Onoff

Easiest way to put this to bed about adding extra "rods"..... You've likely already got extra "rods" in the form of any metal services coming in...which you bond to. Another one won't hurt.

Ta. I'd need to put any flow restrictor in the short run (first pic, my last post) that the outside tap feed saddles over. At the mo the shower is pumped from CWS / HWC. I can carry on then and do the restrictor later. Cheers.

Start here: http://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-matters/16/earthing-questions.cfm?type=pdf EDIT: Link old but good pics, same as in the current AMD3 On Site Guide I have here.....and I can't really scan that!

@Nickfromwales, a long. long time ago I think it was you who said if considering a UVC/TS in the future I might want to upgrade the mains through the house from 15 to 22mm? Getting a mains feed to this Geberit now and I reckon I should start upping the 15mm to 22 at least where I am working at the mo. So the 25mm MDPE comes in the corner of the cloak here: The 22/15/15 T atop the PRedV goes to 15mm up tru the coving: In the loft it comes up thru the p'board, has a bit of a kink: Then runs straight, right to left: So this pipe is now mains in whereas before it was just a feed to the cloak. The ball valve, top left above & below, is now pretty much redundant. To the left of that ball valve, in shadow its looks like this: So it used to be mains coming in from the bathroom below, coming into the tee and going off right to the cloak and carrying straight on up (over the dormer, don't ask) to the rest of the house. This is where the mains came up in the corner of the bathroom next to where it's written 2395 on the wall: My plan WAS simply to cut and whack an elbow on that 15mm pipe coming down and take it across to the Geberit. Thinking now though to replace that whole run in 22mm. Tee off in 15 down to the Geberit and reuse that ball valve for local isolation of the wc in the back of the cupboard. Sound like a plan? That way I've got the start of my 22mm in for the future. At the same time I can strip and clean that PRedV.

I've just had a skim through BS5467 (it takes me away from the bathroom) ref armoured cables and it says specifically that the cable may be laid direct in "free draining soil" or in a duct itself in free draining soil. In a lake its hardly free draining! There was me thinking it's be the one time when laying it in blue MDPE might be the way to go!

This "underwater" thing and a 2-core SWA..... IF the outer sheath got damaged then wouldn't that expose the armoured strands to potentially rapid corrosion as in if submersed?

In true PME the rods can be at different potentials anyway along the run. You can't guarantee ground conditions. At various points it could be very wet, bone dry, frozen and contracted away from the rod etc.

Someone's going to suggest divining in a minute! My escapades finding a leak in an old iron main:

You have 3 BS1361 fuses there on the red/yellow and blue phases incoming. The red and yellow are unused and your current single phase supply is taken off the blue incoming phase. The red and black coming from the meter are the tails. Underwater runs.....out of my depth there..... (I do as an aside know a lad who works for Flag Telecom that specialises in shore transfer stations for undersea stuff).

Would a hose union back plate ever see use in this, a bathroom application? Thinking ready soldered joint, just put a bend in the copper. http://www.screwfix.com/p/hose-union-back-plate-mm/56415

So that connected phase on the incoming 3p feeds what? Existing building?

You want to consider running that 3p all the way to the new house. Much more choice on machinery for your new workshop and you can spread the load of the "substantial" house.

Bored so I bought one. EDIT: Seeing what I can come up with now adaptor wise to make a "Makidl" hybrid with an bare LXT drill! EDIT 2: Been playing with the Lidl screw gun "as is" with a strip of 41mm screws . It's a breeze using it tbh. Lightweight, feels and looks like an older style Bosch with it's green/black colouring and rubberised body. I reckon it'd pass the drop test. Got the obligatory new drill smell but it's not struggling or anything. If I'd have this before I'd have put more screws in I reckon. Second Parkside tool I've got, the corded multi-tool I already have is still in regular use.

More like following in the footsteps of giants! That the "plumbers" and others on here give so freely of their time & experience make the forum what it is. Worth listening as always to others who've been there before!

I stopped mowing ours years ago. No beer holder for one thing. My only involvement is putting the belt back on when she tries to put it in reverse, checking the fuel/oil, pull starting it and giving it the odd jet wash. I must get around to sorting the leccy start. Too tight to buy a new battery! (Westwood 12Hp T1200 btw).

There's a train both ends of the tunnel here!

This might help: http://forum.buildhub.org.uk/ipb/topic/2240-i-hate-grotty-tile-grout/#comment-33931 Edit: I tried using the kid's "moist toilet tissue" the other day for removing excess CT1. Not a patch on baby wipes for the task.

This thread from the other day may assist: http://forum.buildhub.org.uk/ipb/topic/3161-hard-floor-protection/#comment-49288

Wireless charging tech exists now for EVs. Maybe theyll have them built into on road parking spaces.

I'm hoping retro fitting of electric motors into classics will become a thing. A guy in the States has done a 1965 Ford Cortina. A lad in Croatia is working on a MK1 Capri with a hybrid drive train.

I'm still undecided on the corded, Lidl auto feed screwgun available tomorrow for £30. Not much boarding left to do in the bathroom. By the time I get around to using it on the lounge / diner knock through (sounds simple, it's not) the 3-year guarantee period will be past Maybe I should just buy the Makita 18V LXT one as and when I need it.

There was me thinking the OP was a youngster!

Some good info here ref a 1/2" thick topping using SBR: http://www.kebur.co.uk/product/everbuild-sbr-bond/

I've been quite impressed using SBR instead of water to make a "resinous" mix to infill the slab where I knocked it out to get a feed to a towel rad. Did 5:1 ballast to cement. You don't need much SBR I found. It's as sticky as but finishes ok. One side of the wall it's under the bath and the other in a cupboard in my case.

I like Mason's Mates line holders: http://bricky.com/building-tools/builders-line-anchor/