Jump to content

Onoff

Members
  • Posts

    21061
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    206

Everything posted by Onoff

  1. Take the screws out gently then and see if everything stays there. Or take 'em out, carefully countersink the pb face and screw back in. Just try that on one or two to start with. Set drill on lowest torque, the screw setting NOT the hammer or drill setting. If it won't drive the screw in go up another notch on the torque setting. Put them just under flush.
  2. @Dreadnaught, @newhome has these she wants shot of:
  3. @newhome, have you still got those plastic gate rack sections you wanted shot of? NEVER throw anything away!
  4. Sorry mate I've had enough. If you can't be bothered to read back from a couple of hours ago then I'm done with this.
  5. Ref finishing the reveal. You'll have presumably the sides and top to do if you're refitting a wood sill. (Only paper I have to hand is the Metro and a Boris Johnson cartoon). Anyway, this thread can't get any more mental: As above you could use plaster beads. Depending on whether you've a tapered edge meeting a square edge, a tapered meeting a taper or two square edges meeting you either fill level or fill and feather it in.
  6. Now you're taking the pi $$. Seriously you have got to be.
  7. I'm tiling it as I said in I think post #782... So.....as I said all of 3 hours ago... "Use the screws to hold the boards in place whilst the foam sticking the boards on sets but only put them in as far as to nip the board and not damage the edge. If you're deft at it you can run a very thin bead of foam up the batten to glue the eps to the the batten. Either take the screws out after or very carefully pilot the pb and countersink the face so you can put a screw in without it breaking the edge".
  8. I told you earlier to just use the screw to just nip the board not break it!
  9. No. You just wait for a couple of hours and see if it's set.
  10. F**k me! How many times? There is no set cure time! I've told you, Peter's told you. It's dependent on temperature, humidity, volume of foam!
  11. You surely don't mean Araldite as in 2-part glue? I would do the bottom bit, the sill first. Easier to work on and gives you a level base. Damp both faces with a plant sprayer. Put some lines of foam on the mortar bed, lay the cut sill bit on and weight down checking for near level. Leave a couple of hours, check it's firm and fit the next bit.
  12. Windage on a metal sheet that size could be an issue..... Based on...roller shutter door...roll top desk...just running through random thoughts...
  13. Cleaning these guns doesn't mean a quick squirt through. Pretty sure the instructions say to put the gun cleaner on and leave for X minutes before blasting through finally. This is more for if you want to thoroughly clean the gun and store without a can on.
  14. After you have used the gun then yes you can leave it upright can still screwed on, with the base of the can on the floor for however long you want within reason. Does the gun still work?
  15. Use the screws to hold the boards in place whilst the foam sticking the boards on sets but only put them in as far as to nip the board and not damage the edge. If you're deft at it you can run a very thin bead of foam up the batten to glue the eps to the the batten. Either take the screws out after or very carefully pilot the pb and countersink the face so you can put a screw in without it breaking the edge.
  16. Once the low expansion foam can is on the gun you leave it on until it is empty. You do not take the foam can off to clean in between uses unless you need to change foam types. You use the gun cleaner with the red nozzle on to clean excess, WET foam from around the nozzle (and anything you might get it on accidentally). You undo the knob screw at the back of the gun to adjust the foam flow rate and squeeze the trigger. When finished for the day you turn the knob to close the valve and clean the end. Put it aside and pick up the next day or next week, month etc. When the can is empty: Have an open plastic bag/bin liner ready. Have the gun cleaner at the ready with the red nozzle on. Unscrew the empty can quickly and put straight in the bin bag. Pick up the gun cleaner and use like an aerosol to spray up inside where the can screws on as some foam will be coming out there. Then screw the gun cleaner into the gun and give a blast thru pointing the nozzle into the bin liner. Remove the gun cleaner and screw on your new can of foam.
  17. Bottom line the pb is different to mine it seems. I would cut that with a craft type knife with the extending blade. Cut through from the eps side and score into the pb. Then snap, fold and cut through the paper on the other side.
  18. After the screws f**ked up the first piece most people would have stopped rather than continue and shag the rest of the materials.
  19. That really isn't compromised. Just fill with the tiniest of squirts of low exp foam if you're worried.
  20. Totally different type of insulated pb to mine by the look of it. That's eps hence crumbly. Mine is pir as per the pics. BUT I can't see what's wrong with that cut edge tbh. I'd show that pic and just that pic of the insulated pb where it's delaminated to the merchant, tell them it's ruined the job and ask for your money back.
  21. Grouting again...maybe tonight but SWMBO and I aren't exactly talking to have the "silver grey vs white" discussion! Is it feasible to mix up a small amount of silver grey grout, put it down then see how it looks? Maybe do an area of white to to see the contrast. If it doesn't get the thumbs up from madam is it easy enough to remove with a sponge and go for the white? And around the edges where the floor tiles meet the wall. They're pretty full of adhesive. I didn't pay too much attention to cleaning them out (maybe I should have), other than making sure the edge wasn't caked. Figured the wall tile adhesive and grout under the bottom wall tile will cover it all up anyway?
  22. @Nickfromwales, excuse the proper fag packet sketch! I'd wrongly maybe, envisaged not having a 3mm grout line between the top of the tile and trim around the pockets, "?" on the sketch. It was deliberate, I just think it looks better. Would clear CT1 do at that interface? Ta.
  23. Onoff

    UFH

    That looks neat.
×
×
  • Create New...