Onoff

I'd put dowelled expansion joints in between bays of concrete: http://www.pavingexpert.com/concjnt1.htm

It was brought in by the IMG rep about 20 years ago. (They did some great chemicals). Proper old school he was who'd arrive with coffee and doughnuts for the buyer and whoever was passing in the office. I remember he came in with some disposable plastic cups and poured some of the powder in. Added some water and I seem to remember the ratio wasn't that important. He then had us poke in an M16 bolt threads first. It got hot and had set by the time he left. It just popped out of the cup perfectly smooth. It was called something different then but think it's evolved into Newcrete. Application thickness 0 - 12mm. http://www.img-limited.co.uk/product/new-crete/ Think I've the original tech spec sheet on a drive somewhere.

We used to use a grey powder you mixed with water, it got hot and set rock hard. We used it thin too to repair concrete bearing surfaces that trolleys rolled over. I think it was called Tero Tech or similar it was from IMG I remember.

I love comments like this. I've visions of the manager reading this thread and bollicking the planning officer! Like when people slate their bosses / working conditions on trade forums. I sure "they" must read these forums to try and track down illegal developments etc.

I'd had enough of excavating one room by hand the after breaking up the existing 60mm too high concrete floor; sub base then the "dirt". Think I went down about 400 mm in all then to build it back up by 325mm and I've still got to tile. So I've got 150mm PIR + 25mm EPS. The kicker, is that with hindsight, if I'd have gone down a bit further aiming for 200mm I might have discovered the mains in water pipe, seen the state of it and replaced it earlier. As it is I've had to reroute because when the old iron pipe started leaking I'd already done the floor. Another "with hindsight" I'd have maybe brought the bathroom soil stack internal and then out under the footings which would have made fitting EWI easier in the future. I found when excavting a previous clay soil going out. Tbh I'd have needed it further left in the corner but that was the time to have done it! (Most of these pics were on my old eBuild thread). To give something square to insulate up to / over I cast a bit of a shuttered ring beam over the old rough footings. The DPC you can just see above the breeze block. That incidentally was the old FFL thus we had damp edges. Doing the sand blind and getting that EPS down was pretty satisfying tbh. Felt like things were getting level, clean and tidy. Folding the DPM was a game! And then another milestone to lift the spirits, getting the PIR down: I'd never done anything like this before btw and couldn't / wouldn't without the help on here. To core down now in that far left corner for an internal soil stack wouldn't be impossible now but still a pita.

10 tanks £350. Found some in Mintlaw: https://www.gumtree.com/p/other-miscellaneous-goods/ibc-containers-for-sale-£35-each/1254379277 Surely they would deliver free for 10? Pretty sure the Brain's Trust on here could fathom (little water related pun there ) a method of branched pipework for filling and rapid draw off. How would you stop them freezing?

Could you maybe slip a 3" pipe inside that 4" one to get the fall the right way?

Saw on the other thread that you're progressing with this. Where'd you get the tanks in the end? Any more pics?

The second membrane is simply to separate the foil face of the PIR (Celotex etc) from the concrete as you get a chemical reaction. This membrane is often thinner than the DPM. Good blog here somewhere showing someone putting it down before they had it screeded I think. Link to that anyone? I used A142 mesh btw further to suggestion here. Sorry, "200" what; £, mm?

You'd still have to be super careful surely about puncturing that liner and bugger about with EPS up the sides etc. A bitch to find the leak too whereas with a pond.....

Welcome. They LOVE pictures here! EDIT: Nearly as much as stupid questions. They're very forgiving!

An interesting article: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/11731847/Natural-swimming-ponds-should-you-build-one-in-your-garden.html

This lad has made a jig for use with a Rage 3: Tbh I reckon you'd be better (and quicker) getting your stone cut (for cash ) at a friendly local water jet cutters.

Dunno, maybe my dodgy mix! (Sorry, meant to Hoover the tray but dead handy for sweeping crap into).

You will then need a second membrane between foil face of PIR and concrete. You'll also need to mount the mesh up in the slab a bit on stand offs.

