the other in a cupboard in my case.

I like Mason's Mates line holders: http://bricky.com/building-tools/builders-line-anchor/

I'd put dowelled expansion joints in between bays of concrete: http://www.pavingexpert.com/concjnt1.htm

It was brought in by the IMG rep about 20 years ago. (They did some great chemicals). Proper old school he was who'd arrive with coffee and doughnuts for the buyer and whoever was passing in the office. I remember he came in with some disposable plastic cups and poured some of the powder in. Added some water and I seem to remember the ratio wasn't that important. He then had us poke in an M16 bolt threads first. It got hot and had set by the time he left. It just popped out of the cup perfectly smooth. It was called something different then but think it's evolved into Newcrete. Application thickness 0 - 12mm. http://www.img-limited.co.uk/product/new-crete/ Think I've the original tech spec sheet on a drive somewhere.

We used to use a grey powder you mixed with water, it got hot and set rock hard. We used it thin too to repair concrete bearing surfaces that trolleys rolled over. I think it was called Tero Tech or similar it was from IMG I remember.

I love comments like this. I've visions of the manager reading this thread and bollicking the planning officer! Like when people slate their bosses / working conditions on trade forums. I sure "they" must read these forums to try and track down illegal developments etc.

I'd had enough of excavating one room by hand the after breaking up the existing 60mm too high concrete floor; sub base then the "dirt". Think I went down about 400 mm in all then to build it back up by 325mm and I've still got to tile. So I've got 150mm PIR + 25mm EPS. The kicker, is that with hindsight, if I'd have gone down a bit further aiming for 200mm I might have discovered the mains in water pipe, seen the state of it and replaced it earlier. As it is I've had to reroute because when the old iron pipe started leaking I'd already done the floor. Another "with hindsight" I'd have maybe brought the bathroom soil stack internal and then out under the footings which would have made fitting EWI easier in the future. I found when excavting a previous clay soil going out. Tbh I'd have needed it further left in the corner but that was the time to have done it! (Most of these pics were on my old eBuild thread). To give something square to insulate up to / over I cast a bit of a shuttered ring beam over the old rough footings. The DPC you can just see above the breeze block. That incidentally was the old FFL thus we had damp edges. Doing the sand blind and getting that EPS down was pretty satisfying tbh. Felt like things were getting level, clean and tidy. Folding the DPM was a game! And then another milestone to lift the spirits, getting the PIR down: I'd never done anything like this before btw and couldn't / wouldn't without the help on here. To core down now in that far left corner for an internal soil stack wouldn't be impossible now but still a pita.

10 tanks £350. Found some in Mintlaw: https://www.gumtree.com/p/other-miscellaneous-goods/ibc-containers-for-sale-£35-each/1254379277 Surely they would deliver free for 10? Pretty sure the Brain's Trust on here could fathom (little water related pun there ) a method of branched pipework for filling and rapid draw off. How would you stop them freezing?

Could you maybe slip a 3" pipe inside that 4" one to get the fall the right way?

Saw on the other thread that you're progressing with this. Where'd you get the tanks in the end? Any more pics?

The second membrane is simply to separate the foil face of the PIR (Celotex etc) from the concrete as you get a chemical reaction. This membrane is often thinner than the DPM. Good blog here somewhere showing someone putting it down before they had it screeded I think. Link to that anyone? I used A142 mesh btw further to suggestion here. Sorry, "200" what; £, mm?

You'd still have to be super careful surely about puncturing that liner and bugger about with EPS up the sides etc. A bitch to find the leak too whereas with a pond.....

Welcome. They LOVE pictures here! EDIT: Nearly as much as stupid questions. They're very forgiving!

An interesting article: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/11731847/Natural-swimming-ponds-should-you-build-one-in-your-garden.html

This lad has made a jig for use with a Rage 3: Tbh I reckon you'd be better (and quicker) getting your stone cut (for cash ) at a friendly local water jet cutters.

Dunno, maybe my dodgy mix! (Sorry, meant to Hoover the tray but dead handy for sweeping crap into).

You will then need a second membrane between foil face of PIR and concrete. You'll also need to mount the mesh up in the slab a bit on stand offs.

Slippery slope mate! Btw, I'm not sure I'd go with the Polypipe panels again though a doddle to lay pipe with them (and the home made de-coiler): When I knock thru the lounge / diner (and how all on here are looking forward to that ) I may just put a membrane (to separate foil from concrete) atop the foil face of the Celotex (PIR), staple the pipe and concrete. Why, you may ask when the panels make it so easy! Basically for a more solid sounding slab. As Duke Ellington said; If it ain't got that ring etc. The way the Polypipe panels are formed means there are 30mm deep x 90mm dia areas on a 200mm pitch that are "hollows" formed by the panels giving only 70mm cover on a 100mm slab. Maybe I'm doing it a disservice and the ease, as per the video will sway me!

Go on, what's a golden fossil?

If you're REALLY bored / lost the will to live, wade through my 1259 photos here: https://flic.kr/s/aHsk23FYzd When I started I hadn't a clue but with the advice of the collective here I rebuilt my floor in the bathroom. - Clay - Home made Type 1 - hardcore graded thru a 40mm mesh - Sharp sand blind - 25mm EPS - DPM - 150mm Celotex - Polypipe panels - 16mm Pex-Al-Pex - 100mm wet concrete (I forgot the fibres)

Got any pics/details on the splice in the bean? What size was it?

This is that small one the lad I know built for around £1500: "Hi mate, sorry for the late reply. The liner I got from dolphin leisure in Hastings, the underlay from somewhere else, I can't remember and can't find a receipt. The filter equipment was from uk pool store in Maidstone."