Onoff

I read that with my heart in my mouth! Good end result though.

I have that many plans and projects I will be dead before they're done barring a big Lotto win. I'd like to have enough money to be able to stay at home and do everything I want to myself but above all not to have to compromise. Renew the house roof, knock thru lounge diner, kitchen floor 4" too high, boiler room / conservatory floor even higher, knock down & rebuild stable, convert truss rafter garage roof for storage, redo various drain runs around the house, drop overhead outbuilding cabling into trenches, landscaping, garden room etc. Dunno, had a wobble tonight, multiple family & £££ worries I guess! Not helped by 4 ish hours sleep for the last 4 nights. Kipped on the sofa for a bit just and now clutching a can of cider. I'm doing nothing tonight. I don't know how I missed this last night but it was gone 12 and I can't have been seeing straight! Up at 5 etc. With hindsight! I'll probably just leave it and live with it. Did think about trying to shave a mm off.

Pmsl! Just remembered that! Off to find it now!

Take a break and don't mess up any more. This was the stuff I used but from Travis Perkins. This is a good picture though. The foam is quite dense: https://www.buildingmaterials.co.uk/gyproc-thermaline-plus-insulated-plasterboard.html?

Pucker and then some. I've seen them.

Bet I'm not the only one that zoomed in on that valve looking for the reflection...

Wasn't it British Bathrooms? The place I linked?

My insulated pb was from Travis Perkins.....and it's spot on. No laminating at all. If yours is crap send them a pic and get some more sent. Can't think how I cut mine...18V cordless circular saw I think... Page 11 of this thread I posted up all about foam guns and cleaner. I hear Nick Knowles and his crew do a lot of work in Wales. Realising why now!

How much gap at the back between the 30mm edge and window then? Won't do any harm, a thin line of low expansion foam, make damn sure that's where the boards are going and you might want to mask the window frame with tape knowing what you're like with foam! You shouldn't need to pilot through the insulated pb. Just mark where the screw is going and go for it with the screw using the cordless and that special bit I linked so you don't over drive the screw. Try and keep the screw square as it goes in. You'll have to figure the best torque setting on your cordless by trial and error.

Pictures help massively in trying to understand this.

Sick to the t!ts of this. Looking at, working on it. Would quite happily take a sledge hammer to the lot of it. As you may have guessed I have the serious ar5e. Lots of little things tbh.

Is Welsh your first language?

As I'm getting close to finishing should I be worried that I didn't butter the back of the tiles under the wet room area? I'll obviously be super careful grouting and after grouting use clear CT1 at the wall / floor junction. Are there any grout sealers out there? How will I know if I have a problem? Cheers.

Name a man who doesn't want to hear those words...

His answer will involve tape, CT1 and baby wipes...explained in detail before on here I think? Will try and find the thread.

So you got them in, in landscape mode using the tool I said to buy? All intact?

Take it EASY. If stuck don't panic just post up. Nothing worse that effing up good materials!

Have a practice like I said with the foam on a bit of waste board. It is not as aggressive as the other stuff but doesn't mean you can go nuts with it! It doesn't need much against it that it won't push the board out but rather fill the gap. This is one where you're going to have to do it to get a feel for it. Short of someone standing at your shoulder it's the only way.

I used the one from Wickes and it didn't eat the eps: Two coats, goes on sort of brown and dries black. This pic's misleading as I've actually got dpm behind the battens up the wall by about a metre. That laps / joins with the dpm over the eps.

Soudal Low Expansion foam...all about it: http://www.soudal.com/soudalweb/productDetail.aspx?w=9&p=282&ID=1912

He's going to moan now about who's suggestion to follow...

You're going to have to experiment! The deeper you fill with foam i.e. the more volume in the hole, the longer it takes to set. Temperature etc plays a part too. Squirt a couple of lines on a bit of scrap. First it's as sticky as. Then it forms a skin but is still squishy if you push it with your finger. When set its quite hard. You can give a flick with your finger and it'll sound like a sharp knock. Try cutting your test bit with a saw/kitchen knife. If the blade comes out sticky it's not set! Just do some say 5mm beads on the mortar of the sill spaced a couple of inches apart. Lay the sill atop and weight with a couple of bricks. It's LOW expansion, the weight of the sill and bricks should be heavier that the foam can push up. Pb usually gets delivered flat, maybe on a pallet. If moving yourself then transport it "landscape" with the carrier you bought. Lift the sheet upright from the long side. Have the carrier ready and lift one end up and drop the board in the carrier about mid point along the boards long edge.

A lot of people have copied that idea...

In the cold light of day... Before I laid the last bit last night I dry laid the cut tiles again. Needed to trim 4 or 5 of the cut tiles where I'd lost it a bit as I came across the floor, accumulative error I think they call it! One cut tile had a shell on the factory edge so I replaced that. I meant to swap out one full tile as it had an odd, 1/2" dead straight, white line in it, under the glaze. I forgot and it got stacked in a pile and then laid...right by the door! Noted a couple of not so clever bits where 4 tiles meet. So grouting tonight I guess. Ref grout.....I levelled the tiles off when doing them and the excess adhesive oozed out. As mentioned earlier I then used a 1" paintbrush to clean out the joints / lift the excess out and then ran a sponge down the lines. How deep should the grout lines be before grouting? In some areas they're probably the depth of the tile but in others there's maybe only 3mm from top of tile down to the adhesive bed. Cheers

St/st penny washers and st/st screws if you go the st/st mesh route imo.