Slippery slope mate! Btw, I'm not sure I'd go with the Polypipe panels again though a doddle to lay pipe with them (and the home made de-coiler): When I knock thru the lounge / diner (and how all on here are looking forward to that ) I may just put a membrane (to separate foil from concrete) atop the foil face of the Celotex (PIR), staple the pipe and concrete. Why, you may ask when the panels make it so easy! Basically for a more solid sounding slab. As Duke Ellington said; If it ain't got that ring etc. The way the Polypipe panels are formed means there are 30mm deep x 90mm dia areas on a 200mm pitch that are "hollows" formed by the panels giving only 70mm cover on a 100mm slab. Maybe I'm doing it a disservice and the ease, as per the video will sway me!

Go on, what's a golden fossil?

If you're REALLY bored / lost the will to live, wade through my 1259 photos here: https://flic.kr/s/aHsk23FYzd When I started I hadn't a clue but with the advice of the collective here I rebuilt my floor in the bathroom. - Clay - Home made Type 1 - hardcore graded thru a 40mm mesh - Sharp sand blind - 25mm EPS - DPM - 150mm Celotex - Polypipe panels - 16mm Pex-Al-Pex - 100mm wet concrete (I forgot the fibres)

Got any pics/details on the splice in the bean? What size was it?

This is that small one the lad I know built for around £1500: "Hi mate, sorry for the late reply. The liner I got from dolphin leisure in Hastings, the underlay from somewhere else, I can't remember and can't find a receipt. The filter equipment was from uk pool store in Maidstone."

You mean with real WATER? And what, flush into a bucket? @Nickfromwales, to test & without the wc pan on, could I: Insert the flush pipe then run a "U" shaped piece of say 55mm twin wall duct from that into the poo pipe/soil run? Cheers. Before I do that I need to sort the feed out. Couldn't have got it more wrong drilling up into the loft for that 32mm stench take off: Was going to go up where the blue spray foam is showing behind the cut away Celotex. Re-routing it now. Going to go through where is says "752" and up the other side thru the "1255" marked noggin:

I just figured if I'm drawing in "smell", if that bit is sealed I'll only be drawing in from the empty flush pipe down to the pan and via the flush plate. Otherwise I'd be drawing in from the cavity where the frame sits too. That it's drawing in from the flush plate can't be a bad thing as that's right above where the smell's coming from anyway! Tidying up / adding foam. I'll admit I actually used a bit of CARDBOARD up against the frame on the right so the foam didn't encroach. Should all flush off nice and neat. Measurements in green marker from ceiling and walls to ctr of studs so I'll know what's there when it's all covered up. One annoyance I've noted. There's two M8 coach bolts that affix the frame either side. The bottom left, roughly in line with the bottom of the cistern (red 'X') passes right through one of the M10 stud holes. If I put the nut on the screw won't go in, If I put the screw in the nut won't go on! Tbh the screw isn't biting anyway. Thinking to put the screw in then nut up tight against it. That M8 fixing would then be at least captive and in shear??? And lastly, not done one of these before. What do I need to do in the cistern before boarding? Only two hose connections to make isn't it?

Ta. It was this thread I was thinking of where there was talk of sealing things up:

Welcome, it's good 'ere! I've a couple of 1800s terraced cottages. All slate damp courses, suspended timber ground floors, lath & plaster, lime mortar and airbricks! You sometimes have to be sensitive to all that applying "modern" techniques. But this is THE place to ask.

Rev the 32mm take off I'm routing up into the loft in solvent weld..... The "L" shaped bit I've got my hand on, should I be "siliconing" that on as well as the 6 screws. As in to make it as sealed as possible for extracting the wc "fumes"? Lucky I went into the loft as I found this: Mains into the house used to be from the left and this 15mm run was just to the cloak. I moved the incoming mains bringing it up in the cloak so mains feed is right to left now through this pipe / valve . Nothing backing off and a bit of Jet Blue Plus won't sort.